MustangSix
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| posted on 16/7/03 at 04:43 PM |
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Footwell ventilation?
For those of you with running cars, have you found heat in the footwell to be a problem? I have had some cars that were very hot in that area, my A-H
3000 for one. Almost intolerable.
I was thinking of incorporating some sort of fresh air ventilation while I'm at a point in construction where it would be relatively easy to do.
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steve m
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| posted on 17/7/03 at 01:13 AM |
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In this country we like to keep our tootsies warm, even in the summer !!
However the footwell temp does get hot, and I have yet to see a good way of reducing it, without 1)getting the engine heat to come in as well or 2)
let water in when its raining
the only other way would be trunking from the footwell plates to a convienent place outide of the car
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Peteff
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| posted on 17/7/03 at 10:54 AM |
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I posted about this in modifications. I cut some holes in the bonnet to let air out and duct taped round the bulkhead to stop the hot air getting in.
It is a big improvement.
yours, Pete.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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andyd
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| posted on 17/7/03 at 03:39 PM |
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How about a length of corrugated duct pipe from the nosecone to the top panel of the footwell? This'll take fresh air in from the front and
direct it onto your feet. You could just cable tie the ducting to the chassis in various places and it'd route easily wherever you require. It
would be permanently "on" though. 
Andy
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Spyderman
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| posted on 17/7/03 at 03:47 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by andyd
How about a length of corrugated duct pipe from the nosecone to the top panel of the footwell? This'll take fresh air in from the front and
direct it onto your feet. You could just cable tie the ducting to the chassis in various places and it'd route easily wherever you require. It
would be permanently "on" though.
That would give a good positive pressure and you could easily fit an eyeball vent onto footwell end to give some direction and regulation.
Terry
Spyderman
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MustangSix
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| posted on 17/7/03 at 05:00 PM |
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Summertime temps in Orlando can often hover in the 90-98F (33-37C) range with humidity around 75-100%. Ventilation would be a welcome thing if the
footwells were to get warm
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kiwirex
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| posted on 19/7/03 at 09:23 AM |
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off topic: Straight Six??
MustangSix.
Just counted your exhaust pipes.
Was it a major effort to squeeze the six in?
What chassis mods ??
- Greg H
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MustangSix
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| posted on 21/7/03 at 02:57 AM |
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I'm lucky enough to live just a couple of miles from Jim Mcsorley. We spent some time measuring my engine and Jim drafted up some plans that
added a few inches forward of the firewall and some added width. Also a bit taller. We were trying to maintain the proper proportions.
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kiwirex
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| posted on 22/7/03 at 08:27 AM |
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Nice! :-)
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mranlet
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| posted on 28/7/03 at 06:33 PM |
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Mustang - I live in Tampa and know exactly what you're talking about...
Are you planning to have a roof or A/C on your car?
You might be best to head off the problem where it starts and get the hot engine air out of the bay by installing vents and such...
Alternatively, I'd suggest some Insulation tape (2" wide 1/8" thick black tape) that is available at Home Depot in the Plumbing (I
think) department. I used some of this along the engine side of the transmission tunnel of an old carpet-less Subaru that I had and it worked great.
If you don't like that idea, any carpet store ought to have offcuts of floor padding which also works wonderfully for insulation purposes.
I'd imagine that any vent system would be a big hastle, as rains in FL seem to be able to penetrate anything...
In an unrelated topic - I'm planning the buildup of a Skyline-powered car that will also use a straight six, would you happen to have any scans
or anything of the blueprints that you used for your rig, or have any words of wisdom?
Thanks, and the car looks great
-MR
[Edited on 28/7/03 by mranlet]
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MustangSix
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| posted on 28/7/03 at 07:28 PM |
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You can download a pdf of my preliminary chassis drawings at http://fordsix.com/locost/Collins.pdf
It will easily accomodate an L28 Nissan engine. You'll need the book to figure out some details and the front end is a little different as well
(actually simpler).
[Edited on 29/7/03 by MustangSix]
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jbmcsorley
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| posted on 29/7/03 at 02:51 PM |
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straight six plans
Hi MR of Tampa...
Once Jack (aka 'mustang' built the chassis according to the plan, we realized that there may be a little more space upfront that is
really necessary.
So what's my point?... It woud be very easy for me to shorten the front, modify the cockpit, etc. to meet your needs and print another copy of
the PDF.
Let me know if you have any other ideas.
cheers,
Jim M.
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MustangSix
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| posted on 29/7/03 at 03:00 PM |
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I recommend you contact Jim McSorley directly. While the plans I have available on my website are pretty close, Jim tweaked a few dimensions during
the course of the build.
Jim's drawings are excellent, btw. the dimensions he gave me went together like an erector set.
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mranlet
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| posted on 29/7/03 at 03:28 PM |
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Wow Jim, those plans are great! I would imagine that those were done in CAD or some 3-D autodesk?
Did you guys test the torsional rigidity of the constructed frame? I am surpsised that you didn't include a diagonal member spanning the
distance between the bottom control arm mounts and the upper outside edge of the footwells - I would think that it would add a lot to the stiffness.
Also, do you plan to add some sort of aft-engine K-member to stiffen up the top of the engine bay or just leave the frame as is?
It looks like those plans would accomodate the my Nissan engine pretty well, but the members that go from the top of the footwells to the upper
control arm mounts may pose a problem: The turbos and intake plenniums on the Skyline engines are quite large and occupy the same space that is
needed for frame. They do direct their gases through relatively smaller (2" I believe) piping which connects them to the exhaust and intake
ports, respectively. This means that I will either need to have a member running between the turbo and motor (or plennium and motor depending on the
side) and underneath the piping, and/or have a member outside of everything. The trouble with having members along the outside is that the RB series
motors (including intake and turbo sys.) are almost 36" wide! The angle that is nescessary for the outside members to meet the inside members
and nose while maintaining enough room for the upper control arms makes them almors redundant.
Although crude and possibly somewhat inaccurate, I bought a 1/24th scale Tamiya model kit with full mechanical detail so that I can really get an idea
of what I'm dealing with. I'm almost done building a frame out of wooden strips, and when the wood frame is finished, I will then use
styrene strips of appropiate scale and make sure that everything fits, at least as a 1/24th mockup. I'm going to try and take some pictures of
the model with motor and wheels somewhat fixed. I'll post them in my photo album or E-mail em so you can see what I'm talking about.
I'd love it if I could start construction on the car this year - despite being in school, I may rent a warehouse unit and work there.
Thanks a ton you your guys' help. It's also nice so see other people on the US side, let alone within driving distance...
-MR
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MustangSix
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| posted on 29/7/03 at 04:25 PM |
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As I mentioned, you'll need to fill in the details on diagonals, tunnel, etc. by referencing the book and contacting Jim.
Even better, if you happen to be in Orlando, let me know and you can look mine over personally. Maybe Jim could stop by at the same time.
[Edited on 29/7/03 by MustangSix]
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mranlet
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| posted on 30/7/03 at 01:41 PM |
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Hmmn... intriguing notion
I may just do that - I'm in Connecticut right now, but will be back in Tampa on the 20th of August and have about a week before my school starts
again. I know for sure that I'd be up there around the weekend ot September 15th, but I may make a special trip since you've made the
offer...
How much notice would you need? Should I E-mail or telephone you?
Thanks a ton, that'd be great!
-MR
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MustangSix
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| posted on 30/7/03 at 03:31 PM |
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Just send me a note at mustangsix@fordsix.com and give me at least a weeks notice. I travel a good bit and have to make several trips to Europe this
fall.
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pbura
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| posted on 31/7/03 at 03:20 AM |
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If I did this right, following should be a picure of Walter Luikey's footwell ventilation. I like this much better than the tip-out vents I had
in mind, which would probably bring in nothing but hot air for the passenger.
More about Walter's car at:
http://www.webgate.net/~rbp/
Pete B.
 
Rescued attachment r0300089.jpg
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MustangSix
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| posted on 31/7/03 at 01:49 PM |
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Thanks, Pete. I think I'm going to try to pick up cool air and pass it to the passenger compartment, but probably won't go to such
lengths as that photo.
I'm playing with some cardboard now with the idea of building a very small heater/demister/ventilator..
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mranlet
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| posted on 31/7/03 at 03:44 PM |
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Mustang, I have some pics of footwell heaters/fans from various MG's, Triumphs and Autsins. I was thinking that you might be able to get some
ideas from them. If you want I could send em over to you... I know that at least one style of footwell cooler sources air from a small vent above
the footwells and uses a plumbing trap style duct with a small drainage tube (which runs along the inside edge of the transmission tunnel) and then
blows the air in from above.
Just something to think about...
-MR
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MustangSix
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| posted on 1/8/03 at 02:54 AM |
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I'm going to check out MG Midget or MGB type heaters. Maybe Spitfire. They are relatively small and self contained. I believe I can run fresh
air ducts to one fairly easily
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