bi22le
|
 posted on 29/1/11 at 05:53 PM |
|
|
How do I get this off!?!
Hi all,
Did some work today in the freezing cold. I felt really warm though as I had gloves and hat, then the sun went down at 4pm!
Anyways. I cant get the hub apart from the lower wish bone. I know its coned shaped. I have undone the nut but kept it on the thread so it dont fly
apart. I have tried all sorts and cant get it off.
Any tips, please!!
 
stuck lower hub mount
Cheers,
Biz
Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!
Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1
Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I
|
|
|
|
|
T66
|
| posted on 29/1/11 at 06:01 PM |
|
|
Hammer & Heat , failing that bigger hammer.
|
|
|
RichardK
|
| posted on 29/1/11 at 06:02 PM |
|
|
Cheapo ball joint splitter like this but 9 times out of ten the rubber boot gets torn. Can get posher ones, just search for ball joint splitter.
Cheers
Rich
Gallery updated 11/01/2011
|
|
|
Yazza54
|
| posted on 29/1/11 at 06:02 PM |
|
|
Tap the upright where the joint goes in. This usually shocks it so it can drop out. Hitting the wishbone or the joint probably won't do
anything.
I'm unhappy cos I eat and I eat cos I'm unhappy
|
|
|
stevec
|
| posted on 29/1/11 at 06:04 PM |
|
|
Use a ball joint separator tool or if you are careful you may be able to shock the taper by giving it a sharp blow with a hammer on the side.
Steve.
|
|
|
zilspeed
|
| posted on 29/1/11 at 06:07 PM |
|
|
Two hammers and a lever.
Apply downwards force to the bone with the lever.
Whilst doing that, strike bother hammers onto the balljoint housing on the upright from opposite directions so that they both hit at the same time.
All the shock goes where it's needed rather than reverberating away through the structure.
Split the joint without ruining the gaiter.
|
|
|
britishtrident
|
| posted on 29/1/11 at 06:35 PM |
|
|
Another vote for 2 hammer method BUT more often than not you will end up using a ball joint splitter.
If you buy a hammer in forked wedge ball joint splitter the type with the very long shank is best.
Alternatively the screw press type
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
|
|
|
adithorp
|
| posted on 29/1/11 at 06:43 PM |
|
|
No heat required... ever. Fork spliter rarely required but you'll always knacker the rubber seal.
It takes one hammer. Strike the upright boss at 90' to the axis of the tapper. A good sharp strike will break the tappers grip. If can take 2 or
3 hits.
If that doesn't work your not hitting it hard enough in most cases. You'll be best using a lever type splitter in that case but might
struggle to get it in.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
|
|
|
bi22le
|
| posted on 29/1/11 at 07:00 PM |
|
|
Thanks for the comments. Ill try the 90deg hit tomorrow but I am sure I have tried this already. As you may see in the pic I cant get a hammer to
strike the top of the joint. The joint is tucked kind of inside the hub.
The gater is split, thats one of the reasons it needs to come apart.
The whole lot is off of the car now because I cant wait to break the two apart. I will need to secure the parts down before I start whacking them
again. I mat get better access off of the car anyway.
Any other advice in light of the new info?
Thanks again.
Biz
Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!
Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1
Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I
|
|
|
Daddylonglegs
|
| posted on 29/1/11 at 07:26 PM |
|
|
|I agree with the hitting method too. Make sure the nut is on by a couple of threads then do the hitty thing.
Failing that, I have used a fork type splitter before and as long as you put plenty of grease or vaseline on the rubber it can be done without
splitting it.
It looks like the Midget is winning at the moment......
|
|
|
bitsilly
|
| posted on 29/1/11 at 07:34 PM |
|
|
I'd ask my wife.
|
|
|
MakeEverything
|
| posted on 29/1/11 at 07:36 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by bi22le
Any other advice in light of the new info?
Biz
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
|
|
|
NigeEss
|
| posted on 29/1/11 at 07:44 PM |
|
|
Never hit the threaded part of the joint, even with the nut on it can be damaged.
Turn the wheel to full lock and as mentioned earlier give the upright a very sharp
blow.
As it's now off, rest one side of the upright on a hard surface (vice/anvil) and hit the
other side.
Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.................Douglas Adams.
|
|
|
Steve Hignett
|
| posted on 30/1/11 at 02:09 AM |
|
|
Just follow Adithorp's suggestions. He def knows what hes talking about...
|
|
|
bi22le
|
| posted on 30/1/11 at 12:37 PM |
|
|
Cheers all. Ill post up the end once I have had a go.
Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!
Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1
Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I
|
|
|
bi22le
|
| posted on 13/2/11 at 11:28 AM |
|
|
Update!!!
Well I got them off!
Lots of hitting with a hammer and then they just fell apart. It was alot easier with the hubs off of the car as I had better access and the brakes and
lines were not in the way.
So the answer is hit it harder than you would want to. It will shock loose.
Thanks everybody for your help.
Next job, repaint the damage I just created!!
Cheers,
Biz
Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!
Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1
Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I
|
|
|
