NS Dev
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| posted on 1/6/04 at 08:39 PM |
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Peugeot wheels (1.9 gti) on ford hubs??
Has anybody fitted Peugeot 205 1.9 gti alloys on Ford hubs out there. I have done it before but always just bodged 60 degree seat wheelnuts on and
checked them every so often for tightness. Fancy doing it right on the locost so wondered if anybody knew the right way to do it?
The pug uses a sleeve bolt with a flat washer but the "sleeve" is only about 1.5mm bigger then the stud (about 13.5mm dia) and there are
no sleeve nuts available which fit, to put these wheels onto the Ford studded hubs.
Any ideas?
(PS I already have the wheels and they look pretty good on a seven which is why I want to use them)
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ady8077
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| posted on 1/6/04 at 09:01 PM |
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Hi
Demon Tweeks list a range of wheel nuts, are these any good?
You could ask Sylva if your going to any of the shows as they used to have pug gti wheels on the Phenix demonstrator
Adrian
[Edited on 1/6/04 by ady8077]
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givemethebighammer
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| posted on 1/6/04 at 10:10 PM |
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I fitted a set to my seven but the offset (ET19) was a little too much for the car and the wheels stuck out of the arches. Ended up selling the
Peugeot wheels and buying a set of alloys from findit with an offset of ET35. Shame really liked the Peugeot wheels as well.
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NS Dev
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| posted on 1/6/04 at 11:08 PM |
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Doh, and I did hope nobody would say that!!
A mate fitted a set to his westfield last year (narrow bodied one) and they went under the arches ok (just, maybe a bit close for the sva, we had to
move the cycle wings out a bit but the rear was alright) but I did wonder about this one!
I have a set of Sierra Azura 5 spoke allys as well which will go on if the Pug ones are no good.
I guess it will be best to try once I have the bodywork on and before I worry about wheelnuts.
As you say the Pug ones do look good though, a bit minilightish I suppose but for "locost"!!
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stressy
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| posted on 2/6/04 at 07:22 AM |
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They may fit.
I have said wheels on my car for a couple of thousand miles. The offset is 19mm hich is my preffered for the front end, better feel and trn but
obviously large scrub means a few wanders when playing on the bumpy stuff.
As it happens mine are also a good fit on the rear.
Mine were fitting in the way that you suggest and have faired ok, i also know of other people who have done the same.
The main problem is that they DO NOT locate on the spigot of the hub, so if you dont make up spacers you will be running on the bolts!!!!
I choose them because they gaav egood ground clearance, looked smart, were cheap and light for their size. (185.55.15 on 6x15, 17.5Kg)
I will be changing mine in the next couple of months whe the engine cahnge is complete for 6x13 Rs 4 spokes with 185/70/13 yoko A)21R, lighter,
stronger and fit on spigot.
Another pointer is youll need probably need to fit extra long wheel studs.
Hope this has been useful info, i will stick a piccy in my archive with the wheels fitted.
Cheers
Chris
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stressy
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| posted on 2/6/04 at 07:27 AM |
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see PUGWHEELS in my archive....
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NS Dev
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| posted on 2/6/04 at 08:36 AM |
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Stressy, did you make up adaptors to locate the wheels on the hubs or just run on the studs?
A friend and I fitted a set of these to a Westy last year and they did look good, and were cheap (well free!)
I am just checking with a friend of a friend who has a machine shop with CNC lathe to see if he can do me some steel 60 degree tapered washers, but
may just bolt to the wheel directly like you did (and like I have before!)
cheers
Nat
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stressy
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| posted on 2/6/04 at 10:19 AM |
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Alright Nat,
As just ran them as they came, as have others, i just keep as eye on them. rally design and speedshack do cheapish open nuts which have a 60 degree
head, you can just go for them.
Chris
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NS Dev
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| posted on 2/6/04 at 10:36 AM |
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Just had another think about it, and I will, you are right. If I make washers, I will lose the centring effect of the tapers into the alloy wheel and
with no centre on the hub as such the wheel could run off-centre a bit so, as you say, just stick the standard 60 deg nuts on I think!
[Edited on 2/6/04 by NS Dev]
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 2/6/04 at 06:42 PM |
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Not sure if its been mentioned, the centre bore of the pug wheel is 65mm, the ford is 63.5mm, so you have no centring action from that either. You can
get bore sleeves to take up the slack, but I dont know where from.
I know it has been done as a formula 27 I posted in the for sale section had 309 Gti wheels fitted, it's still not sold - I will try and get a
wheel off and have a look
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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ady8077
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| posted on 2/6/04 at 07:01 PM |
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Hi
I've seen sizing rings in the local alloy wheel shop for the center hub, I think they were only plastic and were for their unifit alloys
Adrian
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paulf
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| posted on 2/6/04 at 09:25 PM |
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Why not machine a 60 deg angle for standard wheel nuts using a large centre drill?
Paul
quote:
Originally posted by NS Dev
Just had another think about it, and I will, you are right. If I make washers, I will lose the centring effect of the tapers into the alloy wheel and
with no centre on the hub as such the wheel could run off-centre a bit so, as you say, just stick the standard 60 deg nuts on I think!
[Edited on 2/6/04 by NS Dev]
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 2/6/04 at 09:30 PM |
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A big drill may not be stable enough, but a lathe groung domestic water tap washer face resurfacer might work?
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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NS Dev
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| posted on 3/6/04 at 07:43 AM |
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Good idea Mark!
Might try that one, was going to use a 60 degree morse taper countersink tool I have in my pillar drill but the tap seat tool sounds nice and
handy!
I was just worried about cutting seat direct into the alloy as wheels with 60 degree nuts normally have steel seat inserts in the wheel. Those that
don't have steel washers of some sort.
Having said that, it appears that quite a few people run with seats cut into the alloy with no problems so should be ok.
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ned
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| posted on 3/6/04 at 12:28 PM |
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I wouldn't worry about the wheel not centring on the hub, just check the wheel nuts are tight every now and again. a few years back I ran a set
of dolomite sprint alloys on the triumph toledo. the hub didn't have the same sigot as the sprint hub and using the correct nuts i just torqued
them up. I checked them a few times over the first few weeks and then a few months later. I never had any problems at all.
I guess for complete peace of mind the sleeves mentioned above might be a good idea if not too expensive.
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
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paulf
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| posted on 3/6/04 at 09:13 PM |
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I would use a centre drill and would make a plug to fit the stud holes with a hole drilled in it to suit the pilot on the centre drill. It would not
be possible to use a normal twist drill.
I would then use the ford wheel nuts with a loose 60deg washer as fitted to escorts and capris etc.
Paul.
quote:
Originally posted by Mark Allanson
A big drill may not be stable enough, but a lathe groung domestic water tap washer face resurfacer might work?
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NS Dev
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| posted on 3/6/04 at 10:40 PM |
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Thanks for all the ideas, one way or another I'll get it sorted no problem now thanks!!
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phelpsa
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| posted on 16/6/04 at 07:09 PM |
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So, can you fit them with just 60° normal nuts? I have not really understood this.
Adam
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NS Dev
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| posted on 17/6/04 at 07:43 AM |
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my final descision is to make centre spacing rings and then fit them using standard 60 deg nuts (not the ford Ghia ones, they need a much bigger hole)
and countersink straight onto the alloy. Probably not really correct, but lots of people have done it (including me in the past) with no problems.
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