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Author: Subject: R1 Exhaust Manifold for Locost
ChrisS

posted on 19/9/05 at 12:30 PM Reply With Quote
R1 Exhaust Manifold for Locost

Hi

Can anyone advise where is the best place to buy an exhaust manifold for an R1 Locost.
Im looking for an equal length spec manifold and do have a tight budget.

Many Thanks
ChrisS

http://www.kitcars-forsale.com
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Description

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Hellfire

posted on 19/9/05 at 12:44 PM Reply With Quote
MK! Well tried, well tested, well experienced and well proven... £300-£400 but call or email to confirm.


http://www.mkengineering.co.uk

[Edited on 19-9-05 by Hellfire]






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smart51

posted on 19/9/05 at 12:50 PM Reply With Quote
MNR. www.mnrltd.co.uk
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kingr

posted on 19/9/05 at 02:26 PM Reply With Quote
Or build your own, like this -

exhaust - tasty
exhaust - tasty


kingr

[Edited on 19/9/05 by kingr]

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kingr

posted on 19/9/05 at 02:36 PM Reply With Quote
exhaust 2
exhaust 2

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Mad Dave

posted on 19/9/05 at 02:44 PM Reply With Quote
Kingr - I'm impressed!!!
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kingr

posted on 19/9/05 at 03:02 PM Reply With Quote
Cheers Dave!
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mike-ktm

posted on 19/9/05 at 04:13 PM Reply With Quote
kingr, where did you buy all the suff to do that ? Really nice job. How much did it cost you to do, how did you work out equal lengths, bends etc.

Cheers,

Mike

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kingr

posted on 19/9/05 at 04:36 PM Reply With Quote
I bought the mandrel bends and straight from a milking equipment supply company (Hygenic Process Equipment if I remember correct). Came to somewhere under £100, and I bought about 3 or 4 too many ells! It's all in 316L, so it's top quality stainless.

The collector and link pipe (not shown) were bought from an exhaust parts company (Custom Chrome, again, if I remember correctly).

I drafted out the pipe routing by using bits of brake pipe (all the same length) bolted to the block and bent to the correct radius using a template. I then built up each header by working from the manifold, carefully tacking up the sections of pipe, using the brake pipe sections as templates.

Took me far less time than I expected - probably about a weekend and a couple of evenings.

It's covered over 2500 miles so far, and no sign of any cracks yet.

Kingr

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mike-ktm

posted on 19/9/05 at 04:41 PM Reply With Quote
mig or tig weld ?

did you just make them all to suit the longest pipe (eg most forward cylinder) ?

Cheers,

Mike

P.S. any websites for the companies ?

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marc n

posted on 19/9/05 at 07:32 PM Reply With Quote
the gains you get with equal or near equal primarys is quite impressive especially if you go 4 - 2 -1 we have gained in back to back test 5 hp over a 4 -1 manifold on a blade and 7hp on an r1 all tests done on the same day at the same rolling road who incidently i would recommend to all in the yorkshire area Alwyn Kershaws just near elvington
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mike-ktm

posted on 19/9/05 at 08:15 PM Reply With Quote
further to my earlier questions kingr, what size pipe did you use ? 1.5" ?

How did you do the section which bolts to the head ?

Cheers,

Mike

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kingr

posted on 20/9/05 at 10:17 AM Reply With Quote
Cheers for the comments guys.

Yes, I used 1.5" tube. 2.5" for the link pipe, reducing (very slightly) to 65mm (or whatever the weird metric size of the R1 end can inlet is).

I had an old manifold for an R1, so I cut the manifold end bits and retainers off that and used them as the first section. If I'd had access to a lathe, I'd probably have machined them.

I TIG welded them (well, I had to justify buying my nice TIG set somehow !) with 316L filler. I believe that MIG may produce a slightly brittle weld, but I could be wrong.

I laid out the most forward tube first which dictated where the collector would go.

Kingr

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