bob
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| posted on 17/3/08 at 03:09 PM |
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How much paint ? and spraying info ?
I am thinking of spraying the bonnet on the indy to match the rest of the car (much to the delight of ned) 
My question is how much paint would i need for 1 bonnet and two cycle wings ?
Also i need some info for prep work on the white gelcoat bonnet, the new cylcewings are in yellow gellcoat.
[Edited on 17/3/08 by bob]
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 17/3/08 at 03:22 PM |
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cans or gun?
1 can per wing, 4 for the bonnet
or 500ml for gun
mind use an etch primer and don't forget to sand the glassfiber first to remove the wax etc 400 grade w/d should be fine, plus add to that the
white primer, especially with yellow wings
[Edited on 17/3/08 by Mr Whippy]
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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bob
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| posted on 17/3/08 at 03:33 PM |
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Cheers for that whippy
I'll use a gun as i've been offered, thought it might make a better finish.
Just thought i would prepare myself for the job in hand, need to find a supplier of paint too which is probably the easy part.
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 17/3/08 at 04:05 PM |
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See when doing metallic, only spray on light coats, and forget about shine. Every few coats use some 1200 grade on a sanding block and cut back a bit
to level the surface. Keep adding more paint and repeating the process, say about 4 times. Then take the panels outside in the sun and hose them down.
Look for any light bits when wet where the paint is a bit thin (edges are the most common places), then once happy that all is even and smooth spray
the lacquer, again in many light coats.
Once hard (couple of weeks) cut it back to glass smooth with T-cut scratch remover followed by normal T-cut. Then after 6 weeks polish it with good
wax.
Sounds a hell of a lot of work (it is) but that’s what I'm doing with my bike and the finish is outrageous  miles better than a factory
finish.
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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chunkytfg
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| posted on 17/3/08 at 05:30 PM |
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NO NO No dont use T-cut
Use a decent rubbing compound such as the farcela G3 but only after givng the laquer a proper sand with a really fine W+D (1800+) but minding the
edges.
And make sure the polish is a proper polish such as the autoglym super resin polish
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pewe
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| posted on 17/3/08 at 05:51 PM |
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If you have time either phone or trundle yerself down to Reading Paint Services in Caversham and speak to Richard. He's very helpful and can
supply all the necessary.
Mind you not cheap - two cans of beige aerosol etch primer were £18 each last week or have I not bought paint for some time and it's all gone
up?
About to spray my rears but decided on aerosol 1k with a lacquer coat on top.
Cheers, Pewe 
[Edited on 17/3/08 by pewe]
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theconrodkid
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| posted on 17/3/08 at 06:04 PM |
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ive seen it reasonably priced on fleabay,thats where i intend on geting mine from if the place near the old macces in hayes dont do celly anymore
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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bob
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| posted on 17/3/08 at 06:15 PM |
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I've found a supplier on the net who can deliver a litre of the colour i want for just under £20 not sure if thats good or bad, plus i need the
thinners which wont be a prob.
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worX
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| posted on 17/3/08 at 06:22 PM |
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As above, don't use T cut. Get the grades of the Farecla stuff. It's expensive but will last you ages and will be used on tintops
aswell...
G3, 6 and 10 are what I'd use.
Also as a spraying tip, to get a good depth to your finish I'd add some of the colour to the first few coats of lacquer.
It just helps tie it in IMO and it always looks better when I've done it that way!
Say 50/50 (after being mixed with thinners) on first clear coat, then 25/75 colour to clear and then a couple coats of just clear.
If I was doing a v good paint job I would take the colour down in 10%'s from about 80/20 and finish with half a dozen clear coats...
Painting (well) is a very laborious task and there's never a job where the preperation is more important!!!
Steve
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bob
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| posted on 17/3/08 at 06:41 PM |
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lacquer lacquer LOL you lads dont know me do you.
Thanks for all the tips and info, i've built a bit of a shopping list and a well known cooked breakfast specialist called theconrodkid has
pointed me towards a local supplier
I might source the main ingrediant before celly dissapears forever and wait for the nice weather.
[Edited on 17/3/08 by bob]
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thunderace
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| posted on 17/3/08 at 07:16 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by chunkytfg
NO NO No dont use T-cut
Use a decent rubbing compound such as the farcela G3 but only after givng the laquer a proper sand with a really fine W+D (1800+) but minding the
edges.
And make sure the polish is a proper polish such as the autoglym super resin polish
i love g10 for the top finish
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DarrenW
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| posted on 18/3/08 at 09:30 AM |
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Agreed - G10 brings up a good gloss as the final rubbing compound finish but still finish that off with a good polish.
First time i applied G3 to a tin top i was horrified at how dull the car was - G10 soon brought it back up though. Ive rubbed cars down with 2000
W&D before when well faded, i liken the g3 to maybe a 3000 W&D (i know you cant get that but you know what i mean in terms of what it will do
to the paint).
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