tegwin
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posted on 2/10/08 at 08:55 PM |
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Insulating garage door
I am determined not to let these dark cold evenings stop me working in the garage!!!
My garage has 15" thick walls...and a 15" thick ceiling... (Built like a nuclear bunker!!!)
I have a double garaged sized up and over ribbed and braced steel door which I am sure just bleeds any heat thats inside...
What is the chepest and most effective way of insulating said door to stop it radiating the heat inside?.....
I had thought about ductaping/stapling plastic sheet over it and then filling the gap between the sheet and door with expanding foam...but not sure if
the sheet would hold long enough to support the foam!!!
Any thoughts?
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Would the last person who leaves the country please switch off the lights and close the door!
www.verticalhorizonsmedia.tv
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matt_claydon
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posted on 2/10/08 at 08:59 PM |
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Most important first is to effectively seal around the door with some form of draught exclusion. Once the draughts are gone then I'd have
thought the best way to insulate would be the (50mm?) foam board as used on the underside of roofs and in wall cavities. Just bond it to the door with
PU, pink grip, no more nails or anything like that.
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MikeR
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posted on 2/10/08 at 08:59 PM |
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go onto ebay and buy some bubble wrap, tape that to the door. two layers gives you a decent amount of insulation. I did it end of last winter and
noticed the difference immediately (well i did that and put hardboard down on the roof rafters to trap air and stop it blowing around so much)
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RickRick
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posted on 2/10/08 at 09:05 PM |
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i used polysterene ceiling tiles cost about £30 for a single garage, but the glue was most of that, and there was tons left, though the building foam
sounds better depending on cost
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mangogrooveworkshop
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posted on 2/10/08 at 09:07 PM |
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use Item number: 170267927813 and do the whole unit.
I did and its like an oven
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chris taylor
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posted on 2/10/08 at 09:08 PM |
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Polystyrene
Did my double door with 50mm Polystyrene sheet from Wickes.
Very reasonable cost and very light, so no strain on the door & lifter mech,
cheers,
Chris.
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Dangle_kt
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posted on 2/10/08 at 09:43 PM |
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I found standing on carpet made a big difference too - stopped the concrete robbing all the heat from my boots - and I find warm feet = warm body. I
just stapled a tarp to the wooden garage door frame to stop the drafts. It works ok.
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Rosco
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posted on 2/10/08 at 10:44 PM |
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The real pucca building insulation, Celotex, is really good value. I'm planning in do my garage door and ceiling with it in the next few weeks.
You can get it in different sizes but go for the common sizes used by builders as these are much cheaper. i.e. 25mm, 50mm or 100mm. and it tends to
come in 8' x 4' sheets. Just cut it with a wood saw and glue it on.
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loggyboy
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posted on 2/10/08 at 11:48 PM |
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Try seaching for triso super 10, its a thin metailic layered insulation thats suppposed to work wonderfully well, but its struggling to get LA
approval despite a few tests in its favour. Either way its very thin and would suit a garage door well.
alternatively pop down a few building sites and see if they have any off cuts of rockwool or PUR (celotext/kingspan) thats common in 90% of
developments.
[Edited on 2/10/08 by loggyboy]
Mistral Motorsport
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Danozeman
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posted on 3/10/08 at 05:40 AM |
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Sort out the draughts around the garage door would be a first thing. Even cardbaord stuck to the inside of the door would make a difference.
Dan
Built the purple peril!! Let the modifications begin!!
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk
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jabbahutt
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posted on 3/10/08 at 07:24 AM |
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polystyrene sheet on the back off the garage door, brush type excluder along the bottom. A large carpet offcut to cover the floor and a small
electric fan heater with a thermostat cut out.
Last winter I was in there in shorts and a t shirt as otherwise I was too hot.
Nigel
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minitici
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posted on 3/10/08 at 08:18 AM |
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Anyone consider the fire risk of polystyrene in a garage
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iank
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posted on 3/10/08 at 10:10 AM |
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Instead of a fan heater get a couple of halogen lights on stands. Just as hot (1kW) and lots of useful light.
Like these:
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/14558/Lighting/Torches-Task-Lighting/Site-Lights/Double-Tripod-Site-Light-240V
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
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James
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posted on 3/10/08 at 12:14 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by matt_claydon
Most important first is to effectively seal around the door with some form of draught exclusion. Once the draughts are gone then I'd have
thought the best way to insulate would be the (50mm?) foam board as used on the underside of roofs and in wall cavities. Just bond it to the door with
PU, pink grip, no more nails or anything like that.
That's how I'd do it.
Screwfix sell a 'garage door draft excluder' that you fit along the bottom of the door.
Cheers,
James
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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mangogrooveworkshop
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posted on 3/10/08 at 03:09 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by James
quote: Originally posted by matt_claydon
Most important first is to effectively seal around the door with some form of draught exclusion. Once the draughts are gone then I'd have
thought the best way to insulate would be the (50mm?) foam board as used on the underside of roofs and in wall cavities. Just bond it to the door with
PU, pink grip, no more nails or anything like that.
That's how I'd do it.
Screwfix sell a 'garage door draft excluder' that you fit along the bottom of the door.
Cheers,
James
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/63359/Ironmongery/Draught-Rain-Excluders/Rain-Draught-Excluders/Industrial-Door-Seal-Aluminium-1250mm-Pack-of-2
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