Kriss
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| posted on 16/12/07 at 02:20 PM |
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Idiots guide to Paddle shift
Put my deposit down on an R1 Indy yesterday. However, the paddle shift I thought was straight forward. My impression was:
Right paddle up six gears, left paddle down six gears
However I was prode stupid, wrong and naive!
Whats all this neutral, down into first (which paddle) then p the gears business? As you can all probably tell as yo sit there chuckling away that I
have never experienced a sequental box before.
So, an idiots guide to paddle shifters and if heel toe is needed etc would be great.
secondly, may car is being built with wires rather than rods - any pictures to demonstrate this set up at all???
many thanks, an eager soon to be BEC owner!
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bigrich
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| posted on 16/12/07 at 02:29 PM |
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bike gear boxes are arranged as follows
6
5
4
3
2
neutral
1
so down to 1st from neutral then up through neutral to second etc,etc
you can set up the paddles whichever way fells most comfotable for you
i use a conventional lever which i push forward to 1st then back to go into 2nd,3rd etc
to engage neutral is just a half pull back from 1st
Its probably easier to do than describe
Rich
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A pint for the gent and a white wine/fruit based drink for the lady. Those are the rules
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 16/12/07 at 02:33 PM |
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Bike gears are weird! 
A bike usually has neutral between 1st and 2nd.
So, from start-up, it's
1. Fiddle around until the neutral light comes on.
2. When the engine's started and you're ready to go, push down into 1st (usually a clunk)
3. When you change up, it's straight through neutral into 2nd, and onwards.
When you get to a stop, you have to push down on the selector until you get 1st, then a half-pull upwards to get into neutral again. You might get
neutral from 2nd, if you're really sure of which gear you're in!
It is really easy once you're used to it - but you do have to remember the 'sequential' bit - you can't go straight to neutral
like on a car box, nor can you select any gear of choice - you have to go through them in order.
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nitram38
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| posted on 16/12/07 at 02:34 PM |
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I am not far from you in Mitcham.( 05 R1 engine in non-7 car)
You are right about the gear changes, you put it into 1st one way but then pass through neutral on your way to 2nd etc.
I am going to use a cable shift, but with a trickshifter which cuts the ignition and allows clutchless shifts once you are in 1st. I also have the
auto blip which raises the revs on changing down (say 5th to 4th) and allows clutchless changes without all the heal and toe stuff.
This is beneficial in mid corner gearchanges. (something a car engine would find difficult and have you off the road)
My cable and paddle aren't in yet but you are welcome to take a look once it is.
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matt_claydon
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| posted on 16/12/07 at 02:34 PM |
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As above, but note you don't have to shift up twice to get from first to second. The neutral is 'half way' between first and second
so from first a gentle pull gets you into neutral and a full pull gets you into second.
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 16/12/07 at 07:34 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Dragon-Performance-Eu
Some "proper" race bikes (look at the on-board telemetry Vale's of Yamaha M1 for example) haven't got a neutral/space between
first & second, the neutral on it is all the way up after first when your coming down the box of a race machine.
note: on a proper race bike the shift pattern is
Push the gear lever Down = N-1-2-3-4-5-6
Although I know race bike boxes are generally reversed to make it easier to change gear when fully cranked over into a corner, I always thought the
main reason neutral sits between 1st and 2nd is to prevent you accidentally changing down from 1st into neutral as you come into a corner, which would
remove all engine braking and probably spit you off and Id imagine be equally relevent to a race bike.
I guess if they only use 1st for the starts though, then its less of an issue.
Im not sure the telemetry us normo's would have access to (ie TV footage etc) would show that though would it, unless you have a link?
cheers
Chris
[Edited on 16/12/07 by ChrisGamlin]
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Coose
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| posted on 16/12/07 at 08:44 PM |
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Yes, neutral is generally between 1st and 2nd for the exact reason that Chris has stated. And you'd be surprised at how often 1st is used on a
top-level race bike - they tend to have an aftermarket box where 1st is quite high and useable. On my old '94 TZ250 1st would be used quite a
lot in hairpins etc.
Spin 'er off Well...
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Kriss
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| posted on 17/12/07 at 07:23 PM |
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cheers guys that clears some thoughts up for me.
secondly, I thought that following an unwritten code that up the gears on paddle shift would be right hand paddle and down gears would be left hand
side paddle.
am I wrong or is it personal prefference? I ideally would want up changes on the RHS
kriss
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bigrich
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| posted on 17/12/07 at 08:29 PM |
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if i had a paddle shift thats the way round i would use, feels a more normal way round to me
A pint for the gent and a white wine/fruit based drink for the lady. Those are the rules
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Hellfire
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| posted on 17/12/07 at 08:50 PM |
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Red is positive, black is negative. But move the control cable and you can have it the other way round if you wish.
Phil
[img][/img]
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andyfiggy2002
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| posted on 17/12/07 at 09:12 PM |
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cable v rod
just purchased paddleshift from pathfinder, was thinking of using rod instead of cable as its been said it gives a more positive feel, any comments
would be appreciated
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Kriss
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| posted on 17/12/07 at 09:19 PM |
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asked mine to be right up change left down change! would be so confusing the other way round if i jumped on a playstation lol
think I am getting rod returns and cable up shifts!
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Coose
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| posted on 17/12/07 at 09:28 PM |
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Mine is tuther way round as that's how it went together the easiest. A friend of mine who has a 1960 S2 Lotus/'Blade with a central gear
lever found this very easy to jump in to as he then used just the left paddle - back for up and forward for down - the same as his car.
It's each to their own I s'pose! 
Spin 'er off Well...
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Hellfire
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| posted on 17/12/07 at 09:36 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by andyfiggy2002
just purchased paddleshift from pathfinder, was thinking of using rod instead of cable as its been said it gives a more positive feel, any comments
would be appreciated
Personally, I'd have thought a cable would give a more direct feel because there are only two connections - one on the paddle shift and another
on the gear selector arm. Having said that though, it does require as smooth a radius as possible for the cable to travel freely.
I guess it's down to personal preference and I can see the benefits of both methods.
Phil
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zxrlocost
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| posted on 17/12/07 at 10:24 PM |
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having used both
the cable change is fantastic
rods are still good when done properly
[Edited on 17/12/07 by zxrlocost]
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Crazy Eddie
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| posted on 18/12/07 at 12:11 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Kriss
asked mine to be right up change left down change! would be so confusing the other way round if i jumped on a playstation lol
think I am getting rod returns and cable up shifts!
After feeling a cable shift system at AB Performance I feel that is the way I will be going when the time comes.
The selection felt smoother and more direct and so if nothing else it felt a lot more sympathetic to the gearbox.
Confused about last part of quote; I was under the impression that the cable would be used for both the upshifts and downshifts as the system only
uses one cable. I admit I didn't look at it too much because I was too busy looking at what was being done to my car, but that was my
undertanding
www.EdwardsSchoolOfMotoring.co.uk
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Toady1
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| posted on 18/12/07 at 08:42 AM |
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ill be getting one of AB's cable kits as they are far kinder to the box!
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Coose
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| posted on 18/12/07 at 09:05 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Toady1
ill be getting one of AB's cable kits as they are far kinder to the box!
Eh? How do you work that one out? Rod or cable, all it is doing is operating the selector to turn the selector drum to move the selector forks to slde
the gears on the shafts. Neither is going to be kinder than the other.....
Spin 'er off Well...
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Dangle_kt
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| posted on 18/12/07 at 10:01 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Toady1
ill be getting one of AB's cable kits as they are far kinder to the box!
I have stamped many a time on my gear lever while riding. Not done any damage yet.
Of much more importance is what your doing with the clutch and the throttle at the time you change gear IMO.
Still, if it feel tight, slick and you like it, then it seems a no brainer, even if it makes no difference to the longevity of the box.
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 18/12/07 at 07:56 PM |
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Andy does say he sees less gearbox issues with cable operation, I think its probably because with linkages there's more bits to come loose
(which is what caused my box failure I believe) and more variation in the quality of the installs, but I do think that a good quality rod linkage
change will be every bit as kind as a cable.
cheers
Chris
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desyboy
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| posted on 19/12/07 at 09:29 AM |
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I have a rod linkage paddle shift and its very positive and theres no play in it at all, ive done 3500 miles with it now and it works flawlessly.
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