Dick Axtell
|
 posted on 13/5/06 at 01:42 PM |
|
|
X-flow Contactless Distributor
Hi All,
Has anybody tried out the LocUst method of achieving locost electronic ignition?
(Ref: http://www.locustenthusiastsclub.fsnet.co.uk/knowlegebase/elec_ign/electronic%20ignition..htm)
Looks like a reasonable solution - but how effective is it? Who's had experience of this recommended distributor change?
Work-in-Progress: Changed to Zetec + T9. Still trying!!
|
|
|
|
|
procomp
|
| posted on 13/5/06 at 01:47 PM |
|
|
Hi a lot of the locost racers use this dizzy instead of the original fomoco or the lucas unit . There is no reason not to use it should be good and
reliable .
cheers matt
|
|
|
Markp
|
| posted on 13/5/06 at 02:16 PM |
|
|
I used this set up for two years and never had a problem. worth doing
Mark
|
|
|
Markp
|
| posted on 13/5/06 at 02:16 PM |
|
|
I used this set up for two years and never had a problem. worth doing
Mark
|
|
|
DIY Si
|
| posted on 13/5/06 at 02:22 PM |
|
|
Pah. £20 my ar$e. He's been had, mine cost 99p form e-bay.
|
|
|
UncleFista
|
| posted on 13/5/06 at 04:25 PM |
|
|
Mine cost a tenner from the scrappers, don't forget to get the coil too 
Tony Bond / UncleFista
Love is like a snowmobile, speeding across the frozen tundra.
Which suddenly flips, pinning you underneath.
At night the ice-weasels come...
|
|
|
DIY Si
|
| posted on 13/5/06 at 04:27 PM |
|
|
I'm assuming a lucas gold coil should work?
|
|
|
David Jenkins
|
| posted on 13/5/06 at 06:30 PM |
|
|
Yep - it's what I've got on my x-flow. When you go to the scrappy, just have a good look at the cross-shaped thing inside and see if
anyone's been bending it about - otherwise they are fairly bomb-proof.
Apart from that, make sure that you get the connector that goes into the electronics pack that's screwed into the side of the dizzy. Also, if
you can, take off the electronics, clean up the surfaces and re-fit using heat-conductive paste (available from Maplins).
Oh yes - you'll probably need to replace the coil for a 12v one, and remove any cold-start resistor that's in the circuit.
Once fitted you'll never have to worry about adjusting point again!
It's an easy mod, and well worth doing.
David
|
|
|
DIY Si
|
| posted on 13/5/06 at 06:34 PM |
|
|
It's ok, I've already got a complete good nick dizzy and a spare coil. Justr didn't want to blow the elctronics up by using a 12v
coil if it should be 9v.
|
|
|
Marcus
|
| posted on 14/5/06 at 09:42 AM |
|
|
I tried this conversion and failed dismally!
Think I bought a pup, the only thing left to change is the electronic module - could I buggery get a spark!!
Marcus
Marcus
Because kits are for girls!!
|
|
|
David Jenkins
|
| posted on 14/5/06 at 04:07 PM |
|
|
All depends on whether you used the instructions in the Wallage book - I did, couldn't make it work - then found out that the wiring instruction
heve gives are incorrect!
Wired it correctly and it worked perfectly.
David
|
|
|
Marcus
|
| posted on 14/5/06 at 04:10 PM |
|
|
OK David,
How did you wire yours. there are only 3 wires, brown, black and green.
From memory,
Brown - chassis
Green - coil -ve
Black - coil +ve
Close?
Marcus
Marcus
Because kits are for girls!!
|
|
|
David Jenkins
|
| posted on 14/5/06 at 04:28 PM |
|
|
That's the correct way - Wallage had the black and green swapped over.
The amplifier modules were liable to overheat when the metal they're attached to gets corroded. It may be worth trying another one, but clean
the metal with some wire wool and apply some heatsink compound before refitting the module (available from Maplins).
David
[Edited on 14/5/06 by David Jenkins]
|
|
|
Dick Axtell
|
 posted on 30/5/06 at 04:17 PM |
|
|
Thanks for all this VERY useful feedback, guys. Now it's off to the local scrappers.
|
|
|
Dick Axtell
|
| posted on 3/6/06 at 11:54 AM |
|
|
FAO David Jenkins & Marcus
Got the distributor and connector. So far so good.
What is the purpose of the metal shield, surrounding the cap? Do I have to retain it on the Locost?
Thanks
Dick
Work-in-Progress: Changed to Zetec + T9. Still trying!!
|
|
|
rusty nuts
|
| posted on 3/6/06 at 03:12 PM |
|
|
The metal shield is something to do with radio/TV suppresion , left it off when I changed mine . Well worth fitting Valencia distributor even if only
for not having to change /adjust points
|
|
|
David Jenkins
|
| posted on 3/6/06 at 03:34 PM |
|
|
Like he said - you don't need the metal thingy.
David
|
|
|
Dick Axtell
|
| posted on 4/6/06 at 01:08 PM |
|
|
Again, thank you for the feedback.
Dick
|
|
|
.jpg)
