Liam
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 posted on 3/6/05 at 05:03 PM |
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3M VHB tape rules!!!
Hello...
The other day me and Geoff (Jambojeef) selotaped my floor, sides and rear bulkhead on with 3M VHB tape. Just thought I'd share the
experiance...
The tape is awesome stuff!! I did a test piece and could hang my weight off a piece of ally taped to 5" of RHS. My floor has 75 times this bond
area holding it on. I intend to put a few rivets in corners to resist peel but to be honest it probably doesn't need it at all.
It's a doddle to use and all this panelling took only a lazy short day start to finish, including cutting the panels. The tape isolates the
steel and ally and eliminates any loud ringing panels. Tapping the panels just gives a dull thud. Cost me 35 squid a roll (all inc) which is way
more than enough and I probably would have spent at least that on decent rivets, drill bits and PU, not to mention many hours of my life drilling and
de-burring! Can't recommend it highly enough.
There are loads of types of this VHB tape. I used a general purpose grey one, number 4611 in 1" width. Cool stuff.
On a side note - i was very pleasantly surprised at how well the 1mm NS4 ally beat round my round tube 'sills' and round the bottom edge of
the chassis. Looks good. Woo hoo!!!
Liam
 
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Liam
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| posted on 3/6/05 at 05:04 PM |
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finished...
 
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bigandy
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| posted on 3/6/05 at 05:18 PM |
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I seem to remember hearing somewhere that the 3m VHB tape really doesn't like brake fluid anywhere near it. I forget where I read it now, so I
could be making it up, but it might be worth doing your best to keep any brake fluids away from it (or perhaps test it on a scrap piece)?
The rivets in the corners are a good idea though. The Lotus Elise/Vx220 chassis uses adhesive to hold the ally panels/structure together. The rivets
used there are only to stop the panels peeling apart in an accident.
Cheers
Andy
Dammit! Too many decisions....
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Jon Ison
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| posted on 3/6/05 at 05:29 PM |
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i like that tape too, top chassis looks quality, chassis/builds like that can put some companies too shame.
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pbura
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| posted on 3/6/05 at 05:33 PM |
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That's AWESOME, Liam!
Years ago, I had a little sign on an office door put on with this stuff. When I took it off, it ripped out a huge chunk of wood! So when I first
heard about it for Locosts (credit Sreve Graber) I got pretty excited.
A few questions for you:
-- Did you use two courses on the round sill tubes?
-- Did you beat the bottom edges of your side panels over onto the tape?
-- Where are the curved tubes that go at the sides of the rear bulkhead? Going to add them later?
Congrats on a great-looking job.
Pete
Pete
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Liam
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| posted on 3/6/05 at 06:06 PM |
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Oooh cheers Andy I'll check that out and keep the brake fluid away in the meantime! Brakes are the next job...
Aww thanks Jon - might even have it finished before too long! Cheers for being one of those who inspired me!
Ta Pete. Yeah it's bitchin stuff. My mate uses it in sign fixing but i do remember reading about Sgraber using it a while back...
-- Yep I used two courses round the sill tubes. the ally wraps round just over 180 degrees. I clamped a big bit of wood over the side panel level
with the top of the sill to stop the middle bowing out. Started off with hand and finished with a rubber mallet. I'm so surprised it bent so
smoothly and with no kinks. Just beat it a bit at a time and it just slowly looks better and better. Panel beating's great! The tape holds it
very well but there is a tiny amount of spring back in the bend - so i will have to put a couple of rivets on the inside face of the sill to hold it
down.
-- Yeah i cut the panel with an extra inch at the bottom edge. After briefly thinking about leaving them that way (ground effect F1 side skirts and
all that  ) I beat them round underneath. Again i'm surprised how well it went - 1mm NS4 is the way forwards! I actually just beat it round
onto the floor - not onto another run of tape. The few rivets I put along the floor will go through the wraped round sides too and the whole lot will
be sealed.
-- Yeah I haven't decided on them yet. I wanted to wait till the arches are on so i get the curve 'concentric' to the arch. I also
want it rounded to match the sills and I cant bend a tube that well myself. I will end up sticking something on later - a grp moulding or even
routered MDF or something...
I sanded off the paint before taping. I'm sure the POR15 would have been well enough adhered but I thought a metal to metal bond would be
better. I will be running a bead of seam sealer around the inside edges of the floor and side tubes so nothing can get in. Should be cool...
Liam
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sgraber
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| posted on 3/6/05 at 07:03 PM |
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Top Job Liam!
I discovered that brake fluid will release the bond pretty damn quick. Side panels wouldn't be an issue, but any flooring would best be served
by an additional mechanical fastening using rivets. At least in the corners.
Steve Graber
http://www.grabercars.com/
"Quickness through lightness"
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skint scotsman
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| posted on 3/6/05 at 07:48 PM |
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that stuffs great but you should see the strength of the clear stuff a lot more expensive but you would be amazed at the amount of signs that are held
up by it.
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Liam
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| posted on 3/6/05 at 08:05 PM |
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Oooh - is there an end to the evils of brake fluid? Is it a WMD? Well thanks for that heads up - I guess when I have put the seam sealer down the
tape will all be hidden away.
Yeah I noticed the clear stuff. Was over twice the price. The stuff I got (4611) is temp resistant and can therefore accept processes like powder
coating. So if i was starting a new project i'd stick the panels on the bare metal chassis then powder coat the whole lot.
Liam
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Hellfire
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| posted on 3/6/05 at 09:48 PM |
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@ skint scotsman - I'm sure I've seen that car in the middle of your signature somewhere before? 
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skint scotsman
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| posted on 4/6/05 at 10:03 AM |
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appologies for the pic hijack to hellfire
just love all the little details , the overall finish is great .
Your websites great as well think I've read it twice now
[Edited on 4/6/05 by skint scotsman]
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Bob C
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| posted on 4/6/05 at 11:21 PM |
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I just bought a 33m roll of this stuff for about 50notes + another fiver for their IPA/water cleaning fluid - just need to buy some ally sheets
now.... I hope a single roll will do the car - it's a bit dear! I went for the 0.64mm thick stuff. I'll try & remember to post how it
all goes together
Bob C
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nick205
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| posted on 5/6/05 at 08:57 AM |
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Liam - Chassis looks very well designed and made, I like the mix of square and round tube. If the rest of the car is built to the same standard it
will be a cracker
I've used the same 3M tape to bond stainless steel facia panels to mild steel equipment cabinets. It is very impressive stuff.
Good Luck
Nick
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rick q
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| posted on 6/6/05 at 07:46 AM |
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Solve your brake fluid problems using Dot 5 (silicon base) instead of Dot 4 - Dot 5 doesn't eat paint - it costs though!
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NS Dev
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| posted on 7/6/05 at 08:24 AM |
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................and I would never use it either, gives a springy pedal and is NOT hygroscopic, so water stays as droplets in it and corrodes caliper
pistons etc.
Don't bother with silicone fluid, it's crap, just don't spill the normal stuff!
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RazMan
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| posted on 18/6/05 at 12:31 AM |
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I don't think that DOT 5.1 fluid is silicon based - you can mix it with Dot 4 while flushing through. It is kinder to paintwork though.
Best to avoid silicon fluid on a road car anyway as it gives all sorts of problems when water gets near it.
Regarding the VHB tape - I used to use this as a signmaker to stick road signs together ........ the tape is stronger than the alloy sheet!
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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