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Author: Subject: Faulty immobiliser!!
Monty2556

posted on 25/8/15 at 07:32 PM Reply With Quote
Faulty immobiliser!!

Help needed!! I've got a Locost with a 1600 xflow and wiring loom from a 1977 Mexico. It's been fitted with an immobiliser by the previous owner which has developed a fault. In any event it's been a pain all along!! What I want to do is to bypass the immobiliser to get back to being able to start the car without any fuss. It's also got a battery immobiliser hidden under the dash board so still secure.

The coil has + and - cables disappearing off into the loom. Also coming out of the loom is a cable which goes directly to the distributor. How can I "re wire" the circuit so I can just use the ignition key to start the car?

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bi22le

posted on 25/8/15 at 07:54 PM Reply With Quote
Personally I would not bother adding more wires in to bypass, certainly not for long term.

You need to cut the immobiliser out. Its pretty simple.

1) find the main immob unit. You can do this by tracing back the wires that are coming off of the back of the touch pad \ LED.
2) there will be many wires coming out of it. Dont panic. 2 wires per immob cut (very rarely you will have 4 per wire, you may have 3 on the ignition cut as one is the ignition sensing wire) You need to chase all of the wires and re join the cuts they make.

Basically standard a wire (starter for example) will be cut then with the 2 ends now created the immob wires willbe joined. THis is adding the immob box in series and therefore allowing it to interupt.

All immob wires will be black (if CAT2)

Additional to 2, maybe 3, seperate immob cuts (normally a combination of starter, idnition, fuel pump, distrib supply) you will have 2 X 12V power supply wires, 2 X earth wires, an LED and an override fob \ switch.

For me on a kit car, I could have it off within 30 mins. Take your time and solder up anything you cut.

Far more simpler than running new wires.





Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!

Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1

Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I

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Monty2556

posted on 25/8/15 at 09:02 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks for all your advice but how easy would it be to bypass the immobiliser using additional wiring. The unit is buried deep under the dashboard and it's a b***h to get at. Even then, I'm not sure my autoelectric skills up to it!!
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twybrow

posted on 25/8/15 at 09:27 PM Reply With Quote
I would follow the advice above. You cant add wires without understanding where to add to, and that would require you tracing the current wiring surely?! Do it properly once, not badly several times!
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Monty2556

posted on 25/8/15 at 09:29 PM Reply With Quote
Just found the wiring diagram for the unit and it seems easier than I thought. I'll find out soon enough!!

Thanks for all the advice.

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bi22le

posted on 25/8/15 at 09:48 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Monty2556
Thanks for all your advice but how easy would it be to bypass the immobiliser using additional wiring. The unit is buried deep under the dashboard and it's a b***h to get at. Even then, I'm not sure my autoelectric skills up to it!!


I genuinely think that if you are not confident following wires and sniping them then rewiring is out of the question.

There could be 1,2 or 3 cuts to any number of circuits. We dont know what, where and how your running your car. It would be really hard to just tell you to run wires from A to B.

But, as this is LCB I will give you some advice.

To hot wire your car assuming its a basic carbed Xflow:

1) Disconnect the supply side (pos) from the fuel pump and run a wire from the battery positive to that terminal. This will get your fuel pump working.
2) Disconnect the supply to your Ignition coil and run a wire from the battery positive to that terminal. This will get you spark powered up.
3) Disconnect the supply to your starter motor (the signal wire not the main think one) and run a wire from the battery positive to that terminal. This will crank the car.

The reason I say to disconnect the terminal is because I dont know your car and dont want to start a fire in your garage!

Simples.





Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!

Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1

Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I

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Monty2556

posted on 25/8/15 at 10:46 PM Reply With Quote
From the wiring diagram it looks like there's two wires cut. Circuit 1 to immobilise the ignition and/or fuel pump and circuit 2 to immobilise the starter motor solenoid. The other wires to the unit are 2 x earth and 2 x live. Hopefully it'll be clear when I take the unit out. Unfortunately there's no colour coding on the immobiliser wires,

Thanks for the advice on "hot wiring". Promise I won't use it indiscriminately!!

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