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Author: Subject: Insulating garage door
tegwin

posted on 2/10/08 at 08:55 PM Reply With Quote
Insulating garage door

I am determined not to let these dark cold evenings stop me working in the garage!!!

My garage has 15" thick walls...and a 15" thick ceiling... (Built like a nuclear bunker!!!)

I have a double garaged sized up and over ribbed and braced steel door which I am sure just bleeds any heat thats inside...

What is the chepest and most effective way of insulating said door to stop it radiating the heat inside?.....

I had thought about ductaping/stapling plastic sheet over it and then filling the gap between the sheet and door with expanding foam...but not sure if the sheet would hold long enough to support the foam!!!

Any thoughts?





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matt_claydon

posted on 2/10/08 at 08:59 PM Reply With Quote
Most important first is to effectively seal around the door with some form of draught exclusion. Once the draughts are gone then I'd have thought the best way to insulate would be the (50mm?) foam board as used on the underside of roofs and in wall cavities. Just bond it to the door with PU, pink grip, no more nails or anything like that.
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MikeR

posted on 2/10/08 at 08:59 PM Reply With Quote
go onto ebay and buy some bubble wrap, tape that to the door. two layers gives you a decent amount of insulation. I did it end of last winter and noticed the difference immediately (well i did that and put hardboard down on the roof rafters to trap air and stop it blowing around so much)
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RickRick

posted on 2/10/08 at 09:05 PM Reply With Quote
i used polysterene ceiling tiles cost about £30 for a single garage, but the glue was most of that, and there was tons left, though the building foam sounds better depending on cost
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mangogrooveworkshop

posted on 2/10/08 at 09:07 PM Reply With Quote
use Item number: 170267927813 and do the whole unit.

I did and its like an oven






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chris taylor

posted on 2/10/08 at 09:08 PM Reply With Quote
Polystyrene

Did my double door with 50mm Polystyrene sheet from Wickes.
Very reasonable cost and very light, so no strain on the door & lifter mech,

cheers,
Chris.

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Dangle_kt

posted on 2/10/08 at 09:43 PM Reply With Quote
I found standing on carpet made a big difference too - stopped the concrete robbing all the heat from my boots - and I find warm feet = warm body. I just stapled a tarp to the wooden garage door frame to stop the drafts. It works ok.
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Rosco

posted on 2/10/08 at 10:44 PM Reply With Quote
The real pucca building insulation, Celotex, is really good value. I'm planning in do my garage door and ceiling with it in the next few weeks. You can get it in different sizes but go for the common sizes used by builders as these are much cheaper. i.e. 25mm, 50mm or 100mm. and it tends to come in 8' x 4' sheets. Just cut it with a wood saw and glue it on.
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loggyboy

posted on 2/10/08 at 11:48 PM Reply With Quote
Try seaching for triso super 10, its a thin metailic layered insulation thats suppposed to work wonderfully well, but its struggling to get LA approval despite a few tests in its favour. Either way its very thin and would suit a garage door well.

alternatively pop down a few building sites and see if they have any off cuts of rockwool or PUR (celotext/kingspan) thats common in 90% of developments.

[Edited on 2/10/08 by loggyboy]





Mistral Motorsport

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Danozeman

posted on 3/10/08 at 05:40 AM Reply With Quote
Sort out the draughts around the garage door would be a first thing. Even cardbaord stuck to the inside of the door would make a difference.





Dan

Built the purple peril!! Let the modifications begin!!

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jabbahutt

posted on 3/10/08 at 07:24 AM Reply With Quote
polystyrene sheet on the back off the garage door, brush type excluder along the bottom. A large carpet offcut to cover the floor and a small electric fan heater with a thermostat cut out.

Last winter I was in there in shorts and a t shirt as otherwise I was too hot.

Nigel






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minitici

posted on 3/10/08 at 08:18 AM Reply With Quote
Anyone consider the fire risk of polystyrene in a garage
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iank

posted on 3/10/08 at 10:10 AM Reply With Quote
Instead of a fan heater get a couple of halogen lights on stands. Just as hot (1kW) and lots of useful light.

Like these:
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/14558/Lighting/Torches-Task-Lighting/Site-Lights/Double-Tripod-Site-Light-240V





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Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous

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James

posted on 3/10/08 at 12:14 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by matt_claydon
Most important first is to effectively seal around the door with some form of draught exclusion. Once the draughts are gone then I'd have thought the best way to insulate would be the (50mm?) foam board as used on the underside of roofs and in wall cavities. Just bond it to the door with PU, pink grip, no more nails or anything like that.


That's how I'd do it.

Screwfix sell a 'garage door draft excluder' that you fit along the bottom of the door.

Cheers,
James





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mangogrooveworkshop

posted on 3/10/08 at 03:09 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by James
quote:
Originally posted by matt_claydon
Most important first is to effectively seal around the door with some form of draught exclusion. Once the draughts are gone then I'd have thought the best way to insulate would be the (50mm?) foam board as used on the underside of roofs and in wall cavities. Just bond it to the door with PU, pink grip, no more nails or anything like that.


That's how I'd do it.

Screwfix sell a 'garage door draft excluder' that you fit along the bottom of the door.

Cheers,
James


http://www.screwfix.com/prods/63359/Ironmongery/Draught-Rain-Excluders/Rain-Draught-Excluders/Industrial-Door-Seal-Aluminium-1250mm-Pack-of-2







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