I am looking for some advice from the Locost Builders collective. I am looking to add a shift kit to my Stuart Taylor Blade and am looking for the
following features:
1) Clutchless flatfoot upshifts (so ignition cut)
2) Clutchless downshifts
3) Auto throttle blip (not essential but would be nice)
4) Control via paddles
From what I can gather if I were to go with the Flatshifter gear I would need a Flatshifter Pro or Expert, the Flatshifter max and the paddle kit
which all works out to about GBP1550 or since I am in Oz about $2500AUD, even without paying VAT it still works out bloody expensive so I am looking
for other possible options? I already have a set of paddles kicking around so if I was to go for an air shifter kit I could modify my paddles to
trigger switches to tell the kit to shift up or down as I believe they just kill the ignition and shift up or down for a predetermined time set by the
user. The Flatshifter kit as I understand it uses strain switches in their paddles so you can use less force on the paddles to select neutral. I
really don't have a problem leaving the existing shifter in place and selecting neutral manually if it saves me $2k. So what options do I have,
what other kits are out there and which of them are any good?
[Edited on 20/7/13 by DANMAN]
Daily Driver - Audi A4 2L Turbo Quattro
Work Horse - Falcon XR8 Ute - Now Supercharged!
Rally Beast - 1972 Ford Escort 2L
Off The Road - Locost 2L Turbo (Z1 Concept)
Track Car - Stuart Taylor Blade
I'm not a fan of the solenoid or air-shift paddle shifters - they lack 'feel' and will try force a gear.
I normally use cable operated paddles which still give the driver the feel and it is easier to find neutral.
My preferred system is the Flatshifter Expert system with the vacuum operated downshift blipper.
The system also has an ignition (or injection) cut on the upshift.
A push-pull sensor is attached between the gearshift arm and the cable.
Here is the Expert system on a Nemesis hillclimb car
IMHO, use the paddle kit you already have, and save your money for something that will make your car either faster, brake better or improve the
handling Because:
1) Clutchless flatfoot upshifts (so ignition cut) You can do that anyway with a bike engine. 2) Clutchless downshifts You can do that but I wouldn't 3) Auto throttle blip (not essential but would be nice) As you say, "not essential". 4) Control via paddles You have these already, so no extra cost!
I haven't got my paddle kit fitted at the moment because I found it needed a fair but of travel and force to work, although mine was a rod
operated set up. Has anyone got a vid of how much travel their cable paddle shift kit needs to move to engage a gear?
Daily Driver - Audi A4 2L Turbo Quattro
Work Horse - Falcon XR8 Ute - Now Supercharged!
Rally Beast - 1972 Ford Escort 2L
Off The Road - Locost 2L Turbo (Z1 Concept)
Track Car - Stuart Taylor Blade
quote:Originally posted by DANMAN
I haven't got my paddle kit fitted at the moment because I found it needed a fair but of travel and force to work, although mine was a rod
operated set up. Has anyone got a vid of how much travel their cable paddle shift kit needs to move to engage a gear?
Here is one I am fitting at the moment.
About 20mm movement each way at the paddles.
With the engine not running it tends to take a bit more force.
In the heat of battle - you don't notice.
Thanks Minitici. I will dig my paddle setup I built back out of the cupboard and see how it goes with a cable setup. Any suggestions as to what sort
of cable to use? I am thinking of using either a heavy duty handbrake cable or perhaps a gear linkage cable off some FWD car at the wreckers.
Daily Driver - Audi A4 2L Turbo Quattro
Work Horse - Falcon XR8 Ute - Now Supercharged!
Rally Beast - 1972 Ford Escort 2L
Off The Road - Locost 2L Turbo (Z1 Concept)
Track Car - Stuart Taylor Blade
I had a 5mm teflon sleeve cable on my car and it didn't last 6 months of racing. A fair few of the other guys in RGB have experienced the same
failure this year. I've just changed it to a 6mm and it feels good.
You can change how much movement it takes to chage gear, but moving the pick up point on the arm on the gearbox, the shorter the change the stiffer it
will get though.
Because: 
