nitram38
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| posted on 28/5/07 at 09:35 AM |
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Tube Rolling
I have come up against my first problem with building project X.
I need 4 curved 1 1/2" round tubes for the chassis.
I tried a test piece on a pipe bender, but although I only need gradual curves, the formers left little dents in the tube.
I need someone fairly local with pipe rollers rather than benders.
Anyone know someone?
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ecosse
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| posted on 28/5/07 at 09:52 AM |
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Why don't you make yourself something like Alan B's tube bender?
It sounds perfect for what what you are planning.
Cheers
Alex
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rayward
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| posted on 28/5/07 at 09:54 AM |
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tightly packing the tube with sand before bending can help prevent the small dents.
Ray
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NS Dev
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| posted on 28/5/07 at 10:26 AM |
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hmmm tricky one!! I don't know of anybody, and you do need rollers to do that really.
Case of ringing round all your local fabrication shops i'm afraid, will be cheap once you find a man that can as it will only take a min or two!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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nitram38
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| posted on 28/5/07 at 10:47 AM |
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I know someone with straight rollers, but I don't think that they have the former groove for 1 1/2"
[Edited on 28/5/2007 by nitram38]
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Hammerhead
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| posted on 28/5/07 at 11:17 AM |
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can't you hand bend them over a large radius?
Seen Jesse James do it with a motorcycle frame on monster garage. Heated the tube and bent it round a mdf former.
Long bar and leverage should do it.
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nitram38
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| posted on 28/5/07 at 11:19 AM |
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It is only 16 gauge to keep the weight down so I think that it will still kink.
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Volvorsport
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| posted on 28/5/07 at 02:14 PM |
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fill it with sand , lots of headers are made this way , they use a ring burner so the heat is distributed evenly around the tube .
www.dbsmotorsport.co.uk
getting dirty under a bus
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Johnmor
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| posted on 28/5/07 at 04:15 PM |
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This
You need one of these, thougt about getting one , only in the US though.
Could get a few interested and import a few!!
Exchange rate is good.
http://www.pro-tools.com/index.html
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Peteff
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| posted on 28/5/07 at 04:50 PM |
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Those benders won't do a long gradual bend which is the effect everyone wants now. When I worked in the steel industry we used to use a machine
for roughly straightening billet for rolling which would have been ideal
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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nitram38
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| posted on 28/5/07 at 05:25 PM |
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I might end up doing the sand filled option with a wooden block former if I can't find a local business.
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nitram38
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| posted on 28/5/07 at 09:12 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Peteff
Those benders won't do a long gradual bend which is the effect everyone wants now. When I worked in the steel industry we used to use a machine
for roughly straightening billet for rolling which would have been ideal
Can't you just say put a couple of degrees, release the pipe, slide it along and repeat the same couple of degree bend to give a gradual bend?
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JoelP
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| posted on 28/5/07 at 09:18 PM |
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i cant imagine it giving a good consistant bend. Have you looks at alans site, at his roller? Seems it might be the best solution is no one has one.
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nitram38
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| posted on 28/5/07 at 09:47 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by JoelP
i cant imagine it giving a good consistant bend. Have you looks at alans site, at his roller? Seems it might be the best solution is no one has one.
Any chance of a link?
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JoelP
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| posted on 28/5/07 at 10:03 PM |
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looks like he doesnt have a build diary for his new project, these are gathered from the site:
 
Description
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=56167&page=1
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=56045&page=1
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Hammerhead
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| posted on 29/5/07 at 09:59 AM |
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Useful Links below
http://www.metalgeek.com/archives/2005/05/01/000047.php
http://www.blindchickenracing.com/Tools/Tube%20Bender/Tubingbender.htm
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Alan B
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| posted on 29/5/07 at 03:14 PM |
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It's important for people to know the difference between rolling and bending.
As Joel has linked below that is my setup for rolling tube for big radius/long sweeping bends. To do smaller/tighter radius bends you really need a
proper bender as shown higher up the thread (just like the one I have).....The two processes really don't overlap in the work that they do and
trying to use the wrong type of tool will almost certainly end up being a bodge.
IMO...
quote:
Originally posted by JoelP
looks like he doesnt have a build diary for his new project, these are gathered from the site:
Description
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=56167&page=1
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=56045&page=1
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nitram38
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| posted on 29/5/07 at 05:25 PM |
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Alan, I have been looking high and low for a bender.
Unfortunately I cannot find a roller type cheap enough.
As an electrician I bend conduit in a former which is tight. I can roll a curve very well without any kinks in the tube.
I am willing to spend around £500 for one if anyone sees one!
I have another option. As an electrician, I use a bender to bend conduits. I think that I should make a pattern in conduit and give it to a company
with the correct machine to copy again in 1 1/2"
[Edited on 29/5/2007 by nitram38]
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Taz Surfleet
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| posted on 30/5/07 at 10:37 AM |
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JZR used to make the long bends in their main rails by placing the steel tube on blocks and standing on them in relevant places. Cant think of
anything more locost !!
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timf
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| posted on 30/5/07 at 11:21 AM |
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home made plans if you send me an email address i can send you some plans too big to upload
[Edited on 30/5/07 by timf]
A prisoner of war is a man who tries to kill you and fails, and then asks you not to kill him."
- Sir Winston S. Churchill, 1952
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nitram38
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| posted on 30/5/07 at 11:29 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by timf
home made plans if you send me an email address i can send you some plans too big to upload
[Edited on 30/5/07 by timf]
u2u sent!
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NS Dev
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| posted on 30/5/07 at 11:34 AM |
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just going to say, if you can find the time, which I know is always tricky, then for a lot less than £500 (prob around £250) you could make a set of
rolls.
Stout pieces of 20mm steel plate, held apart by distance pieces, 3 rolls between them, radiused to suit your tube size, 2 fixed in 4 bolt self-lube
flange bearings and the 3rd roll adjustable on off the shelf self-lube takeup units located in slots milled in the cheekplates, big handle on one of
the roll axles and jobs jobbed. Not a 5 minute lashup as you'll need a machine shop with a big mill to machine the cheekplates, but still a lot
less than £500 and once its done, its done.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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timf
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| posted on 30/5/07 at 11:35 AM |
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another option is to make something like this
make the rollers from birch ply laminated together sandwiched between steel plates, will last to do 4 bends easily .
[Edited on 30/5/07 by timf]
A prisoner of war is a man who tries to kill you and fails, and then asks you not to kill him."
- Sir Winston S. Churchill, 1952
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TheGecko
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| posted on 30/5/07 at 01:07 PM |
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Here's another, taken from this
thread on the LocostUSA forums.
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NS Dev
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| posted on 30/5/07 at 04:33 PM |
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Exactly what I was suggesting, good pics!
Rather than making all the bearing holders etc, just use these for the fixed shafts:
and then mill slots in the (somewhat thicker than in the pics) cheekplates and use these for the adjustable roll:
all these bearings are off the shelf and cheap as chips, and saves making the moving bearing hanger etc, the takeup unit just runs in milled slots
with nuts dropped into the cutouts in the sides.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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