The Doc
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| posted on 28/1/08 at 05:42 PM |
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Clutch Stuck to Flywheel - Again!
Not my 7. This time it's my Bedford CF Camper. Been religeously starting her up and working the clutch to avoid this but it seems a couple of
weeks lapse and I'm caught out.
Problem is I can't do the towing thing as there is a muddy field between van and road. However I'd like to free it off before it gets any
worse. Preferably without having to pull the gearbox off again.
Anyone got any bright ideas. Won't turn over on the starter with the clutch depressed. Wondered about poking the nozzle of my steam cleaner into
the bell housing to get a bit of heat on it but if that doesn't work it'll just make matters worse.
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Peter M
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| posted on 28/1/08 at 05:52 PM |
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If you can get the driven wheels of ground and on axle stands under chassis and start vehicle in gear and keep pressing clutch up and whilst in gear
and applying the brakes when clutch peddle is down.Hope fully this should do the trick.
my previous cars
my westfield build
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Dusty
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| posted on 28/1/08 at 05:52 PM |
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Start the engine in neutral and run it up to temperature to get it hot. Then try starting in first with the clutch in.
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BenB
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| posted on 28/1/08 at 05:53 PM |
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How about jacking the back of the car up getting it going nice and fast (wheels off the ground) then press down the clutch fully slam on the brakes.
Wheels should stop spinning round ASAP, momentum of the flywheel should unstick it....
Not sure if it'd work but better than any of my other ideas!!
Other ideas are a bit scary  Like jack the back of the car on a trolley jack up get to 90mph in 5th gear and then get someone to suddenly let down
the trolley jack... That would unstick it. Either that or it would rip the rear axle off 
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BenB
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| posted on 28/1/08 at 05:53 PM |
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Doh. Too slow.
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John Bonnett
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| posted on 28/1/08 at 05:54 PM |
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Hope this helps
1. With the engine and parking brake OFF and the vehicle pointed in a safe direction, use a gas station type hydraulic jack to lift both rear
wheels so they are clear of the ground by about two inches.
2. The driver then climbs into the car and confirms that there are no obstacles or people in front of the vehicle.
3. With the engine and parking brake still OFF, the transmission is shifted into high gear.
4. The engine is started and throttled up to a constant tachometer reading of about 1500 rpm.
5. The driver depresses the clutch pedal and KEEPS IT DEPRESSED.
6. With the clutch pedal depressed the brakes (parking or foot pedal, it doesn't matter which) are GENTLY applied. If the rust bond between
the flywheel and the clutch disc is fairly weak, the clutch disc should pop free during light to medium braking.
A.) Brakes should not be applied excessively hard or allowed to slip for extended periods because this will only overheat the shoes and
drums unnecessarily. However, we do have a back-up plan!
B.) If the clutch disc does not come free after a few gentle attempts as described thus proceed to more drastic measures as offered in step
7 and here you will need an assistant!
7. Confirm that the following conditions are extant:
* Engine is at 1500 rpm
* Clutch pedal is depressed fully
* Transmission is in high gear
* Rear wheels are off the ground and turning
* NO obstacles are in front of the car
* Driver is prepared to stop vehicle and switch engine off immediately!
Your assistant "snaps" open the valve of the hydraulic jack and the rear of the car drops to the ground. Because the clutch pedal is
depressed, only rust is holding the clutch disc to the flywheel. When the rear wheels hit the ground the engine attempts to move the car forward
(transmission in high gear remember?) but the rust bond between the clutch disc and the flywheel breaks under the torque load. The clutch disc should
break away from the flywheel with the finesse comparable to that of an experienced child who can separate an Oreo cookie from the white stuff without
generating a crumb!
This method is gentle and effective even if step 7 must be repeated (a rare situation) because the vehicle is never subjected to the
"irresistible force meeting an immovable object scenario", since the car can move forward should the clutch disc not break free when the
rear wheels hit the ground.
This technique is by no means new! As a matter of interest my first encounter with this problem was during World War II (1943) when my father decided
to resurrect a 1929 Model A Ford Coupe which had been languishing for years with a collection of outdated, horse drawn farm machinery in a dilapidated
shed on our farm!
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johnemms
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| posted on 28/1/08 at 06:35 PM |
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Simply drill a hole in the bell housing - get someone to depress the clutch - insert long flat screwdriver and prise apart......
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 28/1/08 at 06:45 PM |
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IIRC the CF has a removable lower cover on the bell housing. You may be able to slacken the clutch bolts and release the plate without taking the box
out.
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Peteff
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| posted on 28/1/08 at 07:27 PM |
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Jack one back wheel up, rev it till it gets warm then stick it in gear and brake with the accelerator still pressed. Don't do like I did, cram
it in gear on the overrun with the wheels still on the floor. It released the clutch after I knocked my bike through the shed door and split the
nosecone on the car
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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thomas4age
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| posted on 28/1/08 at 07:55 PM |
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Have the missus putting her foot on the clutch pedal and depress it, stick a screwdriver inbetween the clutch and the flywheel and/or if it's
stuck to the presureplate inbetween those, wiggle softly (the screwdriver that is), turn the crank a quarter with a wrench on the front pully bolt,
repeat till you've had 360 degrees, and it's loose again.
had that with the x-flow a couple of times after the winterly hybernation period.
I got the screwdriver in through the clutchfork hole. otherwise drill a hole like John said. but by all means don't pull the box off far to much
work for something this stupid.
grtz Thomas
If Lucas made guns, Wars wouldn't start either.
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t.j.
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| posted on 28/1/08 at 08:16 PM |
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If not too much sticky.
1. push down clutch-pedal
2. brakes on
3. chose highest gear
4. start engine shortly(not too long!)
If you lucky it will release.
Please feel free to correct my bad English, i'm still learning. Your Dutch is awfull! :-)
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The Doc
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| posted on 1/2/08 at 01:36 AM |
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Thanks Lads!
The jacking up back end and braking thing did the trick a treat!
Mike
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Schrodinger
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| posted on 1/2/08 at 10:22 PM |
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Now find some way to keep the pedal pressed to the floor while parked up 
Keith
Aviemore
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The Doc
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| posted on 3/2/08 at 09:06 PM |
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Does this not weaken the springs?
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thomas4age
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| posted on 4/2/08 at 02:27 PM |
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Not if you fully depres tje clutch, the springs will then be over their dead spot.
grtz Thomas
If Lucas made guns, Wars wouldn't start either.
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