red_five
|
 posted on 19/12/02 at 08:18 PM |
|
|
Roll Bars -To weld or not to weld
In the book it tells you to bolt the roll over bar to the rear suspension top plates. How do you do this as the bolts will pass through tubes at 45
degrees?
Can the roll over bar be welded directly to the plate? Any problems with this?
Also - it is best to buy a bar pre made - MK is about £25 - I imagine getting someone to bend the bigger tube will be expensive anyway.
|
|
|
|
|
chrisg
|
| posted on 19/12/02 at 08:35 PM |
|
|
I got mine from MK and it's welded on....
BUT
I'm not saying this is the best way to do it as I'm in a bad run of "answering"form. So this is what I did only
Cheers
Chris
Note to all: I really don't know when to leave well alone. I tried to get clever with the mods, then when they gave me a lifeline to see the
error of my ways, I tried to incite more trouble via u2u. So now I'm banned, never to return again. They should have done it years ago!
|
|
|
interestedparty
|
| posted on 19/12/02 at 09:21 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by chrisg
I got mine from MK and it's welded on....
Sounds good to me, it's what I'm going to do
John
As some day it may happen that a victim must be found,
I've got a little list-- I've got a little list
Of society offenders who might well be underground,
And who never would be missed-- who never would be missed!
|
|
|
jollygreengiant
|
| posted on 19/12/02 at 09:48 PM |
|
|
The whole point to an anti-roll bar is that it attempts to compensate for excessive compresion of one wheel by lifting the opposite wheel assmbly
there by making either the front or rear "squat lower togive more grip & prevent a wheel lifting of the ground. If the Bar is welded to the Chasis
then it cannot full-fill its function and just becomes another "spring" albeit torsional.
How about a bit of Lateral thinking. The anti roll bar is round and usually held on a clamp around a rubber bush. weld a flat plate say 3mm to the
underside of the tube but mounted to either the outside or inside with a small bracing fillet, then drill two holes to take the mountin braket.
If the anti-rol bar is welded directly to the chassis then there aint no point to having it.
Hope you understand it. Enjoy
oh chris all answers a worthy. & if I misunderstood your reply then sorry.
Sorry about the spellings but i blam e the lurgi
[Edited on 19/12/02 by jollygreengiant]
|
|
|
chrisg
|
| posted on 19/12/02 at 10:15 PM |
|
|
quote:
if I misunderstood your reply then sorry.
I think you did mate - we're talking about ROLL bars rather than ANTI roll bars
Roll bars stop your head from being bashed in when you dissapear into the scenery.
Anti roll bars are what you're on about!!
LOL
Cheers
Chris
Note to all: I really don't know when to leave well alone. I tried to get clever with the mods, then when they gave me a lifeline to see the
error of my ways, I tried to incite more trouble via u2u. So now I'm banned, never to return again. They should have done it years ago!
|
|
|
paulbeyer
|
| posted on 19/12/02 at 10:15 PM |
|
|
Hello Mr. JollyGreen I think Chris G and Mr. Red mean roll over bar as in some form of protection if the car turns turtle, as opposed to suspension
components.
I was planning to bolt my rollover bar to the chassis with high tensile bolts. Anyone have any thoughts good or bad?
7 out of 10 people suffer with hemorrhoids. Does that mean the other 3 enjoy them?
|
|
|
Stu16v
|
| posted on 19/12/02 at 11:08 PM |
|
|
Cant really see the point (IMO) in welding a plate to the roll bar just so you can bolt the roll bar to the car. May as well weld the bar straight to
the chassis! After all, I personally cant think of a reason why you would need to make the bar removable. If you were unlucky enough to damage it I
think that would be the least of your troubles.......
Dont just build it.....make it!
|
|
|
jollygreengiant
|
| posted on 19/12/02 at 11:28 PM |
|
|
Sorry lads I'm A TURKEY
|
|
|
Findlay234
|
| posted on 20/12/02 at 08:35 AM |
|
|
hmmm, christmas is on you then is it?
i dont like the sound of jollygreenturkey though.
[Edited on 20/12/02 by Findlay234]
|
|
|
David Jenkins
|
| posted on 20/12/02 at 08:36 AM |
|
|
My rollbar is bolted on, simply because I wouldn't have got the chassis powder coated with it fitted! (it wouldn't have fitted through the oven).
I have 8 x 8mm bolts on the suspension mounting plates (4 each side) and 4 x 10mm bolts on the bracing bar (2 each side) down in the rear-quarter of
the boot space. All bolts are best-quality HT I could find.
If I hit anything hard enough to knock that off, I'm in the deep and dirty stuff anyway!
rgds,
David
|
|
|
Dick Axtell
|
 posted on 20/12/02 at 11:47 AM |
|
|
Hi All,
This has been an annoying hang-point for me, too. Initially, I also intended to fix the roll-over bar with bolts, plus backstays bolted to brackets
welded on to the rear of the chassis (those 2 inclined tubes between lower & upper rails).
Mine is also from MK. Problem: how to drill holes through the r/o bar attachment plates? Because of the 45 degree angle, at this point, I would need
an ultra-long drill-bit to make the holes. Only alternative will be to remove the temporarily fitted r/o bar, upturn it & drill holes from the
bottom.
That's it!! Now to figure how to line these holes up with corresponding holes in those chassis suspension plates.
What dia bolts are recommended here?
|
|
|
Dick Axtell
|
| posted on 20/12/02 at 11:52 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
I have 8 x 8mm bolts on the suspension /quote]
Hi David,
Having just re-read your reply, noted your bolt dia. Is 8mm sufficient for this application?
Work-in-Progress: Changed to Zetec + T9. Still trying!!
|
|
|
philgregson
|
| posted on 20/12/02 at 01:38 PM |
|
|
I've been pondering this one too.
All but one of the bolt locations can be bolted straight through. However for strength I have decided that I will drill through for an insert and
weld it in at the top and the bottom. I can either use a threaded insert or put a nut on the bottom.
In the rear outside corner the inclined 3/4" round tube prevents this. If I had thought about it earlier I could have inserted a threaded tube in
the same way and welded the 3/4 on afterwards.
However instead I will drill the top plate for a threaded tube and weld it from the top and weld the bottom from the inside as far as I can reach.
Crap piccies in photo section ifd anyone interested - Ive not done it yet but they might clarify the above.
I think this will probably do the job.
Phil.
|
|
|
paulf
|
| posted on 20/12/02 at 10:57 PM |
|
|
I have bolted mine on and used 4 10mm bolts for the top mounts with machined spacers inside the tubes, at the back i fitted solid bungs to the bottom
of the rear stays and machined the ends to an angle to allow them to sit on the plates forming the corner of the rear chassis, I then drilled and
tapped these 12mm at an angle to allow the bolts to be inserted squarely from the underside. I have now got to decide how to attach the top harness
mounts and think i will use a horizontal tube with 4 tapped inserts welded in.
Paul.
quote:
Originally posted by Dick Axtell
Hi All,
This has been an annoying hang-point for me, too. Initially, I also intended to fix the roll-over bar with bolts, plus backstays bolted to brackets
welded on to the rear of the chassis (those 2 inclined tubes between lower & upper rails).
Mine is also from MK. Problem: how to drill holes through the r/o bar attachment plates? Because of the 45 degree angle, at this point, I would need
an ultra-long drill-bit to make the holes. Only alternative will be to remove the temporarily fitted r/o bar, upturn it & drill holes from the
bottom.
That's it!! Now to figure how to line these holes up with corresponding holes in those chassis suspension plates.
What dia bolts are recommended here?
|
|
|
Dick Axtell
|
| posted on 21/12/02 at 11:10 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by paulf
I have bolted mine on and used 4 10mm bolts for the top mounts with machined spacers inside the tubes,quote:
Paul, 10mm dia sounds better, for the foot-plate mounting, and I'll assess the possibility of fitting similar, machined inserts.
Dick
Work-in-Progress: Changed to Zetec + T9. Still trying!!
|
|
|
David Jenkins
|
| posted on 21/12/02 at 05:47 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Dick Axtell
quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
I have 8 x 8mm bolts on the suspension /quote]
Hi David,
Having just re-read your reply, noted your bolt dia. Is 8mm sufficient for this application?
Hi Dick,
I did do some research at the time - can't remember the exact numbers, but I'm happy that they're strong enough.
One factor is the bracing going to the back of the car, which means that the bar can't just rotate off (like the 'cheap' Westfield bars).
Someone queried how to fix the bolts - I drilled the 8mm hole through, then drilled the bottom one bigger. I then turned some inserts that were
welded in. This meant that I was able to do up the nuts to the proper torque without crushing the tube.
This was the other deciding factor - if I did this trick for 10mm bolts I was in danger of running out of tube width!
rgds,
David
[Edited on 21/12/02 by David Jenkins]
|
|
|
fastavatar.jpg){kind=avatar}
.jpg)
