marco
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| posted on 5/6/14 at 10:16 PM |
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GSXR no power to fuel pump?
I've been re-wiring my GSXR1000 k2 Indy and at the same time I will be fitting a new set of Koso dash clocks.
Things done so far,
Earthed the side stand wire.
Fitted a relay to switch the clutch switch on push start.
removed original clocks and all wires to the multiplug.
The engine will turn over and there is power to the fuel pump relay but no 12volts from the relay to the fuel pump wire on cranking.
Now I haven't connected the new clocks yet and therefore the blue neutral signal wire from the fuse/relay box isn't going to anything but
I'm not sure this would be the cause as the gear position sensor feed is still going to the ecu.
From what I understand from the wiring diagram is that the ECU actually controls the relay using yellow/black and red/blue and orange/white are both
power into it and yellow red is the feed to the pump.
My thoughts are the ecu isn't closing the relay because I have missed closing one of the safety circuits somewhere?
I'm no expert in wiring diagrams so if anyone can advise which circuit/condition the ECU needs to see before activating the fuel pump relay that
would help.
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marco
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| posted on 5/6/14 at 11:05 PM |
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Found some info on the www which I need to check out,,
"Ground the y/b wire and see if it activates the relay and pump
The Ecu will not ground the wire in gear with sidestand down, kill switch off , tip over switch triggered .
Or
"The ignition switch has a 100 ohm resistor in the Orange/Yellow bridged to an earth wire that runs to the ECM. It's an el cheapo theft
deterrent. Your switches must have the same resistance or it won't start."
It's possible I have removed a resistor in some of the wiring that I've shortened and not noticed this, anyone know if this was required
on the K2 model year wiring?
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Sloan85
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| posted on 6/6/14 at 04:59 AM |
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I had the same issue in that everything worked but no power to fuel pump. The ignition had a resistance of 100 ohms to stop cutting the wires and hot
wiring. You need a resistor between a couple of the wires. I had the resistor installed but there was a direct short due to the soldering poking
through the heatshrink. That may be your issue.
According to my build diary entry it was the orange/yellow and black/white that had the resistor between them.
Cheers
James
BUild Diary
[Edited on 6/6/14 by Sloan85]
http://mkindygsxr.blogspot.co.uk
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motorcycle_mayhem
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| posted on 6/6/14 at 01:53 PM |
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If the ECU isn't powering up the relay, then yes, you're right it sounds like one of the interlocks.
Make sure the drum is giving a neutral, since if this isn't doing so, you have the added complication that the clutch interlock will prevent a
fuel pump power-up. Think bike, the ECU won't be happy if you're attemting a start in gear with the clutch out.
Should be 100 ohm, connected as described. The resistance is in the ignition switch, so if you've taken that out, that's your problem.
If it was me, I'd leave the original clock plug in the loom. Really helps later (or now) when you have a problem with something, just plug it in
and get the error code.
The K1-K6 loomery is very simple, so if anything is amiss take heart, it's usually very obvious.
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marco
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| posted on 6/6/14 at 02:34 PM |
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Thanks
I have found the problem this morning there was a piece of wire put in at the factory with a 150ohm (measured by my multimeter) in the feed to the ecu
and across to an earth as Sloan85 mentioned too.
I am going to re connect the original clock loom but only connect the FI wire, power and earth and possibly anything else useful for the very reason
you mentioned, I can then plug the original clocks in and read the fault codes.
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