Simon
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| posted on 6/8/03 at 09:42 AM |
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One piece scuttle/bonnet
Chaps,
Was thinking about a one piece scuttle/bonnet
Is this a stupid idea?
Hinged at the back, or down one side. Obviously the part of scuttle that would have been engine side (ie the front) will need to be separate, and
fixed independently to chassis.
Don't shoot me down, just asking for your ops
Thanks
Simon
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Spyderman
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| posted on 6/8/03 at 09:50 AM |
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Problem with incorporating the scuttle with the bonnet would then be waterproofing around scuttle area. The electrics could get wet.
Pressumably you will not have a screen either?
Not a very practical idea I think.
Having the bonnet and nose hinge together would be more practical and dramatic!
Terry
Spyderman
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 6/8/03 at 10:07 AM |
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I think it is exactly what Robbing Hood do with their 2B model
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ned
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| posted on 6/8/03 at 10:14 AM |
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remember to consider the exhaust/carb/airfilter positioning and relevant holes for clearance. I would have thought a flip front type would be the way
to go, just IMHO or course!
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
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Simon
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| posted on 6/8/03 at 10:40 AM |
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Terry,
"...be waterproofing around scuttle area. The electrics could get wet."
I have to disagree but correct me if I'm missing something. If the only place for water ingress is where the "scunnet" (one piece
scuttle/bonnet) meets the nosecone, I'd have thought it would be quite waterproof. No joint between bonnet/scuttle!
There wouldn't be anywhere for water to get in, would there?
The electrics would be mounted on a panel (what would be the front of the scuttle in a two piece jobby) which will have a rubber seal fitted around
the edge.
No windscreen planned - possibly aeroscreen
Ned - as Robin Hood do a one piece flip bonnet/nose, I'd already discarded that idea to save possible confusion:0
Bonnet part will have huge scoop to clear engine; exhausts exit through cut outs in bonnet - see archive piccies.
ATB
Simon
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Spyderman
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| posted on 6/8/03 at 01:04 PM |
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The current layout does not need to seal bonnet to scuttle because any leakage will only enter engine bay. Scuttle is already sealed from engine bay
and does not need anything else.
If scuttle moves with bonnet then you will have to seal along the sides between scuttle and chassis.
If you wish to go that route then do it, but you did ask! 
Terry
Spyderman
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Simon
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| posted on 6/8/03 at 02:04 PM |
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Terry,
"...will have to seal along the sides between scuttle and chassis" - which has to be done anyway
I think we may be misunderstanding each other
Have a look at:
http://forum.locostbuilders.co.uk/xmb/photos/cgi-bin/showpic.pl?sconnet.jpg
The red bit, all one piece. There's a black dotted line (bit vague) for the front of what would be a two piece scuttle, and this is bolted to
chassis - unconnected to sconnet - upon which electrics will be mounted.
Hopefully this might clear things up a bit!!
ATB
Simon
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merkurman
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| posted on 7/8/03 at 05:27 PM |
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woudl this incluse mountings for the dash? or is it just going to be an extended bonnet over the dash face? if you plan on hinging the dash/gauges
don't plan on a cable speedo.
nick
1962 fairlane with a 200" six and T5 5spd, shaved trim air ride, t3/t4 turbo and soon to be EFI
-- looking to put a offy tripower intake on soon
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mranlet
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| posted on 8/8/03 at 01:05 PM |
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I think you might be on to something...
If it were me doing the build (which it's not) I would have the whole scuttle, bonnet, and nosecone all molded into one piece, replace the
top-of-the-footwell frame crosspieces with corner bracing, and have the whole deal hinge from the front. I'd then add a rubber seal around the
bottom edge to watertight the connection and add a trunk or bonnet release along the top of the transmission tunnel to lock it down while driving.
Depending on how heavy it ends up being, I might add a small hydraulic assist from the hatch of a wagon or van.
This way, you could pop the thing with the release lever and tilt it up for easy entering and exiting of the car. It would be like a one-piece
bodywork that also serves as one big door.
Wiring, steering column, and instruments could be worked out without too much trouble, especially if you had a telescoping steering column and
instruments mounted to a stationary panel or arms (elements like the speedo and tach could be on long rigid brackets welded to the frame in front of
the shifter)
What would you think of that idea? It sure would be trick...
-MR
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merkurman
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| posted on 8/8/03 at 05:43 PM |
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well if you had electric gauges then they could be mounted and use doorjam contacts to send power to them. seems like alot of work though. what
about added weight? reduced torsional stregth of chassis form loosing the scuttle?
nick
1962 fairlane with a 200" six and T5 5spd, shaved trim air ride, t3/t4 turbo and soon to be EFI
-- looking to put a offy tripower intake on soon
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mranlet
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| posted on 8/8/03 at 06:45 PM |
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You'd probably maintain about the same weight, with the release giving you back the weight that you lost from removing rivets, extra brackets,
etc.
I can't imagine that the scuttle would stiffen the chassis much, or even if it did you would not notice the difference...
Go for it man!
-MR
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Jon Bradbury
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| posted on 9/8/03 at 06:39 PM |
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Check this picture ( = 1000 words)
http://www.robinhoodengineering.co.uk/images/aligatorbonnet.jpg
That's the Robin Hood alligator bonnet. I've seen one first hand and I must say it would make your build much much easier. The firewall
has Sierra door or boot sealing trim on it so that it maintains a seal between engine bay and cockpit.
As to whether its waterproof... well I ask you, is any seven-esque car truly waterproof?
Nope, thought not.
Edit : PS, I think the dashboard stays in place when it opens.
[Edited on 9/8/03 by Jon Bradbury]
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