tks
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| posted on 13/11/06 at 10:22 AM |
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REGULATOR AMPS
Has anyone any idea how much amps the regulator of bike outputs??
Did anyone tried 2 units in parallel??
In need of energy for my reverse!!
Tks
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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nitram38
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| posted on 13/11/06 at 10:55 AM |
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Don't you just run the engine with a decent battery?
The battery should take up the slack.
I hope so because I am going down the starter reverse route!
If you use a red top battery 25, the starting current can be as high as 680 amps!
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tks
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| posted on 13/11/06 at 11:06 AM |
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mhhh
redtop 25amps, wasn“t that the expensive but good gell battery with 25Amps / hour??
the problem is that several 1200watt reverse manouvres eat up a good bit a battery. problem is you need a regulator wich can charge that!
We shall see then..
Tks
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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Coose
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| posted on 13/11/06 at 11:17 AM |
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Get out and push? It works for me.... 
Spin 'er off Well...
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nitram38
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| posted on 13/11/06 at 11:17 AM |
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I bought a reverse kit from Lynx Ae that he uses on his LR1 race car and it works perfectly well on that.
The kit is not cheap, but it comes with a small starter motor (probably one of his low current high speed conversions) and a cog that goes on the
output sprocket.
The motor is mounted on the gearbox above the cog, but because of the different R1 engines, you must fabricate a bracket.
LINK
Redtop battery is £88 delivered but it is small, will not leak (so you can install it on it's side) and will hold it's charge for 2 years
from full.
[Edited on 13/11/2006 by nitram38]
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ReMan
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| posted on 13/11/06 at 11:20 AM |
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The regulator needs to supply enough power to run the car and all its lights, thats all.
The starter and reverse motor run from the reserve in the battery, this is where the size/capacuity of the battery come in, so it has enough power tyo
do these things without draining it. Not the size of the regulator, that governs how soon the battery can be recharged, with its spare capacity, if
that makes sense?
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Sacal
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| posted on 13/11/06 at 12:06 PM |
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The regulator doesnt "charge" anything! It "regulates" the output of the staor so you dont fry your battery. Honda stators are
pretty sparse on copper, with only enough winds to run what you originaly had on the bike, dont know the VFR output off hand but i should imagine its
not bad being a sport tourer.
If I were you I would rewind your stator with two charging circuits in parralel, run one as usual through the regulator/rectifier to the battery, run
the other through a second regulator/rectifier, then through a fat capacitor and on to your reverse box. The reason for the capacitor is it will act
just like a battery soaking up the power spikes to give a nice even 12v flow, regulators output at about 14/15v but can spike a few volts
higher....and save a LOT of weight. You wont be able to run the reverse with the engine off though! Think of the caps they use in high ouput ICE
systems...should give you a picture of what it does 
I'll post some links up later about rewinding stators when i get a chance, rule of thumb is "more winds=higher voltage, Fatter copper
wire=more amps" you just gotta find a happy medium between enough volts to keep a healthy charge going, and enough amps to run what you have.
Confused? I was until I acutaly did it...then it all seems so simple....ish 
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ReMan
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| posted on 13/11/06 at 12:51 PM |
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This is getting far to unnessesarily complicated.
Bottom line is you need a bigger battery , thats it!
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Sacal
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| posted on 13/11/06 at 12:56 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ReMan
This is getting far to unnessesarily complicated.
Bottom line is you need a bigger battery , thats it!
Yep Unless you want to go in reverse all day
[Edited on 13/11/06 by Sacal]
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pk
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| posted on 13/11/06 at 01:36 PM |
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A bigger battery will fry the regulator - bike regulators burn all the current that the battery does not use. Thats why they run so hot. running
with the lights on will reducle the temperature of the regulator and will not use any more engine power. A bigger battery will be a bigger load on
the regulator - it will fry!
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Bob C
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| posted on 13/11/06 at 11:30 PM |
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Hi PK - you been reading that stuff on the other thread about jump starting?? I don't believe a word of that! I can believe there's some
sort of surge suppressor in the rect/reg but NO WAY is it a shunt regulator! That would be insane
Bob
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ReMan
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| posted on 14/11/06 at 10:39 AM |
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I wondered about this too?
i could'nt remember the term "SHUNT REGULATOR", I would be surprised if a Honda reg is nothing more than a shunt regulator, given
that my vintage Triumph has what is essentially a shunt reg in the shape of a big zener diode on a heatsink.
This caps the charging system VOLTAGE by sinking the excess. surely the modern ones are more advanced than this?
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cloudy
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| posted on 14/11/06 at 10:47 AM |
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Those two comments don't work together!
A bigger battery doesn't load the regulator more - a battery is only ever a drain on the regulator - not a source for it to have to bleed power
off. As you say yourself the more current pulled by the system - the less work the regulator has to do... (if indeed that's how the bike
regulator is working)
James
quote:
Originally posted by pk
A bigger battery will fry the regulator - bike regulators burn all the current that the battery does not use. Thats why they run so hot. running
with the lights on will reducle the temperature of the regulator and will not use any more engine power. A bigger battery will be a bigger load on
the regulator - it will fry!
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tks
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| posted on 14/11/06 at 12:16 PM |
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mhh i think it works in 2 ways
to low consume and the reg needs to throw away allot of energie (if battery is full).
on the other hand if the reg needs to regulate allot of amps down two 12volts..
i guess it will get hot two not??
high rpm will mean high voltage??
Tks
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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