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Author: Subject: Xflow Sump Change
xxx

posted on 18/3/08 at 07:23 PM Reply With Quote
Xflow Sump Change

Hey guys. Unfortunately I need to change the sump on my 1.3 xflow. However the two bolts at the rear end are hidden by the bell housing.
I did not build my locost but Im hoping to learn some car mechanics by working on it myself.
Basically Im planning on hiring an engine crane and splitting the box from the engine just enough to get at the bolts.
Is this the best way of doing things? What will I encounter when split, will it just be one shaft? I prosume Ill need to support the gearbox also?

Thanks for your help, just trying to get an idea of what Im letting myself in for and what could cause difficulties?

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tjoh84

posted on 18/3/08 at 07:34 PM Reply With Quote
i leant on my xflow when i swaped 1300 for 1600 all i can say it took a lot of red ball and my mate to get the gear box back on good luck
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nib1980

posted on 18/3/08 at 07:39 PM Reply With Quote
yep it's the only way to do the rear seal properly.

I split mine and rebuilt it on my own, just make sure to support the gearbox too when you split it, and check the nose bearing on the end of the gearbox

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nib1980

posted on 18/3/08 at 07:40 PM Reply With Quote
where are you located, maybe some one can help?
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David Jenkins

posted on 18/3/08 at 07:40 PM Reply With Quote
I have done that job - It is possible, but not a pleasant experience!

Lying flat on my back with very little room in any direction... in the end I swore that I'd never do it again. The engine and gearbox would come out together before I try that job again!






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rusty nuts

posted on 18/3/08 at 07:53 PM Reply With Quote
It can be done in situ but not nice , easier to pull the engine out.As already said support the box. IF you take the clutch and flywheel off to replace the rear seal make sure you centralise the clutch properly otherwise you will have problems getting it back in.
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D Beddows

posted on 18/3/08 at 08:00 PM Reply With Quote
Take the engine out - you can just about get those two bolts out with the right wobble bar extension on the end of your wrench BUT getting them back in (especially with a new sump gasket in place) redefines the phrase 'b*stard of a job'

[Edited on 18/3/08 by D Beddows]

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rusty nuts

posted on 18/3/08 at 08:51 PM Reply With Quote
If I have to do it again I may leave off the gaskets, and use some of the newer instant gasket goo. Hermatite make some good stuff that may stop oil leaks from the sump better than gaskets. Also if you can lay the engine on its side it may be easier to fit the sump?
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LukeSheffield

posted on 18/3/08 at 10:14 PM Reply With Quote
I did it, but it did require, a decent set of tin snips to cut the clutch cover plate either side (was refitted by using the two bottom holes in bell-housing). Then i got one of those cheap flexi arm things and with a small socket and mini ratchet thing. I did it on the road and so couldn't really drop the engine out.
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