dhutch
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| posted on 20/8/08 at 04:05 PM |
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Pertinent questions to ask when buying?
Ive been looking at sevens for a year or so now, but have arranged to go at look at one tonight, with the intention of maybe buying it.
Ive had a bit of a rummage for past threads on 'buying guides' and tips, but i was just wondering if there are any key questions i should
be asking that i might have forgotten. Partiular seven specific ones.
Clearly the obvous ones are to check the chassis condtion, as well as body work and engine. Maybe ask about its history. Stardard sort of thing?
Daniel
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twybrow
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| posted on 20/8/08 at 04:11 PM |
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Ask who built it, and when? What build documentation/photos are avilable? Is it in the origianl 'as built' consition or has it been
'improved'? Why are they selling?
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Paul TigerB6
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| posted on 20/8/08 at 04:12 PM |
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I'd throw in a couple of technical quesions myself to find out if the seller is an enthusiast or just someone who bought a toy and now needs to
sell it as he hasnt a clue about them. I'd rather buy a car of an enthusiast myself who knows how to look after the car
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iank
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| posted on 20/8/08 at 04:25 PM |
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Make sure you know what it is, i.e. Locost, MK, Luego, Caterham, Robin Hood, Locust, something else. Too many people don't know exactly what
they've bought and the values are completely different - you wouldn't want to pay Caterham money for a Robin Hood.
Follow up is to ensure the V5 agrees, if it still says sierra, escort or something it obviously isn't (Dutton for example) then run away as
it'll need an SVA unless you get lots of proof that is was on the road before SVA came in - too many SVA dodgers out there.
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
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Hellfire
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| posted on 20/8/08 at 04:37 PM |
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Take a straight edge with you and make sure all the sections which look straight are straight. Any sign of rewelding around the lower footwells is
sign of damage.
Check the rear suspension mounts for any obvious signs of damage from side impact.
Generally the better the finish product with attention to detail kind of ensures you get a better build, though not scientifically proven 
The best bit of advice I could give to you is to take someone along who has built one for themselves. They should know what to look for...
Steve
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hughpinder
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| posted on 20/8/08 at 05:03 PM |
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Also, dont forget to find out what car make/model/year all parts of the car are from - may be VW calipers from a polo, front disks from a fiesta
.......... if you have the reg number(s)/chassis numbers etc of all donors this will make getting spares much easier in the future.
Regards
Hugh
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chrisj
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| posted on 20/8/08 at 05:52 PM |
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Take it for a spin and check that it doesn't boil ! Make sure that when you get it back keep it running and keep an eye on the standing
temperature and oil pressure/oil temp.
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Hellfire
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| posted on 20/8/08 at 06:32 PM |
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Which seven type is it? Locost, Caterham, Westfield, etc... If you could be a bit more specific, maybe other owners could give you a list of things to
look out for.
Phil
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dhutch
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| posted on 20/8/08 at 09:07 PM |
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Ive got a few cars in the area im planning to look at if i can. Was going to see one tonight couldnt last minute.
That was a 1990 xflow westy, also hoping to see two pinto engined indys.
Cheers, Daniel.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 20/8/08 at 09:31 PM |
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Never heard of a 1990cc x-flow - but that doesn't mean it isn't real!
Sort of basic questions I would ask include:
1. Has it been SVA'd? Is there a copy of the MAC certificate? (I have one for my car)
2. Is it correctly registered as a kit (not as the donor)?
3. Do the chassis and engine numbers match up with the registration document?
4. Does the OWNER match up to the registration document?!
5. Does it look cared-for? By which I mean that it may look used, but it's as clean and tidy as reasonably possible, no rust on the working
bits (esp. things like wishbones), electrics and control cables neat and tidy, engine bay clean and tidy. Also no stains around and below the water,
oil and brake fluid containers. Tyres used but in good order, with even wear and no nicks, bulges, etc.
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BenB
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| posted on 20/8/08 at 09:59 PM |
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I think 1990 was registration (ie pre-lit) not capacity 
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rick q
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| posted on 20/8/08 at 11:21 PM |
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One of the most valuable things I got when I bought mine was the builders notes - his note book where all the nasty details were recorded e.g. wiring
diagrams, part numbers for odds and sods - that sort of stuff.
It's made replacing parts and fixing things so much easier knowing that I'm looking at a diff from a Mazda XYZ rather than some unknown
big black thing. Money in the bank IMHO.
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dhutch
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| posted on 20/8/08 at 11:22 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by BenB
I think 1990 was registration (ie pre-lit) not capacity
Yeah sorry, should have been more clear on that.
- 1700cc, first registed in 1990. Indys are newer cars, 1.6 and 1.8l.
Daniel
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DarrenW
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| posted on 21/8/08 at 08:35 AM |
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Couple of questions you can ask me
1. When can i come and have a look?
2. When can i pay you and pick it up?
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dhutch
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| posted on 3/9/08 at 11:15 PM |
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Just like to say thanks alot to everyone thats helped.
I bought a car tonight, 1991 reg q-plate Westfeild SE with a 1.9l Ford CVH engine. In Yellow.
Photos tomorrow as soon as its light.
Daniel
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iank
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| posted on 4/9/08 at 08:11 AM |
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Excellent, enjoy
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
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carpmart
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| posted on 4/9/08 at 02:58 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by dhutch
Just like to say thanks alot to everyone thats helped.
I bought a car tonight, 1991 reg q-plate Westfeild SE with a 1.9l Ford CVH engine. In Yellow.
Photos tomorrow as soon as its light.
Daniel
Come on then, where are the photo's?
You only live once - make the most of it!
Radical Clubsport, Kwaker motor
'94 MX5 MK1, 1.8
F10 M5 - 600bhp Daily Hack
Range Rover Sport - Wife's Car
Mercedes A class - Son's Car
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