ReMan
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| posted on 22/3/12 at 09:46 PM |
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MK INDY Propshaft Flange H
Following on from the first stage of pulling it apart
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=167919
And the good fortune of the prop not letting go, I need to insert said Reverse box and split prps
As per the picture I have a small collection of props
 
prop1
Now I want to use the one in the top of the pic as it's a TRT, but it has the wrong flange on one end, wheras the one below has the right one
Is it a DIY job to remove and swap these, I'm not sure how they come apart, even if I pull the clips off?
Hopefully then a combination of the TRT = one of the smaller ones and the Rev box will fit...........
www.plusnine.co.uk
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mark chandler
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| posted on 22/3/12 at 10:16 PM |
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If you remove the clips you can press the spider out using 1/2" sockets either side.
Refit is the reverse, from a distant memory the spiders come in two sizes so have a good measure to ensure they are both the same size.
To shorten carefully grind out the weld where the tube joins the casting, cut into the weld and maybe ¼” deep, the cast bit is a plug into the tube,
you should then be able to tap it off.
Cut the tube to the correct length then either weld back yourself (do a good job and keep it aligned) or send it correctly sized to get a specialist
to do this.
This lot are meant to be very good and fairly priced http://www.autoprop-uk.co.uk/
Regards Mark
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daviep
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| posted on 22/3/12 at 10:59 PM |
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As mark says remove the circlips, to strip the joint it's quite simple if you just want to swap the flanges.
1: Only remove the circlips from the flange side of the joint.
2: Open your vice jaws just far enough that the bearing cap will fit through
3: Place the flange on the vice so that it is supported either side of the bearing - if you're right handed you'll probably be holding the
rest of the shaft with your left hand.
4: Using a copper mallet give the shaft a couple of good licks as close to the joint as you can - the cross should drive the bearing cap out - stop
when the cross bottoms out in the flange yoke - the cap won't come all the way out
5: Rotate the shaft 180 degrees and repeat
6: Use vice or pliers to grip the bearing cap and pull / work it out - be careful not to squeeze the caps too hard they're very thin also be
careful not to loose any rollers
7: Once the caps are out the cross can be removed from the yoke - you might get the cross out with only one cap removed and the other pushed back
Do this for both joints - keep the caps with the cross they are removed from.
Rebuilding is simply a case of reversing the process
1: Fit cross inside yoke
2: Fit caps to either side - use thick grease to stick the rollers into the cap and be very careful not to disturb any rollers when the cross enters
the cap
3: Press one cap all the way in and fit circlip
4: Press 2nd cap home until circlip can be fitted - be very careful in case any rollers have been dislodged and are trapped between the cross and the
base of the cap
5: Fit circlip
6: Knock end caps against circlips using the same technique used to remove them.
7: Joint should feel smooth and reasonably free
Cheers
Davie
[Edited on 22/3/12 by daviep]
“A truly great library contains something in it to offend everyone.”
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ReMan
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| posted on 22/3/12 at 11:23 PM |
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Cheers both.
I'll definatly give that a go tmorrow/over the weekend
www.plusnine.co.uk
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yellowcab
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| posted on 23/3/12 at 12:28 AM |
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hopefully you'll have some help...?
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