cliftyhanger
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| posted on 18/1/13 at 06:01 PM |
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alarm for garage
As the new garage build is about to start (diggerman is coming monday) I am thinking about alarms. The garage is up th eback of the garden with side
access, so I was thinking of a simple alarm that could be switched on by a switch in the house. 1 or 2 PIR sensors, or even contacts for the windows
and doors.
Anybody got any bright ideas? all cabling will be buried etc, so I need to think about cabling at least PDQ.
Currently I will run:
4mm armoured cable
telephone
ethernet
a couple of pairs of bellwire (maybe a cheapo intercom for dinnertime)
Plus whatever an alarm would require....
Any thoughts would be good as I have never alarmed anything before.
Ta
Clive
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whitestu
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| posted on 18/1/13 at 06:10 PM |
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I just used a seperate house type alarm on my old garage - haven't got round to doing the new one but will probably do the same again.
How far is the garage from the house? if it is any distance 4mm SWA may not be big enough.
Stu
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cliftyhanger
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| posted on 18/1/13 at 06:13 PM |
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about 15m house to garage
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mark chandler
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| posted on 18/1/13 at 06:19 PM |
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Wifi remote camera that supports email, then it will mail you wh en it sees movement and you can log in to have a looksee
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cliftyhanger
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| posted on 18/1/13 at 06:25 PM |
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Nooooooooooooo!!!
I want something that will go off ad scare people off or attract attention from my (soon to be) neighbours.
If I got notification by email it could be days before I found out the garage had been emptied
I was hoping there is a small (but ideally loud) alarm I could wire up, and as I said, switch on from the house (hard wired, not wireless)
Guess a house alarm is the best bet? I really do not want one with a code panel or such.
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dave
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| posted on 18/1/13 at 06:54 PM |
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Try Alarm Supplies there is one in Bramley. they will be able to help.
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serieslandy
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| posted on 18/1/13 at 07:02 PM |
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What ever you get install one of these eBay Item
I've got one pointed at the door and its so loud you can't really do anything!
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Canada EH!
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| posted on 18/1/13 at 07:13 PM |
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I work for and alarm company here in Canada, I have a 2 story barn type garage.
The system consists of door switches on the overheaad door, main floor man door, and switch on the second floor entrance (double doors to load in
snowmobiles) there is a single motion detector on the main floor.
The garage system is on its own except when an alarm is set off in the garage it also signals the house.
The garge is 30 meters from the house.
Remember to wire the alarm system in at the same time as the electrical wiring in the building. I know you use a 240 amp system were ours are 120, we
use telephone cable for the alarm systems here.
Hope this helps.
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cliftyhanger
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| posted on 18/1/13 at 07:46 PM |
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I like that soundbomb. I reckon there will be room for a couple of those
Yep, some extra multi-core cable in the buried conduit should keep everything happy. I hope.
I wondered about just using a PIR sensor to trigger a sounder. However, the PIR floodlights I have used always come of for about 30 seconds and then
go to "sleep"
obviously this wouldn't be good,as the alarm would sound every time I switched it on....
[Edited on 18/1/13 by cliftyhanger]
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dave r
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| posted on 18/1/13 at 08:15 PM |
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poacher alarm....
pull the pin , it drops a weight and sets off a 12 bore shell
http://www.furfeatherandfin.com/product/17/sz01/poachers-alarm.html#.UPmtmvJCcZ4
[Edited on 18/1/13 by dave r]
I'd love to give my imaginary friend a great big hug,
but this jacket makes it impossible.
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omega 24 v6
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| posted on 18/1/13 at 08:17 PM |
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Magnetic contacts on all the doors and a couple of pressure pads would suffice.
Pirs are great but if you've got any mice/rats or birds inside then it could be a pain esp at 3 in the morning.
If it looks wrong it probably is wrong.
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Confused but excited.
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| posted on 18/1/13 at 08:21 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by whitestu
I just used a seperate house type alarm on my old garage - haven't got round to doing the new one but will probably do the same again.
How far is the garage from the house? if it is any distance 4mm SWA may not be big enough.
Stu
What? To switch a low voltage circuit on and off. Behave yourself, bell wire would do if protected. I would use a run of 1mm T+E.
Tell them about the bent treacle edges!
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jossey
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| posted on 18/1/13 at 08:28 PM |
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I use a foscam with a car alarm wired to it inside the garage also I have bought an alarm box to put it in but not done it yet.
I have another foscam camera which is a wireless ip camera 30 meters from house works fine. This has access from the web to check n as above it emails
pics if people come in the drive.
I have set it up to not record images at 7-8 am n 5-6 pm so most of time it won't catch us leaving for work.
I then added a smart water sticker on the window n marked all me stuff.
Ip cameras are good in dark with the infra red they are great quality n most people avoid them due to the red light.
A cheap door sensr is y next buy when I change the door to upvc.
Thanks
Thanks
David Johnson
Building my tiger avon slowly but surely.
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bi22le
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| posted on 18/1/13 at 08:57 PM |
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er. . . your all over looking this. Its locostbuilders.
Choose your switches depending on entry point \ application, wire them in parrallel. In the circuit add a big battery with trickle charger. Finally
add inline a giant siren (12V) X 2.
They wont hang around long when their ears start bleeding and you can hear is 3 streets away!!
As the circuit is so sensible just add a tester switch in. Oh also a cut out would be sensible.
Yeah, yeah, one cut and its game over but I recon any person on hear can hide a wire.
Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!
Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1
Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I
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cliftyhanger
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| posted on 18/1/13 at 09:21 PM |
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I like your thinking!
Are alarm contact/door switches normally open or closed (ie do they switch on when the door is opened? that is what I now want to know!)
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matt_gsxr
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| posted on 18/1/13 at 09:48 PM |
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Just a thought, but I'd put a cable with more current carrying capacity.
2 reasons. Welding and the inevitable electric cars in our future.
Much easier to do it now than to dig down 750mm+ later on.
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Steve
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| posted on 18/1/13 at 09:51 PM |
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Normally closed
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Steve
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| posted on 18/1/13 at 09:57 PM |
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Best thing to do is put a duct up to new garage with a draw string in, just incase you need any additional supplies or wires. That's what I did
on the last garage build I wired
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wilkingj
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| posted on 18/1/13 at 10:59 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Steve
Best thing to do is put a duct up to new garage with a draw string in, just incase you need any additional supplies or wires. That's what I did
on the last garage build I wired
I agree.... BUT Put TWO ducts in. Regulations (my info is 20 years old, IEE regs issue 15 or 16) state that you MUST have a physical separation
between Power and communications cables.
You could put one duct and an armoured cable in the same trench. But I would always put in two ducts if I had the chance, as its easier to changeout
the powwer cable if it goes faulty, or needs upgrading.
Duct is always more expensive, but well worth it in the long run.
I always preferred a 4" duct to the 2" ones as they are more rugged and easier to get thicker cables or the duct rods round the
bend(s).
Put bends thru the floor slab, even of you dont go duct all the way, it leaves options open for later.
Also rod them separate times for each cable, as putting in two cables with one draw rope will cause them to twist together. Yeah... I know more work,
but better later on if you want pull one out!
In grass / soil / pathways with pedestrian traffic, I would have a minimum of 400mm cover from the TOP of the duct. 600mm if it carries traffic e.g.
driveway. (I worked on this sort of thing for nearly 20 years)
Do it right first time, and it wont be a problem.
Use decent thick walled duct, NOT rain water pipe. Then it wont be subject to pressure damage (collapse) and point impact by stones when compacting
the earth.
As a good measure put the Electricity hazard / warning tape above the duct when doing the backfilling. It might not be You that digs it up later
on.
I would check the current regulations, as my info is very old, but hadnt changed in 20 years when I first used it. Its basically sound.
Finally, I am NO expert, but please consider my thoughts, then check it out with the regs etc.
Have fun, and do it right.
[Edited on 18/1/2013 by wilkingj]
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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spiderman
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| posted on 18/1/13 at 11:34 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by serieslandy
What ever you get install one of these eBay Item
I've got one pointed at the door and its so loud you can't really do anything!
Put a siren inside the building as the noise will disorientate the intruders, they will not be able to have any cognitive thought (if they could
manage it before the alarm went off), it will also make them nervous as they would not be able to hear anyone coming even if the Police bothered to
come with sirens blaring. This technique also works for car alarms, put the siren under the dash and the thieving git will not want to put his head
down there to pull wires to hot wire/ kill alarm/bust steering locks.
I thought the poacher alarm had been outlawed. I would always be tempted to load a proper cartridge aimed at the door. For those of a nervous
disposition or without the facilities to get rid of a body you could load the cartridge with rock salt, strings like a ba*tard for days,
allegedly.
Clive, you could always leave an oil slick on the floor for them to slip in, Oh you probably have one of those, left by your Triumph. 
No one has suggested this one yet, big noisy dog, scrots do not like dogs. An old country boy told me "never trust a man that does not like
dogs" the reason they don't like dogs is because dogs don't like them as the dog has them sussed. Only exception is some one who has
fear of dogs.
[Edited on 18/1/13 by spiderman]
[Edited on 18/1/13 by spiderman]
Spider
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cliftyhanger
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| posted on 19/1/13 at 07:38 AM |
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Spider, I am allergic to dogs. So unless I buy a labradoodle (or whatever they are called, and look a bit daft) I couldn't have one. I suspect
an alarm is the simple solution!
Think I will see if I can get something simple organised. I have found some normally open reed switches that should do the trick. A 12V supply, some
soundbombs and that should do it. Maybe a relay as well.....
The power supply can be switched off at the house. Total cost about £25 I reckon, my sort of cost.
As to ducting, I was going to use the simple corrugated 20mm stuff, and yes, leave a blank one with a string and mouse. Power cables in one, and the
other gubbins in another, plus a spare. The 40A should be plenty, my current (ha ha) garage runs off a single 2.5 Twin and earth (connected to the
upstairs ring!!! been like that since way before I bought the house) via a 13A fuse and I have done plenty of welding and so on. I was going to run a
16A and 6A mcb in the garage. Should be plenty for now. Not sure what leccy cars will require, but buy the time I get one they will run off water or
something. In fact I reckon the future lies with fuel cells. Or something we don't know about yet.
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whitestu
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| posted on 19/1/13 at 09:33 AM |
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link
Try the calculator on here to check appropriate cable size.
stu
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cliftyhanger
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| posted on 19/1/13 at 11:14 AM |
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Brill. 4mm is fine I think from that calculator.
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