speedyxjs
|
| posted on 18/4/09 at 05:38 PM |
|
|
Derusting chassis
How have you done yours? I was going to use a angrygrinder with wire brush and use sandpaper in the hard to reach places but after starting it, i
thought it would probably be quicker to use sandpaper. Its only surface rust so would come off quite easily.
Any thoughts?
How long can i resist the temptation to drop a V8 in?
|
|
|
|
|
BenB
|
| posted on 18/4/09 at 05:40 PM |
|
|
Have you considered something like Bilt Hamber Deox gel????? Brush on, wipe off. Supposed to work quite well.....
|
|
|
SWW84
|
| posted on 18/4/09 at 05:41 PM |
|
|
If you can afford it, get it shotblasted. Perhaps £120-£200
|
|
|
speedyxjs
|
| posted on 18/4/09 at 05:43 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by SWW84
If you can afford it, get it shotblasted. Perhaps £120-£200
No chance of that. I can barley afford 10% of that 
How long can i resist the temptation to drop a V8 in?
|
|
|
SWW84
|
| posted on 18/4/09 at 05:48 PM |
|
|
My Dad and I did a whole chassis using metal flap wheels on a 230V drill, took ages and can be awkward, but certainly cheap.
|
|
|
Staple balls
|
| posted on 18/4/09 at 06:13 PM |
|
|
The tool™, sandpaper and a bottle of metal ready. Sorted 
|
|
|
clairetoo
|
| posted on 18/4/09 at 06:16 PM |
|
|
Leave the rust on , and bung on a coat of POR - near as tough as powdercoat , and stops rust completely
Its cuz I is blond , innit
Claire xx
Will weld for food......
|
|
|
mr henderson
|
| posted on 18/4/09 at 06:29 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by clairetoo
Leave the rust on , and bung on a coat of POR - near as tough as powdercoat , and stops rust completely
Seconded. Haven't tried the POR, but Hammerite sticks much better to rust than to smooth metal
John
|
|
|
speedyxjs
|
| posted on 18/4/09 at 06:34 PM |
|
|
Ok cool. That save me spending my evenings sanding a chassis. I can spend them polishing my rocker cover instead
How long can i resist the temptation to drop a V8 in?
|
|
|
clairetoo
|
| posted on 18/4/09 at 07:33 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by speedyxjs
Ok cool. That save me spending my evenings sanding a chassis. I can spend them polishing my rocker cover instead
I dunno ....... it's all about the bling wiv you , innit 
Its cuz I is blond , innit
Claire xx
Will weld for food......
|
|
|
iank
|
| posted on 18/4/09 at 08:16 PM |
|
|
If you're getting it powdercoated then get it blasted as part of their prep - if you don't it'll come off in sheets when the water
inevitably gets under it.
If painting and it's only surface rust use something like metal ready
(link) which comes in budget and
etches the surface at the same time as cleaning off the rust - gives an excellent surface allowing primer to stick really well.
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
|
|
|
Confused but excited.
|
| posted on 18/4/09 at 08:26 PM |
|
|
Oh, thank you, thank you, thank you.
I've got to do mine after leaving it lying fallow for over a year and wasn't looking forward to a few days coughing up rust dust.
Tell them about the bent treacle edges!
|
|
|
stevegough
|
| posted on 20/4/09 at 08:22 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by speedyxjs
How have you done yours? I was going to use a angrygrinder with wire brush and use sandpaper in the hard to reach places but after starting it, i
thought it would probably be quicker to use sandpaper. Its only surface rust so would come off quite easily.
Any thoughts?
this is something I had to do as when I bought the kit off ebay (unstarted project) the chassis was in a bit of a state. I considered many options -
as you are doing now - even galvanizing - but they won't galvanize a spaceframe chassis as the tubes are sealed, and they can burst!
I went down the route of finding a company who shotblasted then immediately powdercoated straight away. This is important as rust starts to form in a
very short time on bare steel.
They charged me a very reasonable £220 all in - might sound expensive to you, but its money well spent.
It would have cost me £500 if I didn't shop around - as it was I had to trailer it 45 miles each way.
Take a look at my 'rusty chassis' before and after pics and compare them with your own.
On the other hand, If you do clean it back to bare metal yourself - use a good 'acid etch' primer (as a couple of the other guys have
already mentioned) this keys itself into the surface of the steel, and will prevent any future paintwork issues.
Good luck, Steve.
 
Rescued attachment after sblast powcoat.jpg
Luego Locost C20XE.
Build start: October 6th 2008.
IVA passed Jan 28th 2011.
First drive Feb 10th 2011.
First show: Stoneleigh 1st/2nd May 2011.
'Used up' first engine may 3rd 2011!
Back on the road with 2nd engine may 24th
First PASA mad drive 26/7/11
Sold to Mike in Methyr Tydvil 19/03/14
|
|
|
speedyxjs
|
| posted on 22/4/09 at 07:55 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by stevegough
They charged me a very reasonable £220 all in - might sound expensive to you, but its money well spent.
Thats ok but if you dont have the money, you cant spend it.
Your chassis does look pretty good btw 
How long can i resist the temptation to drop a V8 in?
|
|
|
cheapracer
|
| posted on 24/4/09 at 12:52 PM |
|
|
I have almost always used diesel and wet'n'dry by hand. Using a liquid (the diesel) makes things happen fast.
"wet'n'dry" is the Oz term for wetable sandpaper as body shops use for rubbing back paint except they use water of course -
the liquids act as a lubricant.
Works really well and the rust won't come back for a long time as the diesel puts a coating on it that lasts quite well. Occasionaly just wipe
some more diesel on it with a rag. You can weld to it etc. without the need for grinding back paint too.
Its really cheap but dirty and smelly way to do it but I heard you were too so thats ok
[Edited on 24/4/09 by cheapracer]
It's coming....
|
|
|
mr henderson
|
| posted on 24/4/09 at 01:10 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by cheapracer
Its really cheap but dirty and smelly way to do it but I heard you were too so thats ok
|
|
|
