Howlor
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| posted on 30/7/11 at 07:35 PM |
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Garage Build
Evening All,
I need some help about rendering brick walls, does anybody know what you do around the window frames? I presume the top will be fine as it is against
the lintel but what happens down the sides of the window? Does the render butt up to the window frame?
Many thanks,
Steve
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stevegough
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| posted on 30/7/11 at 08:08 PM |
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I think you need to fit some extruded metal corners - gives a neat edge.
Something like
this....b+q kink
Luego Locost C20XE.
Build start: October 6th 2008.
IVA passed Jan 28th 2011.
First drive Feb 10th 2011.
First show: Stoneleigh 1st/2nd May 2011.
'Used up' first engine may 3rd 2011!
Back on the road with 2nd engine may 24th
First PASA mad drive 26/7/11
Sold to Mike in Methyr Tydvil 19/03/14
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 30/7/11 at 09:09 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by stevegough
I think you need to fit some extruded metal corners - gives a neat edge.
Something like
this....b+q kink
Those strips are uses along the bottom of the render to stop it about 1/2 a foot from ground level. Around windows you can render right up to the
glass though normally you would give a smooth coat of mortar round the window while doing the scratch coat which you let dry before doing the render
coat to the the rest of the wall, you just don't do any around the window and so it's dry it remains plain.
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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van cleef
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| posted on 30/7/11 at 09:38 PM |
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the in goes on the window do need a scratch coat as well as the main wall's but you do just render the top coat into the window and as
it's starting to set give it a light rub up with a sponge to take any trowel mark's out , leaving a textured finish.
you could use the stop beads bit not really needed mr whippy is thinking about drip beads which get fitted above the damp course .
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Chippy
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| posted on 30/7/11 at 10:04 PM |
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This is what you use on corners, just fix to the brick/block work, makes life so much easier. HTH Ray
Linky do
To make a car go faster, just add lightness. Colin Chapman - OR - fit a bigger engine. Chippy
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van cleef
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| posted on 31/7/11 at 05:10 AM |
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If you are going to use beads just make sure you use stainless steel one's rather than galvanised one's because if you leave any of the
galvanised one's exposed on the corner's you might get some rusting which will leave nice orange streak's.
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Howlor
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| posted on 31/7/11 at 09:03 PM |
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Thanks for the help guys. How do I finish the render up to the window frame? Do I butt it up to it or go right in to the opening then get a window to
suit the finished gap? I can see a problem if I put the window in first then render up to it as I won't then be able to replace it should I need
to. as the plasterboard on the inside will also be butted up to it!
Thanks,
Steve
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Chippy
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| posted on 31/7/11 at 09:40 PM |
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Steve the easiest way is to fit your window first, I assume that it would be a plastic type, and then complete your finishings. It's unlikely
that you would ever need to replace it, but if you had to then it's a case of cutting away the rendering to get it out. HTH Ray
To make a car go faster, just add lightness. Colin Chapman - OR - fit a bigger engine. Chippy
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Litemoth
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| posted on 31/7/11 at 10:49 PM |
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Put your windows in first ..I'm assuming there isn't a cavity.
Set the window back to give you a margin between the window and the face of the wall. You put beads (Quoin beads) up the sides and a bell cast bead
across the top - this sticks out clear of the window and proud of the rest of the wall to 'cast' the water off the wall an stop it
travelling down the window
You render the return between the corner and the window to encapsulate the window and it gives the water a harder job getting in. It's the way
its done. If you need to change the window then you take off the plaster/board inside.
Two coats are needed ....a scratch coat of about 10mm (rough the surface up as a key for the topcoat) and a final coat is about 5mm. Beads oftenm
come in a 15mm depth for this.
The bell cast bead is also used to form a skirt around the bottom of the wall...it casts the water off the wall and reduces the risk of water
penetrating the damp course.
I like the plastic stuff...available in the bigger B&Q's. Nobody in B&Q has a clue what they are though 
LINKY
[Edited on 31/7/11 by Litemoth]
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