d8mok
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| posted on 14/6/07 at 10:44 AM |
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camber settings
does anyone have the camber settings for my stuart taylor locoblade?
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JAG
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| posted on 14/6/07 at 10:49 AM |
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I set my Stuart Taylor at 0 degrees, some use -0.5 degrees.
There's unlikely to be much difference and it's much easier to set at 0, I used a spirit level held vertical on the wheel rim.
The spirit level has to have an auxilliary bubble for measuring perpendicularity - if you see what I mean.
I have a really nice neutral handling car, no understeer but provocable oversteer if you feel like a bit of adrenaline.
[Edited on 14/6/07 by JAG]
Justin
Who is this super hero? Sarge? ...No.
Rosemary, the telephone operator? ...No.
Penry, the mild-mannered janitor? ...Could be!
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 14/6/07 at 12:11 PM |
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Assuming you're on radial tyres and we're talking about the front wheels, you definitely want some -ve camber on there to maximise grip,
especially on track as you'll wear the outside edge of the tyre very quickly with zero camber (which will turn into effective positive camber as
soon as the car rolls).
My book chassis runs ~1.5 degrees camber at the front but could if anything do with a bit more running on Yoko 32's. Obviously with a live axle
its difficult to run any at the back, although it is possible by deforming the axle slightly using lines of weld to create a bit of -ve.
[Edited on 14/6/07 by ChrisGamlin]
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britishtrident
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| posted on 14/6/07 at 03:40 PM |
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A lot depends on the the use you put the car to , tryres and spring rates.
However try 1 degree negative with the vehicle in the normal laden condition --- then once you have the car on the road check the tyre temperatures
at 3 points accross the tread immediately after a typical run.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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NS Dev
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| posted on 14/6/07 at 04:08 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ChrisGamlin
Assuming you're on radial tyres and we're talking about the front wheels, you definitely want some -ve camber on there to maximise grip,
especially on track as you'll wear the outside edge of the tyre very quickly with zero camber (which will turn into effective positive camber as
soon as the car rolls).
My book chassis runs ~1.5 degrees camber at the front but could if anything do with a bit more running on Yoko 32's. Obviously with a live axle
its difficult to run any at the back, although it is possible by deforming the axle slightly using lines of weld to create a bit of -ve.
[Edited on 14/6/07 by ChrisGamlin]
Snap, I'm running about 1.75 deg neg on the front of my stuart taylor "book" chassis, with car engine, seems to work a treat so far,
loses grip both ends at the same time at that.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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NS Dev
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| posted on 14/6/07 at 04:12 PM |
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PS, cheap camber gauge, I have a piece of straight 1/2" bright mild steel, with a cheapish magnetic level stuck to it, and drilled and tapped M6
at one end, cut the the right length to span my wheel rims.
get the car dead level (using the same level! ) then put the bar onto the wheel and turn an m6 screw in yer tapped hole to get the bubble level.
m6 is 1mm pitch so count your number of turns away from "flush with the bar" and use a bit of simple trig to get your camber angle.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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Uphill Racer
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| posted on 14/6/07 at 09:00 PM |
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£23.00 for a digital spirit level at Lidl, reads down to 0.1 deg.
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