jamjar
|
| posted on 28/7/03 at 04:40 PM |
|
|
what sort of paint can I safely use at home
Hi I'm new to this forum so please can you help!
I have a regency red jaguar and I think the original finish was gloss over base coat?
The inside edge of the wheel arches need repainting which I would like to do myself.
But I don't want to end up killing myself in the process
Please correct me if I am wrong but I don't think that the base coat is very hazardous? but more the 2pack lacquer that you spray over the
top.
Is their a non or fairly non hazardous laquer I can spray over the top or can anyone suggest another option
|
|
|
|
|
Mark Allanson
|
| posted on 28/7/03 at 05:37 PM |
|
|
All spray painting is danderous if you don't wear a mask.
The base coats are a 1K polyester and contain no isocyanate so relatively safe, the 2K lacquer does contain IC and WILL kill you without an air fed
mask. You can get 1K lacquer which is OK - I would go that route if painting at home
Mark
|
|
|
stephen_gusterson
|
| posted on 28/7/03 at 07:56 PM |
|
|
so Mark, if not stating the obvious....
1k base and 1k lacquer and primers / surfacers / etchers that are compatable with em for grp and alu are available for home use?
On that nice amulet red too?
atb
steve
|
|
|
Mark Allanson
|
| posted on 28/7/03 at 08:31 PM |
|
|
All base coats are 1K, single pack lacquers tend to darken the colour slightly (not a problem on a complete paint) and they are less UV stable and
tend to deteriorate on the horizontal panels over time. Keep the car garaged/covered most of the time, it is less of a problem.
If you buy all the paint from one manufacturer and ask the retailer about compatability (basically buying a paint system) all will be OK.
The problem arises with the substrate (car!). the etch primer provides the cohession between the ally/GRP and the paint system. Get the best you can
get, I have been given 2 litres of acid etch for the job by my friendly paint supplier (a little sweetener!). It should be used with an air fed mask
and is dangerous. It has been used (be careful here) at home, outside, in a good breeze and the painter staying on the windward and ensuring that
no-one, anything damagable, pets, children etc is downwind. Dodgy - yes, illigal - probably, but excellent results were obtained. I (I mean the
sprayer!) was very pleased. The rest of the painting took place inside. It was on a speed boat, and the paint is still firmly in place after 5 years
of maritime battering.
If I didn't have a bodyshop to play with I would use this method. All disclaimers apply
Mark
|
|
|
jamjar
|
| posted on 28/7/03 at 10:40 PM |
|
|
Hi Mark and Stephen many thanks could you just clarrify something
Hi guys
I'm so glad I joined this forum, thank you so much for replying with your invaluable help.
As I am a newbie, could you just confirm that what I would need is single pack regency red base coat?
Would I use cellulose single pack lacquer on top or is there a special other type of single pack lacquer that is not cellulose that would be
better?
Darkening the colour wouldn't be a big problem as it's just under the lip of the wheel arches.
|
|
|
jamjar
|
| posted on 29/7/03 at 06:12 AM |
|
|
one more question please
Please could you tell me exactly what I should ask for, when I buy the regency red paint.
Should I just ask for 1K basecoat which I believe is Xyelene based? and Cellulose lacquer to go over the top?
I'm a bit confused when a friend of mine who knows zero about spraying said do they mean Cellulose base coat? if there is such a thing? with
Cellulose Lacquer or Xyelene basecoat with Cellulose Lacquer?
|
|
|
stephen_gusterson
|
| posted on 29/7/03 at 09:05 AM |
|
|
Marks gotta be your man here.
I have sprayed 3 cars in my time, but Mark works in a bodyshop, and is the guru
atb
steve
[Edited on 29/7/03 by stephen_gusterson]
|
|
|
Spyderman
|
| posted on 29/7/03 at 10:48 AM |
|
|
jamjar,
If the shop says the colour coat is Xylene based then it is in all probability cellulose.
Xylene or xylol is the main solvent in cellulose and yes there are cellulose base clear systems.
If in doubt ask the shop. They should be able to give you all the info you need. Ask for data sheets for whatever materials you are planning to use.
The shop should give you those quite willingly. If they don't go elsewhere.
Terry
[Edited on 29/7/03 by Spyderman]
Spyderman
|
|
|
Alistair
|
| posted on 29/7/03 at 06:03 PM |
|
|
Mark, what paint would you recommend for spray painting the chassis. Is the same paint that is used for painting the steel chassis suitable for
painting the interior aluminium pannels?
|
|
|
Mark Allanson
|
| posted on 29/7/03 at 07:35 PM |
|
|
I am going to paint my chassis in 2K, but i know that most will not have the facilities.
Get the chassis really clean bare metal, etch prime and synthetic ('sticky' in the trade) is probably the most durable, easiest to use.
GET THE RIGHT THINNERS or the paint will be broken down by thinners which are too agressive, it will still spray, still look good, but will soon dull
off, possibly peel, crack and generally be a pain. Instead of thinning, you can heat the paint to thin it, 80C from memory, boiling it buggers it as
with wrong thinners. the paint cools as it leaves the gun and flows a but slower than with thinners (dont try it outside in cold weather, best inside
with a warm garage)
The gloss with synthetic is amazing, sometimes said to be too shiney, when painting, beware the overspray, it lands wet unlike celly and will stick to
anything.
If you miss any bits, you can also brush sticky
God, I've almost talked myself into using it!!
It also only about £12 per litre. Tekaloid is the truck supplyer of sticky and have a good range of colours off the shelf, JCB yellow, Motorway blue
etc
|
|
|
Mark Allanson
|
| posted on 29/7/03 at 07:36 PM |
|
|
Sorry alistair, the second part of you question, yes sticky will stick to anything especially with an etch first
|
|
|
