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Author: Subject: mazda 2.3 mzr/duratec engine help
ozzy69

posted on 1/5/16 at 06:28 PM Reply With Quote
mazda 2.3 mzr/duratec engine help

Hi i am looking for some info on using the 2.3 duratec ? I have a 2.3 out of a mazda 6 that is going into my mk4 escort the things i need to no is what do i do about the vvt (i no you can get blanking kits) but can i just leave it ? from what i have read so far is that the mazda head is a better flowing head is this true? and the other thing is i have a 2.0 duratec out of a ford with big ends gone,is there a good mix and match i can do to get torq over top end ? ohh to start with i will be running the engine on edis4 and r1 carbs .

Any help would be grate,i have been searching alot on the interweb and have picked up a few things but this site seems to be the site with the knowledge

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big_wasa

posted on 1/5/16 at 06:39 PM Reply With Quote
All I can tell you is you need more than just the Edis to control the ignition. The Edis will fire the coils at 10 deg Btdc.
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ozzy69

posted on 1/5/16 at 06:47 PM Reply With Quote
Can you give more info on the edis please as i was just hoping that it would work as the duratec has the same amount of timing teeth as the 1.3 that is in the car? i will also be using a vac pipe to edis and temp sensor,could i just adjust the vr sensor to get correct timming ? sorry if i sound dumb but i have never used edis or carbs .

[Edited on 1/5/16 by ozzy69]

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mcerd1

posted on 1/5/16 at 07:46 PM Reply With Quote
EDIS's will run at a fixed 10° timing until it gets a signal from an ECU.
This is basically a limp home mode, ghe engine will start, but it'll run badly and give you next to no power or fuel economy.
(ignition timing has to vary with engine speed and load)


But EDIS don't have vacuum lines - sounds like you have an ESC unit, these are standard alone systems, but the ignition map is not tunable and was designed for a small 8v engine.


Also getting a good vacuum signal from multiple carbs can be tricky, so most multi carb'd bikes use a TPS instead



Not sure about the Mazda VVT, bug I'd guess a delete kit is the simplest option

[Edited on 1/5/2016 by mcerd1]

[Edited on 1/5/2016 by mcerd1]





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ozzy69

posted on 1/5/16 at 08:14 PM Reply With Quote
Thank you mcerd1 i have found out that it is called dis and has three sensors to give it the info it needs from the engine , The engine is just a small ohv carb engine
So would it work as just a starter on the duratec just to get it going untill i get megajolt or ms ?
The other thing i was not sure of is that the trigger on the little 1.3 is run of a fly wheel and the trigger on the duratec is on the front pully would this make a difference due to size etc ? GENUINE FORD ESCORT IGNITION MODULE 1.3 HCS MK4 ESCORT same as this

[Edited on 1/5/16 by ozzy69]

[Edited on 1/5/16 by ozzy69]

[Edited on 1/5/16 by ozzy69]

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mcerd1

posted on 2/5/16 at 07:45 AM Reply With Quote
Doesn't matter which end of the crank shaft its fitted to, its the trigger pattern that's important (I don't know what pattern Mazda used on these engines, and i can only guess that these ignition modules need the same 36-1 pattern as other ford ones - see the mj and ms sites / forums for details)

Also if you need to use the MZR's VR sensor you'll need to be careful with how you splice its wires into the ford ignition unit, not just the polarity of the wires but the earth on the shielding as well.

To get a good vacuum signal you'll need to connect to all 4 runners and join then in a small chamber that big enough to even out the individual pulses from the cylinders - then take a line from this to the sensor.

The temp. sensor should work as long as its one with the same resistance range as the ignition module expects...

And after all that it should run, just not perfectly and with no options to tune it...

[Edited on 2/5/2016 by mcerd1]





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ozzy69

posted on 2/5/16 at 11:37 AM Reply With Quote
Thanks again mcerd1 ,thats what i wanted to hear . Both engine's are 36-1 trigger wheels and i am only looking to get it running and moving for the first step.
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ozzy69

posted on 2/5/16 at 06:28 PM Reply With Quote
Found this when i was looking into making a box to balance the 4 vacuums , http://danstengineering.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=121 Looks really easy to make one up .
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big_wasa

posted on 2/5/16 at 06:39 PM Reply With Quote
Another way is to solder four pipes to a mini co2 cylinder.

I wouldn't spend to much time on it as you will soon want/ need to upgrade. Also thes dis units have a low rev limiter. I've run all sorts on the Esc dis units. And yes they will get the engine running but it really is a backwards step for an engine with such capabilities.

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Fcck2000

posted on 6/5/16 at 04:06 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by ozzy69
Hi i am looking for some info on using the 2.3 duratec ? I have a 2.3 out of a mazda 6 that is going into my mk4 escort the things i need to no is what do i do about the vvt (i no you can get blanking kits) but can i just leave it ? from what i have read so far is that the mazda head is a better flowing head is this true? and the other thing is i have a 2.0 duratec out of a ford with big ends gone,is there a good mix and match i can do to get torq over top end ? ohh to start with i will be running the engine on edis4 and r1 carbs .

Any help would be grate,i have been searching alot on the interweb and have picked up a few things but this site seems to be the site with the knowledge


Mine is fitted with a MZR 2ltr and I've kept the VVT using a Specialist components ECU http://twinkam.co.uk/
I have a full wiring diagram using this ECU if that helps.
Paul





Tiger SSC
220bhp on standard MZR Duratec engine with throttle bodies and mild camshaft upgrade.

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