bikecarbfred
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posted on 23/6/19 at 06:54 AM |
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Help running in re-build
Okay so far it is looking good but I have been taking step by step very very slowly.
After I ran in the cams for 20 minutes 2 k rpm, ive took the car out for a drive 3 times.
each time ive let it get up to temp then drove the car back home.
so all in all ive only been driving it in 5 minute spells.
in those three drives ive been driving it round a block of houses, so ive been accelerating (2500-3000rpm) and decelerating on the over run quite
alot.
only in 1st, 2nd and 3 gears at most. not used 4th and 5th.
so ive been putting it underload using the weight of the car and opening up throttle when its at low revs so you can feel it working abit.
then letting go off accelerate when a corner comes and letting engine do 'alot of the breaking'
theres been zero smoke thus far. electrical , battery, starter motor issues have been sorted, small oil leaks on cylinder rubber gasket been
sorted.
is this classed as "babying it" cuz theres craploads of vids/peeps / professionals saying high rpm for "running in" is
critical. i cant do that because dont trust my ignition timing at top end.
Not sure what to do from now. So done 20 minz in garage, and 2-3 miles driving.
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CosKev3
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posted on 23/6/19 at 07:48 AM |
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I would be taking it on longer runs,rather than short ones tbh.
I wouldn't use high revs,but do use WOT quite alot but without revving the engine out.
And same as you have been doing let the engine do the braking on the over run as much as poss.
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chillis
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posted on 23/6/19 at 09:26 AM |
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The gentle running in you have been doing in short bursts should be good for the first hour of running, then you need to find some hills or long drags
climb up them in 4th or 5th to try and hold around high torque at low engne speeds as you want to load the ring pack, rings are made of hard material
and if they aren't worked hard they just polish the bores, leaving you with high bloy-by and oil cons. final part of the process is to repeat
the last bit but in lower gears and higher speeds up to say 5000/5500. Then drop the oil into a clean container to look for metal particles. If
you're going to go to the rolling road pretty soon the repeat the second and third parts of the run in process.
HTH
Never under estimate the ingenuity of an idiot!
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David Jenkins
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posted on 23/6/19 at 09:49 AM |
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Running the engine at high-ish rpm when first starting up is to give the camshaft a chance to bed in without excessive wear (according to the Burtons
catalogue anyway!).
It was very nerve-wracking to do this when I'd just rebuilt my x-flow - and I don't think my neighbours were too impressed either...
they'd seen (and heard) me working on the car for years, and all of a sudden I'm sitting on the drive with a rather noisy engine roaring
away for quite a long while.
No-one actually complained though, which was nice...
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talkingshte
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posted on 24/6/19 at 07:32 AM |
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Yea, long runs so everything gets nice and warm, don't sit at steady rpm for ages, use the revs a bit but not going mental. As said you want to
bed the rings into the bore and not glaze the liners. I wouldn't be putting it under extreme load for the first 600miles or so, then drop the
oil and you're good to go.
You are using a running in oil yea?
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bikecarbfred
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posted on 24/6/19 at 11:17 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by talkingshte
Yea, long runs so everything gets nice and warm, don't sit at steady rpm for ages, use the revs a bit but not going mental. As said you want to
bed the rings into the bore and not glaze the liners. I wouldn't be putting it under extreme load for the first 600miles or so, then drop the
oil and you're good to go.
You are using a running in oil yea?
using joe gibbs lol break in oil hmm 5w-30 BR30
i noticed it things out alot when its fully hot.
was getting around 20-24psi when idle.
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bikecarbfred
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posted on 13/7/19 at 04:12 PM |
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https://www.quora.com/How-do-I-properly-break-in-a-car-after-engine-rebuild
the engine builder got three votes up.
beat the hell out of it he says.
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