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Author: Subject: Electrolysis. See the light!
Northy

posted on 29/12/04 at 06:36 PM Reply With Quote
Hi Craig,

Yeah I think that was the problem, I've got a hobby type PSU on it now but it only gives out just over 1 amp, and its getting a bit warm at that too! But something is now happening, I'm getting bubbles and it looks like someone's shat in it so I guess its working!

It's gonna take a bloody long time at 1 Amp though!

Cheers





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craig1410

posted on 29/12/04 at 08:07 PM Reply With Quote
You should be able to pick up an unregulated 13.8V CB Radio power supply quite cheaply, especially if you go to one of the Amateur Radio/Computer fairs which pop up from time to time. This type of power supply will happily supply 5 Amps and they aren't usually "smart" enough to care about what type of load is across them. The other option is an old PC power supply but you'll probably need to fool it into thinking it is attached to a motherboard. Of course you could always just attach an old motherboard as well, just to get it going...

Cheers,
Craig.

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Northy

posted on 31/12/04 at 12:56 PM Reply With Quote
This is bloody brilliant!!

The worse it is when it goes in, the better it is when it comes out!

I just washed off a 4x4 rear bearing carrier and you can see the Ford logo on it!

Cheers





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Rob Lane

posted on 31/12/04 at 03:10 PM Reply With Quote
Tried it out in a small plastic tray with a 3 amp supply. Put a lower balljoint in that was rusty and it started bubbling straightaway.

Took a while to remove the rust but was a good result. It doesn't attack clean machined surfaces or rubber.

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zetec

posted on 31/12/04 at 05:31 PM Reply With Quote
Is it safe to use a galvanised bucket? Just hang the piece to be cleaned from a piece of string attached to a bit of wood with its connection cliped on and the other contact being the bucket, instant all round coverage. Only concern is the reaction with whatever they use to galvanise the bucket.





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Mix

posted on 31/12/04 at 05:39 PM Reply With Quote
Could be wrong, but I think the bucket will eventually 'dissolve'

Mick

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Rob Lane

posted on 31/12/04 at 06:22 PM Reply With Quote
Mick is right it will attack the bucket.

The zinc coating will turn black almost immediately and then it will slowly dissolve.

This works fine for another purpose though, painting galvanised bits. Ideally it should have a pickle coating applied and washed off, which has the same effect. Then paint applied.
Painting galvanising with most paints is not succesful as it peels off unless treated as above.

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Avoneer

posted on 1/1/05 at 06:01 PM Reply With Quote
Any chance of pics of your setup and done parts graham?
Cheers,
Pat...
Otherwise, I can bring all mine round to yours! I've got a 5amp power doo dar.





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wilkingj

posted on 1/1/05 at 08:31 PM Reply With Quote
I have not tried this yet... But I wonder what 13.8Volts at 40 Amps will do to it...

Its a pity, gos I gave away a 24volt 80Amp transformer last year... I used the case to prop up the bench for 10 years!.

Sounds good.. but stay Away from Stainless Steel for Electrodes, or anything with Chromium in it.







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mangogrooveworkshop

posted on 1/1/05 at 08:38 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Rob Lane
Mick is right it will attack the bucket.

The zinc coating will turn black almost immediately and then it will slowly dissolve.

This works fine for another purpose though, painting galvanised bits. Ideally it should have a pickle coating applied and washed off, which has the same effect. Then paint applied.
Painting galvanising with most paints is not succesful as it peels off unless treated as above.


vineger does the same if i remember rightly.

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Northy

posted on 1/1/05 at 09:37 PM Reply With Quote
Pat,

It's raining and windy outside, so when I go to gather up all the plant containers that have blown all over I'll take some pictures.

I've now got a 13V 12A PSU on the job, but the most current I've had flowing is just over 4 amps, but it bubbles nicely at that and works well

Get your own done!

Cheers





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MikeRJ

posted on 3/1/05 at 03:12 PM Reply With Quote
After you've finished, just leave the solution standing for a couple of days and all the crud falls to the bottom. I put the clean solution into a few (well labeled) 6 pint plastic milk bottles.

If you have some really stubborn rust, it helps to take the anodes out and give them a quick wire brush occaisionaly, helps to keep the current up.

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Northy

posted on 17/1/05 at 07:58 PM Reply With Quote
Don't use Stainless!!!!!!!!!





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phil m

posted on 17/1/05 at 09:35 PM Reply With Quote
graham -what's wrong with using stainless --the article link from the 1st posting says this is ok and doesn't get eaten away
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flak monkey

posted on 17/1/05 at 09:39 PM Reply With Quote
See this earlier in the thread...

quote:
Originally posted by craig1410
Bloody 'ell!
Have you guys read the bit about using stainless steel for the anode?? Here is the text:

"Many people using the electrolysis method for rust reduction swear by stainless steel, stating (incorrectly) that it's not consumed, stays clean and seems safe.
Stainless steel is indeed consumed when used in the electrolysis process, although slowly. The main problem with using it is the hazardous waste it produces. Stainless steel contains chromium. The electrodes, and thus the chromium is consumed, and you end up with poisonous chromates in your electrolyte. Dumping these on the ground or down the drain is illegal. The compounds can cause severe skin problems and ultimately, cancer. Hexavalent chromate is poisonous. These compounds are not excused from hazardous waste regulations where household wastes are.
These compounds are bad enough that government regulations mandate "elimination of hexavalent chromate by 2007 for corrosion protection."

Does your electrolyte turn yellow? That's a sign of chromates.

If you have been using stainless steel for the anodes (positive electrodes), wear rubber gloves when working with or near the liquids. If you need to dispose of it, allow it to evaporate into powders and dispose of the powders in sealed containers during your local "hazardous waste clean-up days".

Best bet - don't use stainless steel no matter how tempting it is."

Scary stuff!!
If anyone has seen the film "Erin Brochovich" with Julia Roberts then you will know how dangerous hexavalent chromium is. The worrying thing is that I didn't know about this earlier and have handled and disposed of this stuff down the drain as it was supposedly non-toxic and harmless. I can't remember there being any yellow residue and the stainless plate may not have been stainless steel as it was magnetic (I know some SS's are ferrous) and it was eventually eaten away by the process. It may have been chrome plated though which may even be worse!

I guess we'd better all just use mild steel from now on then eh???
Cheers,
Craig.


Chromium certainly isnt good for you (well some types aren't anyway)

Cheers,
David

[Edited on 17/1/05 by flak monkey]





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phil m

posted on 17/1/05 at 09:49 PM Reply With Quote
ahhhhhhhh ! -thats the prob with long threads -easy to miss out bits -thanks
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Rorty

posted on 18/1/05 at 04:29 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by phil m
ahhhhhhhh ! -thats the prob with long threads -easy to miss out bits -thanks

Might I suggest you remove your previous post incase someone else does the same as you and reads your post and thinks it's OK to use stainless.





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Chris_R

posted on 19/1/05 at 06:56 PM Reply With Quote
I posted earlier about my calipers and thought I'd attach some pics. Uprights done the same way too.









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Northy

posted on 19/1/05 at 09:16 PM Reply With Quote
Perhaps Liam should edit his first post to warn of the damgers of using stainless!





Graham


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monkey69

posted on 15/2/05 at 08:40 PM Reply With Quote


Had a go at this. Well impressed! I used a Dell PSU, plastic tub and some rebar for the anode. Total cost was about 4 squid excluding electricity.

This is one of the rear hub carriers, which I treated with metal ready and coated with hammerite. I then baked them for 30 minutes at 140 degrees c after the second coat. This has dried them rock hard, and the paint even survived the bearing seals being knocked in.

No before photo, but the usual story, totally brown, bits puffed up and flaking off. Took 3 hours each in the bath.

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Liam

posted on 16/2/05 at 01:01 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Northy
Perhaps Liam should edit his first post to warn of the damgers of using stainless!


Hmmmm. Well, OK.

Liam

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Rob Lane

posted on 16/2/05 at 04:36 PM Reply With Quote
After you've all done your parts why not replate them?

This place has DIY plating kits, anyone fancy Gold ?

http://www.speed-demon.supanet.com/

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Steve&Steve

posted on 16/2/05 at 06:19 PM Reply With Quote
I have noted the dangers of using Caustic Soda, a Stainless Steel Anode and that the gas given off at the Cathode (the object being de-rusted) is Hydrogen so its best to perform this in a well ventilated area.

But can I check...

1) Using an Iron (a cast iron plate) anode is OK?
As far as I can tell it's the iron content of steel that is sacrificed in the reaction anyway and there are no other additives in cast iron that could cause any problems.

2) The dirty electrolyte solution used can be safely disposed of down a storm drain? And, Is it OK to stick you hands in to remove the clean part?.

3) Is aluminium or any other metals adversly affected by the process? (I know plastics and rubber should be OK)

...Thanks, I always like to check where i'm not 95% confident.

-Steve-






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Northy

posted on 18/2/05 at 06:11 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Steve&Steve
the gas given off at the Cathode (the object being de-rusted) is Hydrogen so its best to perform this in a well ventilated area.
-Steve-


Is that right?
I've been doing it in the garage which is part of the house!!!





Graham


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Steve&Steve

posted on 20/2/05 at 09:40 PM Reply With Quote
I'v collected the bits I need to try this out and will be setting it up tomorrow. So if anyone has any final advice on the above comments, let me know please! Cheers






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