Avoneer
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| posted on 6/12/05 at 12:31 AM |
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Children - my head hurts now.
Both rose joints are very high quality from TAD Ltd and will be both screwed in the same amount and shimmed with washers.
I'm sure they'll be fine and probably a lot better than some other Locost builds that I have seen.
Let's all smile and be happy.
Pat 
No trees were killed in the sending of this message.
However a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
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Fozzie
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| posted on 6/12/05 at 04:19 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Mark Allanson
"surely we are talking less than tenths of mm here,"
"surely we are talking less than tenths of mm here,"
"surely we are talking less than tenths of mm here,"
It quite a long time since imperial was used in machine shops, and even when it was, a 'tenth' always refered to a tenth of a thou (inch)
and only refered to when precission grinding.
Nope, sorry Mark, we only work in imperial, never metric in our workshop. And we also work to very tight tolerances which always include
'thou' and quite often smaller! And no, we don't do precision grinding. We also use boxes of shims exactly as Rorty describes!
Well done Pat! I will be following how they perform with keen interest!
ATB Fozzie
'Racing is Life!...anything before or after is just waiting'....Steve McQueen
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 6/12/05 at 08:29 AM |
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I used to work in a machine shop in the 80's, we were transfering to metric to get ISO acreditation (MOD work).
The boxes of shims were refered to a 'slips', ultra accurate, ground blocks used for comparative measuring
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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Syd Bridge
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| posted on 6/12/05 at 08:55 AM |
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Surely you could adjust castor by unequal turns of the joint. Done in racing all the time, for fine tuning.
Just need to shim them differently to account for the differences in slack. A little movement won't hurt. A fingernail thickness is accurate
enough.
You don't have to be e member of MENSA to work this out. Then again, some are in no danger of an invite to that special club, either!
AS for the rodends..I use 10mmSKF's as a matter of course in the streetrod chassis I do. These ends are rated to over 6K lbs in tension.
That's each!!!! So, each rod end can carry 3-4 average locosts on its own. How strong do you need it to be?
If you can do the maths(and that is a big IF for one or two 'experts' here), you could get away with much smaller, but the SVA inspectors
get a bit peculiar with small, highly rated parts. In their words, "They just dont LOOK big enough, even if they are overstrength"
Therein lies the problem with the uneducated.
Syd.
It has been proven, that even a monkey can be taught to use a basic 3d CAD program, so only a few probs for an irish ex-pat.
[Edited on 6/12/05 by Syd Bridge]
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Fred W B
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| posted on 6/12/05 at 11:10 AM |
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syd - How about some pictures of these chassis's you do?
Cheers
Fred WB
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Fozzie
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| posted on 6/12/05 at 11:58 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Mark Allanson
I used to work in a machine shop in the 80's, we were transfering to metric to get ISO acreditation (MOD work).
The boxes of shims were refered to a 'slips', ultra accurate, ground blocks used for comparative measuring
That explains it! 1980's stuff is ultra modern for our workshop...lololol, We don't touch stuff newer than 1970's
lololol....Dinosaurs are alive and well in darkest Surrey.
ATB Fozzie
'Racing is Life!...anything before or after is just waiting'....Steve McQueen
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Mix
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| posted on 6/12/05 at 12:34 PM |
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Handbags at the ready
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Fred W B
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| posted on 6/12/05 at 12:48 PM |
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Sid, WTF prompted that outburst....
I try to form an opinion of people by what they do, not what they say. You keep hinting at your extensive background in car fabrication, and
engineering knowledge, so I am genuinely interested in what you are currently building or have built in the past.
I think that everyone builds to their own level of satisfaction, and this will vary widely depending on the resources and skills available to each
person.
Regards
Fred WB
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Fred W B
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| posted on 6/12/05 at 12:50 PM |
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Sid, WTF prompted that outburst....
I try to form an opinion of people by what they do, not what they say. You keep hinting at your extensive background in car fabrication, and
engineering knowledge, so I am genuinely interested in what you are currently building or have built in the past.
I think that everyone builds to their own level of satisfaction, and this will vary widely depending on the resources and skills available to each
person.
Regards
Fred WB
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Mix
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| posted on 6/12/05 at 12:54 PM |
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Fred That's Syd with a .
Hence my comment
Mick
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Hellfire
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| posted on 6/12/05 at 01:15 PM |
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Fred, if you look at the profile of that last post by Syd, you'll probably notice that it wasn't really his. (1st Post) Just someone on
here trying to wind him up possibly 
Hold tight though, this could be an interesting ride...............
[Edited on 6-12-05 by Hellfire]
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Fred W B
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| posted on 6/12/05 at 01:20 PM |
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Okay, hadn't noticed the "noobie"
Fred WB
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 6/12/05 at 01:54 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Rorty
That would be like saying my shoes would fit you.
There are so many variables such as brand, material, construction, method of mounting, weight of car, length of trailing arm, horse power etc. etc.
Without knowing what the car is, I would say not. It seems light for any trailing arm.
If you want to email me with more details, I'll give it some thought.
It's a locost, appropriately enough! Essentialy a book chassis but 4" wider and 1" taller so will be a little heavier (wild
guess...600kg?). Engine is a 20XE with bike throttle bodies, say ~170bhp.
I'm using a De-dion rear axle so the rod ends don't have to cope with any torque reaction force from the diff. I've seen 1/2"
rod ends used in this application before, but of course that dosen't mean they are a good choice.
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Syd Bridge
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| posted on 6/12/05 at 02:31 PM |
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Syd Bridge is not Syd Bridge. Noobie.
The genuine article has no . full stop, period, call it what you want.
The Syd Bridge. (full stop) is Rorty.
But please, let him carry on, his description of himself is very apt. Concise to the letter.
Just have a good look out for the . full stop if any of his childish posts appear again.
Syd.
And Fred, I'll have a chassis assembled in a couple of days, then I will try and post a pic.
[Edited on 6/12/05 by Syd Bridge]
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NS Dev
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| posted on 6/12/05 at 03:24 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Mark Allanson
Sorry for being stupid, but where does the binding come in?
I've jumped all the crap in between.............the easy way to adjust it is just use the washers! Use the rose joints to move in and out (so
principally static camber change) and washers for fore/aft (principally castor change)
Make everything adjustable and yopu have a lot of setup to do, but you can pull some amusing tricks with castor and camber changes in roll, but then
you need to know what you are doing..........which is why I did it like this......... (if only I knew what I were doing!!! all wild guesswork
but I'm picking up another trophy soon, god knows how that happened!!!)
apologies for the state of the car, never washed it after the last race (was only in August aftert all)
 
grassersteer1
 
grassersteer2
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blueshift
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| posted on 6/12/05 at 05:53 PM |
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Hooray, Syd has come out of the woodwork to fire a few more snide insults around and start arguments. It wouldn't be nearly as entertaining if
he left.
I am fortunate enough (?) to have had a similarly inclined friend at university, over the years I have learned to find amusement in it rather than
irritation.
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Mad Dave
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| posted on 6/12/05 at 06:01 PM |
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I prefer Syd Bridge. (noobie)
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Avoneer
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| posted on 6/12/05 at 06:43 PM |
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Hi Dave - are you stoking the fire as well?
Pat...
No trees were killed in the sending of this message.
However a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
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NS Dev
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| posted on 6/12/05 at 06:49 PM |
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Jeez can we stop the insult firing!!!
Don't judge people unless you know who they are. Syd has offered a LOT of advice to me regarding my race car, all of it off this forum and away
from stupid snide remarks.
Lets get in the real world and stop acting like twatty kids.
Going back to avoneer's original point................washers work, just use them. Get decent ones and they are exactly the same thickness, can
be 0.75mm or 1mm thick or whatever, then measure the setup needed, count out the washers for each side and bob is your uncle.
There is no need to do anything else.
My next grasser will almost certainly NOT have the adjustable wishbone system in the photos above. This time I will make a jig and use the washer
adjustment system.
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Stephant
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| posted on 6/12/05 at 07:21 PM |
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Hi
I would keep the pictured upper wishbone.To me,this is the way it should be done,when using rose joints:they can't
be stressed by mounting failure,and setting caster is very easy, without a third hand
Syd :
which type of SKF joints do jou use ? there are so many.Do you have a part number?
Regards,Stephan
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flak monkey
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| posted on 6/12/05 at 08:16 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by NS Dev
Jeez can we stop the insult firing!!!
Don't judge people unless you know who they are. Syd has offered a LOT of advice to me regarding my race car, all of it off this forum and away
from stupid snide remarks.
Lets get in the real world and stop acting like twatty kids.
Too bloody right...
OK so Syd can be a bit blunt at times, but who cares? Dont take everything too personally. Most of us dont know each other in person, and its hard to
tell whether someone is saying something sarcastically or not just through a written message.
David
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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Rorty
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| posted on 6/12/05 at 08:51 PM |
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What a mess.
Washers...any washers...will work fine, as long as the wishbone is free to pivot. Use common sense rather than slagging people off.
I'm sure if you trawled the bearing catalogues you could find a suitable 8mm rod end, but why go to all the bother? Most Locost builders
don't know about the various grades and strengths of the huge array of rod ends available, so it's safer to say use a 1/2" rod end
because then, even if they purchase a lesser quality joint, it will more than likely be up to the job. Also, 1/2" rod ends must be the most
widely available size; every bearing shop I've ever been into has at least double the amount of half-inchers than any other size. They buy
1/2" rod ends in bulk and we see the price benefit. Many 1/2" rod ends are cheaper than commensurate 3/8" and 5/16".
Cheers, Rorty.
"Faster than a speeding Pullet".
PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!
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Triton
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| posted on 6/12/05 at 09:21 PM |
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And the rubber button is?
My Daughter has taken over production of the damn fine Triton race seats and her contact email is emmatrs@live.co.uk.
www.tritonraceseats.com
www.hairyhedgehog.com
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Avoneer
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| posted on 6/12/05 at 09:22 PM |
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But my rod ends are 12mm 
Pat...
No trees were killed in the sending of this message.
However a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
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Triton
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| posted on 6/12/05 at 09:26 PM |
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What grade are they Pat?....
My Daughter has taken over production of the damn fine Triton race seats and her contact email is emmatrs@live.co.uk.
www.tritonraceseats.com
www.hairyhedgehog.com
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