gaz_gaz
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| posted on 12/11/15 at 06:55 PM |
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Suggestions for fitting bodywork
Well my bodywork showed up today.
The final challenge and last step of the build is fitting it.
I'm looking for ideas to keep the fittings as invisible as possible but remain functional for easy removal and fitting.
I have a couple of ideas but as this is my first fiddle with a full body I'd like to hear other peoples ideas
open to suggestion for different type fittings ect
thanks
Gary
[Edited on 12/11/15 by gaz_gaz]
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HowardB
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| posted on 12/11/15 at 07:04 PM |
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oo, that looks good 
road or race?
Howard
Fisher Fury was 2000 Zetec - now a 1600 (it Lives again and goes zoom)
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MsD
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| posted on 12/11/15 at 07:13 PM |
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I still think you should sell
this to me!
Its similair to the j15 I've just bought so ill take some pics and show you how its fastened.
Are you hinging the clams or wanting to remove them completely?
Mark.
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jacko
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| posted on 12/11/15 at 07:16 PM |
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Velcro 
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gaz_gaz
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| posted on 12/11/15 at 07:33 PM |
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It wont be road legal Howard,
I don't actually know what I'm going to do with it, Probably a couple of trackdays then either sprints or a bash at RGB.
I almost emailed you the other week Mark when I had the arse with it and wanted it out my sight, Think It was just after iI burnt a hole in my new
coat soldering never ending connection in the garage
I'm not going to hinge it, I think that's asking for bits to get broken when wind catches it ect.
Velcro eh, anyone with kids want to donate some shoes
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HowardB
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| posted on 12/11/15 at 08:01 PM |
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The simple solution is to grp some brackets and "bits" to the inside and get these to locate and lock onto similar on the chassis...
otherwise aerocatches are a good tidy solution if a little expensive.
Howard
Fisher Fury was 2000 Zetec - now a 1600 (it Lives again and goes zoom)
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mark chandler
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| posted on 12/11/15 at 08:04 PM |
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We will see you at the Dimanche sprint next year then
I have the same dilemma, however my body is tatty so no concerns about hanging stuff off it, I,m going to put some cling film over the rear frame so
it does not stick then glass some mounting ribs so it can be lifted off if need be, then drill and bolt in place under the arches.
The front may be hinged although I may just lay on a ply splitter and push into locating pegs then strap back at the scuttle end.
[Edited on 12/11/15 by mark chandler]
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StevieB
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| posted on 12/11/15 at 08:34 PM |
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What bodywork is that?
You could make some outriggers with aluminium angle and box section, which should keep thing light and simple.
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gaz_gaz
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| posted on 12/11/15 at 08:36 PM |
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The sprint thing was something I was very much looking forward too but I was made aware of the rule changes coming in regarding ROPS, My cage is 38mm
and I'm not sure I can be bothered with the effort of altering it, But who knows!
I have an alloy front splitter. Was thinking of something silimar, Perhaps some mounting pegs with holes through fastened to the splitter.
the front body could locate onto these and be held in place with some R clips with access via some little notches in the front edge of the body, Then
some aerocatches as Howard suggests either side of the car,
I think the rear will probably be bolted into place as there is very little going on at the back and there's a rather large access panel in the
tub anyway.
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gaz_gaz
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| posted on 12/11/15 at 08:51 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by StevieB
What bodywork is that?
You could make some outriggers with aluminium angle and box section, which should keep thing light and simple.
Hi Stevie
The bodywork is Arion from Andy Bates,
I have outriggers at either side to support the body and a large splitter at the front, It's mostly clever/neat solutions for keeping them
attached I'm after..
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mark chandler
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| posted on 12/11/15 at 09:03 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by gaz_gaz
The sprint thing was something I was very much looking forward too but I was made aware of the rule changes coming in regarding ROPS, My cage is 38mm
and I'm not sure I can be bothered with the effort of altering it, But who knows!
You only need a decent rear hoop and stays, forward or backwards which would take no more than a day to sort then you open up possibilities.
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gaz_gaz
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| posted on 12/11/15 at 09:17 PM |
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I don't weld, Certainly not to a standard good enough for a safety critical part,
The cheapest quote I got to mod the hoop and backstays and redo the 2 tubes running from back to front hoop was 700.
just smarts a little but I'm not ruling it out in future
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mark chandler
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| posted on 12/11/15 at 09:54 PM |
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Fit it all up, fish mouth the tubes and bring it around here .
2" CDS flat pack should be around £80, then add a bottle of wine for me
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gaz_gaz
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| posted on 12/11/15 at 10:19 PM |
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That's a very kind offer Mark.
I'll sort out some material and be in touch.
Thank you
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mark chandler
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| posted on 13/11/15 at 08:23 PM |
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I sent drawings of the tubes I wanted to this chap on eBay
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Tube-Bender-Limited?_trksid=p2047675.l2563
Cut lengths and bent rear hoop and side bars in CDS all turned up a few days later exactly as requested, just allow a few inches extra on length, a
very good service.
Regards Mark
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