derf
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| posted on 1/6/04 at 01:37 PM |
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Working on body work, plus flip nose.
I had a bunch of free time over the weekend, and got working on properly mounting the body, still need to actually mount the bodywork, but at this
point in time it fits on the body. I made the nose flip forward with a pair of hinges. The only problem I see now is that the engine will not clear
the hood, I have less than 1/4 inch of protrusion of the intake where the hood will sit.
 
Flip forward nose
 
Overview
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stephen_gusterson
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| posted on 1/6/04 at 01:46 PM |
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looking good
wish i had that amount of room to work in
is that a rotary engine?
did you tell us what your job was in the other thread?
cheers
steve
[Edited on 1/6/04 by stephen_gusterson]
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derf
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| posted on 1/6/04 at 02:52 PM |
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Yes just did it. No it isnt really as much room as it looks, I share that space with 3 other people, plus the whole area on the left, bottom right,
and far (out of photo) has to be open so the utilities folks can read their meters. Plus when I'm done building I still have to figure out how
to get the car out of the basement, and up a flight of stairs that it wont turn into. Yes it is a 13b
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TPG
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| posted on 1/6/04 at 07:32 PM |
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Will the nose hit the ground before being fully open once its at its correct ride hieght/sat on its wheels?Nice idea though
..Which was nice..
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JoelP
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| posted on 1/6/04 at 08:27 PM |
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mines done exactly like that, it is flat on the ground when opened at ride height. might end up scratched if im not careful!
Beware! Bourettes is binfectious.
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derf
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| posted on 2/6/04 at 11:58 AM |
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I'm going to eventually put in some tyype of spring or steel rope to keep it from opening fully. The only thing about steel rope is Tht
I'm scared it will get caught in moving engine parts, and I dont know if I want a spring that could stretch farther than I really want it to.
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pbura
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| posted on 2/6/04 at 02:22 PM |
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How about a check strap at the hinged joint?
Pete
Pete
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derf
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| posted on 2/6/04 at 04:31 PM |
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That would prolly work, like a leather strap that will only go so far
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pbura
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| posted on 2/6/04 at 06:32 PM |
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The hinged front's a good idea, will have to tuck it away to copy
So how are you going to handle the engine clearance? Can you lower the engine a little?
Just curious, how much lower is the sump than the chassis right now?
Pete
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derf
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| posted on 2/6/04 at 07:36 PM |
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The sump is lower than it should be. I think it is actually about 1 1/4inches down. I was expecting to have to make a hood scoop, after seeing photos
of other 13b locosts, all the engines came up above the hoodline. I have been planing from the begining to make a hood scoop, most likely out of
aluminum, and I'll just weld it in, grind down the welds, and paint.
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robinbastd
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| posted on 2/6/04 at 08:29 PM |
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Why not use an inertia reel seat belt as the retaining strap for the bonnet?
Ian
Only a dead fish swims with the tide.
http://smuttygifts.com/
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nicklondon
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| posted on 3/6/04 at 08:11 AM |
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if you fitted lift off hinges you could remove the nose completely.
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zilspeed
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| posted on 3/6/04 at 08:18 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by derf
. I have been planing from the begining to make a hood scoop, most likely out of aluminum, and I'll just weld it in, grind down the
welds, and paint.
That's aluminium young man.
Not-A-loo-min-um ;-)
Cheeky wee anglo - american gag there...
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derf
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| posted on 3/6/04 at 01:07 PM |
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first off it's a hood, not a bonnet, baby girls wear bonnets. and it's aluminum (alluhhmin eeum
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Steve&Steve
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| posted on 4/6/04 at 07:40 AM |
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Damp
Derf, I am also planning on building my chassis in the basement of my house. I have been quite worried about damp being a issue.
In your pictures damp can be clearly seen around the edges of the room and even in the middle of the floor under the chassis. Has this caused you much
of a problem? Also surface corrosion can be seen on your metalwork, how long has it taken to get like that, and is it really a problem?
My basement looks less damp than yours, though there is about an inch of damp visible in the corners bye the walls and the air does smell a little
musty. I have a household dehumidifier I will be using but am still worried about the damp affecting the chassis and especially the risk of wooden
base board warping during the early stages of chassis construction.
All comments/ideas welcome, cheers Steve
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derf
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| posted on 4/6/04 at 12:49 PM |
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Yes the basement is very damp. I dont own a house, and rent an appartment. I use the basement of another building, so I really cant use power tools
down there either (except when the people above me are not home).
When it rains the walls leak, when it floods the doorleaks, when they run their sink a pipe leaks, when they flush the toilet a ppe leaks, when no-one
is doing anything a something leaks.
There are some wet spots in the basement, the one behind the car is a 2 inch deep puddle, the one to the right is hot water, far right is cold water
to the toilet, behind and to the right is rain water.....
There is some surface rust on the chassis, no pitting yet, if somewhere looks like it will be bad then I just rub it with some sandpaper. I cant paint
the car down ther because people live above my work area, and I cant just take the chassis from the basement whenever I feel, I would need to cut it
in 1/2 to get it out. For that reason I havnt welded the middle of the chassis yet. When I do take the chassis from the basement, after I add
suspension, and buy aluminum for the body, then I can take the chassis outside, sandblast it, and paint it, andd finish building it in my parking
lot.
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sgraber
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| posted on 4/6/04 at 08:13 PM |
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Thought about waterproofing the bottom and turning it into a boat? 
Really though Fred - it looks good, and if you can build under those conditions, you are a very dedicated person! 
You should coat the frame with Rust Bullet. It works fantastic.
Graber
Steve Graber
http://www.grabercars.com/
"Quickness through lightness"
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flak monkey
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| posted on 4/6/04 at 08:23 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by zilspeed
quote:
Originally posted by derf
. I have been planing from the begining to make a hood scoop, most likely out of aluminum, and I'll just weld it in, grind down the
welds, and paint.
That's aluminium young man.
Not-A-loo-min-um ;-)
Cheeky wee anglo - american gag there...
If you want a useless fact...(I'm full of them..)
ALUMINIUM, was originally called ALUMINUM.
Evidently this doesnt fit in with the pattern of naming in the periodic table. So the Brits/Europeans changed it to ALUMINIUM, to follow on from
strontium, Gallium, Indium, etc that are in the same group as aluminium.
The Brits chanegd it, and the Americans didnt want to. So we are stuck with the double naming....
Told you it was useless!
Cheers,
David
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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derf
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| posted on 5/6/04 at 12:12 AM |
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Aluminium aluminum, who gives a pahtoot?
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