killerferret666
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| posted on 6/8/14 at 08:18 AM |
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So how did you test some aspects prior to the IVA
Just interested in what some people did.
For instance I've bought a DB meter and gastester for emissions and noise just so I have some idea of how it will go. If all the DB killers get
noise down but emissions sky rocket, ill take DB killers out and try and pass emissions instead, as its much easier and quicker to go for a retest
with the noise lower.
But what about front brakes locking first? did people drive down their street and slam the brakes on?
Also brake bias, set it up with what feels right and hope?
Mirrors (may be a bit different on locost as generally you can adjust mirror there easily and visibility is much better.
Just after some basic tips / checks for the more tricky areas.
Building DDR GT4
Miami Gt4 Blog - Click Here
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pekwah1
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| posted on 6/8/14 at 08:24 AM |
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Hi mate,
Brakes - i have a garage in a block, so drove up and down there slamming the brakes.
Mirrors - didn't test myself, just checked i could see behind me (i think there's quite a few people on here who setup the IVA mirror test
themselves though).
I decided to bite the bullet and just book the IVA.
I figured i'd be spending forever finishing and testing, but if i just book the IVA and fail, at least i know what is wrong and what needs
doing.
Regards,
Andy
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killerferret666
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| posted on 6/8/14 at 08:32 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by pekwah1
Hi mate,
Brakes - i have a garage in a block, so drove up and down there slamming the brakes.
Mirrors - didn't test myself, just checked i could see behind me (i think there's quite a few people on here who setup the IVA mirror test
themselves though).
I decided to bite the bullet and just book the IVA.
I figured i'd be spending forever finishing and testing, but if i just book the IVA and fail, at least i know what is wrong and what needs
doing.
Regards,
Andy
Hi Andy,
Sort of the same approach I've gone for. I'm beginning to fit the final parts and just keep tweaking others. I need to get the test done
so I can get a list of what actually doesn't meet the required standard.
Being a tintop with windscreen and wipers etc.... there are more aspects to test as well, but to be honest its just the big ones I care about getting
right first time.
Indirect vision
Brakes
Emissions
Everything else is just some work and someone checking you've done it correctly, whilst the above 3 (in my case anyway) could do with a way of
being tested.
Hopefully I don't need to get up too fast to lock the brakes being a much heavier vehicle at about 900Kg
Building DDR GT4
Miami Gt4 Blog - Click Here
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40inches
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| posted on 6/8/14 at 08:33 AM |
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With regard to the exhaust. I took a decibel killer with me and fitted it after passing emissions, but failing noise test. Then passed 1st time 
Mirrors: Use Convex all round, and mount them as high as you can, I extended the centre mirror by 50mm, that mirror was almost enough without the side
mirrors
 
Description
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killerferret666
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| posted on 6/8/14 at 08:44 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by 40inches
With regard to the exhaust. I took a decibel killer with me and fitted it after passing emissions, but failing noise test. Then passed 1st time
Mirrors: Use Convex all round, and mount them as high as you can, I extended the centre mirror by 50mm, that mirror was almost enough without the side
mirrors
Description
Unfortunately on mine ....no centre mirror
Thanks very much for the tip on the DB killer, currently I don't have it at the end of pipe (unable to due to S bend) but I think id be able to
fit it before the S bend pretty quickly...ill have to test myself on it. The engine is EFI so im hoping it controls the emissions well anyway...or
that will be a sensor problem on mine.
[Edited on 6/8/14 by killerferret666]
Building DDR GT4
Miami Gt4 Blog - Click Here
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loggyboy
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| posted on 6/8/14 at 08:47 AM |
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Take it to a friendly Mot Place.
Ask them to do an pre mot inspection.
Mistral Motorsport
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kingster996
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| posted on 6/8/14 at 09:14 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by loggyboy
Take it to a friendly Mot Place.
Ask them to do an pre mot inspection.
That would be OK, but what if you have no trailer (or even a towbar)?
I used to be indecisive, but now I'm not so sure
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loggyboy
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| posted on 6/8/14 at 09:28 AM |
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Book it in on VIN - theres nothing to say you cant actually MoT it, even pre registration. As long as they don't actually run it through the
system.
Mistral Motorsport
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ReMan
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| posted on 6/8/14 at 09:31 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by kingster996
quote:
Originally posted by loggyboy
Take it to a friendly Mot Place.
Ask them to do an pre mot inspection.
That would be OK, but what if you have no trailer (or even a towbar)?
Then you should not have embarked on such a project so ill informed
Or borrow your tin top plates and risk it
Or book it for a real MOT , but risk being stuck with annual MOT's
Or hire a beavertail
Or jsut take it for IVA bed your brakes in well on the way ;-) and get your fix list,
[Edited on 6/8/14 by ReMan]
www.plusnine.co.uk
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kingster996
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| posted on 6/8/14 at 10:05 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ReMan
Then you should not have embarked on such a project so ill informed
haha - yeah, I keep telling myself the same thing!
I used to be indecisive, but now I'm not so sure
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johnemms
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| posted on 6/8/14 at 10:20 AM |
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I used escort back axle - Drums & M16 calipers - used extensively by ford - correct balance already built in.
Made a 'banana shape' Db killer - worked very well.
Emissions were age related so visual only - 
Mirrors - purchased off someone who had passed already with them.
Rule of thumb :
Everything should be secured with tie wraps -
If in doubt - cover it -
Remember a mechanic should be able to replace covering materials.
Own chassis & Build - First time pass!!
"7's" aren't really "cars", they are 'experiences"
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Jenko
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| posted on 6/8/14 at 10:38 AM |
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Good thread, and I'm going through the same thing at the moment....Must confess to running the car up and a down a small side road by my house
to check brakes, but I still can't work out which of the 4 wheel are locking first.
Other issues I'm having
Not sure if handbrake is up to it as I can't test that either.
Head light alignment needs checking
Self centering steering - This one is really getting me hot and bothered, No idea how they test is and whether my car will pass. I've dialled in
as much toe out as I dare, but the car feels horrid at the front.
Emissions were done when I got the engine rolling roaded, so ok with that
MY BLOG - http://westfieldv8.blogspot.co.uk/
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Irony
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| posted on 6/8/14 at 10:56 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Jenko
Good thread, and I'm going through the same thing at the moment....Must confess to running the car up and a down a small side road by my house
to check brakes, but I still can't work out which of the 4 wheel are locking first.
Other issues I'm having
Not sure if handbrake is up to it as I can't test that either.
Head light alignment needs checking
Self centering steering - This one is really getting me hot and bothered, No idea how they test is and whether my car will pass. I've dialled in
as much toe out as I dare, but the car feels horrid at the front.
Emissions were done when I got the engine rolling roaded, so ok with that
With the self centering doesn't the regulations say 'the vehicle should show evidence of self centring'. To test this I am going to
drive the car round a corner and let the wheel go and see if it straightens out!
I can also confirm that leaving the DB killer out, passing the emissions test and then putting the DB killer in is except able. Or it was at a the
last IVA I went to.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 6/8/14 at 11:41 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by johnemms
I used escort back axle - Drums & M16 calipers - used extensively by ford - correct balance already built in.
No guarantee of being correct a different vehicle has different weight distribution.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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britishtrident
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| posted on 6/8/14 at 11:53 AM |
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The important thing about checking the brake distribution is to test in the dry on a clean, dry, smooth and level bit of tarmac as high friction
between the tyre and the road surface gives the maximum weight transfer front to rear.
Test start testing from very slow speed, once you have confidence you have the bias in the correct ball park build the speed up steering a little to
once side may help.
It is best to have an observer watching -- chalk lines on the tyres may help.
Get the observer to check both sides as if the corner weights are not correct it will effect when each wheel locks.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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davidimurray
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| posted on 6/8/14 at 03:20 PM |
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My tester advised to use the cheapest OEM pads you could get as they bed in quickly and are more than adequate for the test. Performance pads, he
said, ned a lot more bedding in and heat which is diffcult to do even on the rollers.
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killerferret666
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| posted on 7/8/14 at 01:22 PM |
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i live in a relatively quiet road so at some point I will have to make it unquiet and drive back and forth a few time to take the rust surface off the
discs and then give it a harder stomp on the pedal.
What I did do was jack it up on to 4 axle stands and turned the wheel with someone pushing the brake when the fronts locked I went and turned the
rears to make sure i still could.
Headlights is another one I have done against a garage door but i suspect ill need to adjust on the day. For me Ill leave the headlight covers off so
they can be easily adjusted and just say to the tester at the time rather then waste his time.
Building DDR GT4
Miami Gt4 Blog - Click Here
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nickm
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| posted on 8/8/14 at 07:00 PM |
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Hi
Did SVA a few years ago and really used it to make a fix list, its a bit defeatist but with a retest being £90 by the time youve taken it to a MOT
station for the next 3 years its going to be in excess of £150 and bought decibel measures etc just bite the bullet and do it !
Make sure the safety critical parts are as well checked as can be and most importantly dont forget to enjoy the drive there and back.
My test will be in Beverley 90 miles across the Lincolnshire Wolds great roads and quiet for the inevitable final fettle, A brilliant day out pass or
failand then the drive back !
I would make up the mirror diagram on the road or space with axle stands etc so you dont drill unnecessary holes in the bodywork.
Nick M
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The Black Flash
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| posted on 8/8/14 at 10:33 PM |
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Ahhh it's getting close then Mr. Ferret
For brakes, yeah I did the "drive up and down the street slamming them on" thing. I found the adjustment point where the rears started to
lock first, then backed it off a bit. Takes a few goes, it's ok if you have understanding neighbours!
Mirrors - I just got them so I could see behind, then just gave slight adjustments on the day. As long as you can see directly behind you and they
have some adjustment, they'll be fine.
Headlights - did on the garage wall but needed to adjust on the day - tester said that you couldn't really do it properly without their machine
so he expected people to do them there.
After all the trouble I had with noise and emissions, the only time I think I saw the emissions being affected was the HC when I had a great wodge of
wire wool up there. It didn't seem to make any difference to the rest of the readings, but I think the HCs collect on surfaces. That's
why they do an HC hang up check which I think is to make sure there's no residual HC on the probe. The normal db killers didn't seem to
make any difference. I think.
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