Sloan85
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| posted on 1/9/13 at 04:09 PM |
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What polish for GRP?
I covered my car in polythene when I trailered it the other week as heavy rain was forecast. This was a mistake as the polythene has blown about in
the wind and dulled areas on every panel. What is the best polish for bring the gel coat back to a gloss finish? I have some Autoglym Super Resin
Polish fomr when I was into detailing my Civic Type R but not sure whether these products designed for paint can be used on gel coat.
What about waxing the GRP. Any product recommendations?
Cheers
http://mkindygsxr.blogspot.co.uk
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jacko
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| posted on 1/9/13 at 04:31 PM |
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Autoglym is what i use 
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Sloan85
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| posted on 1/9/13 at 04:44 PM |
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cheers, ill give that a go.
http://mkindygsxr.blogspot.co.uk
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jacko
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| posted on 1/9/13 at 04:57 PM |
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Description
read my roll bar sticker
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Volvorsport
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| posted on 1/9/13 at 05:03 PM |
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Farecla g3 then mould release wax
www.dbsmotorsport.co.uk
getting dirty under a bus
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twybrow
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| posted on 1/9/13 at 05:12 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Volvorsport
Farecla g3 then mould release wax
Another vote for Forecla products - they are the industry standard for gelcoat finishing.
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doobrychat
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| posted on 1/9/13 at 05:32 PM |
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G3 is Gods cream in my eyes.. blooming excellent stuff but beware of immitations on Farecla products...
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jacko
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| posted on 1/9/13 at 06:01 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by doobrychat
G3 is Gods cream in my eyes..
I bet that stings
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Xtreme Kermit
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| posted on 1/9/13 at 06:43 PM |
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Autoglym Super Resin Polish on my shelf.
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Sloan85
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| posted on 1/9/13 at 07:12 PM |
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Had a go with the Autoglym SRP but it isn't shifting the marks. Is there a more abrasive polish or do I need to have a go with a rotary
polisher?
Cheers
http://mkindygsxr.blogspot.co.uk
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ashg
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| posted on 1/9/13 at 08:05 PM |
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farcella g3 with an electric mop and plenty of water its the only way.
Anything With Tits or Wheels Will cost you MONEY!!
Haynes Roadster (Finished)
Exocet (Finished & Sold)
New Project (Started)
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mark chandler
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| posted on 1/9/13 at 08:05 PM |
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My vote is for meguiars compounding polish, be careful with a rotary you may burn the surface unless you know what you are doing.
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plentywahalla
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| posted on 1/9/13 at 08:53 PM |
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Polyester gel coat is very different from paint in that it suffers from oxidisation and chalking caused by Ultra Violet radiation. Ordinary waxes such
as beeswax or carnuba will give a good shine but their UV protection will last only about 50 hours when exposed to sunlight.
You need a polish with long term UV barrier protection which usually means ones containing Silicones. The problem with Silicones is that they are
highly mobile and can migrate into the gel coat itself. This leads to adhesion problems when the gel coat is subsequently repaired or refinished, it
can also lead to embrittlement over the longer term. We always recommend that Gelcoats are polished with Polishes containing PTFE which has long term
UV protection without the problems associated with Silicones.
Note that polish manufacturers sometimes use trademarks for PTFE such as Teflon and PTEF in their descriptions.
Rules are for the guidance of wise men ... and the obedience of fools. (anon)
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Sloan85
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| posted on 1/9/13 at 09:23 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by plentywahalla
Polyester gel coat is very different from paint in that it suffers from oxidisation and chalking caused by Ultra Violet radiation. Ordinary waxes such
as beeswax or carnuba will give a good shine but their UV protection will last only about 50 hours when exposed to sunlight.
You need a polish with long term UV barrier protection which usually means ones containing Silicones. The problem with Silicones is that they are
highly mobile and can migrate into the gel coat itself. This leads to adhesion problems when the gel coat is subsequently repaired or refinished, it
can also lead to embrittlement over the longer term. We always recommend that Gelcoats are polished with Polishes containing PTFE which has long term
UV protection without the problems associated with Silicones.
Note that polish manufacturers sometimes use trademarks for PTFE such as Teflon and PTEF in their descriptions.
Excellent information! Thanks for that.
Can you suggest any products? Cheaper the better at the minute!
Cheers
http://mkindygsxr.blogspot.co.uk
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plentywahalla
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| posted on 1/9/13 at 09:38 PM |
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Look here
Linky
Richard
[Edited on 1/9/13 by plentywahalla]
Rules are for the guidance of wise men ... and the obedience of fools. (anon)
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theduck
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| posted on 2/9/13 at 06:24 AM |
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Forgive me if i am wrong, but are polishes not meant for correcting paint and sealants and waxes for protection?
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Slimy38
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| posted on 2/9/13 at 08:10 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by theduck
Forgive me if i am wrong, but are polishes not meant for correcting paint and sealants and waxes for protection?
I believe that is correct, polishes by definition are effectively abrasives (albeit incredibly fine abrasives), whereas waxes just lie on top. If the
OP has dull panels then I believe a polish is the best product, at least initially.
It has always made me cringe when people say that they polish their car every weekend, it should not be necessary. A wax every weekend might be ok
(although still overkill), but polish is removing clearcoat/paint.
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plentywahalla
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| posted on 2/9/13 at 08:24 AM |
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I think you are identifying the difference between compounds and polishes.
Reality is most of the compounds sold for use on paint attempt to do both and contain waxes and silicones for protection as well as the abrasives for
cutting back the surface. They are in effect a one step process.
I was trying to answer the OP's question and highlight the difference between paint and gelcoat, and that a product designed for one was not
ideal for the other.
I usually find the best results are obtained on gelcoat by using a separate abrasive compound and then a pure polish.
Rules are for the guidance of wise men ... and the obedience of fools. (anon)
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Mozzie
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| posted on 14/9/13 at 03:07 PM |
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Are you doing it by hand or do you have access to a Rotary or DA?
By hand then the SRP will do, but you will have to use elbow grease to get the results.
I wouldn't use G3 without going to G10 after, the G3 WILL leave micro marring due to its "cut".
I use menzerna on GRP (2 stage) followed with a wax. (Thats using a DA by the way).
I always read the blurb about PTFE in products and wonder how they get it to bond to the paint/grp without the heat that is needed to get it to bond.
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