blakep82
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| posted on 18/2/13 at 11:58 PM |
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draining compressor
I have to admit, I'm not very good at draining my compressor after I've used it, which is bad, and I guess in the long run, dangerous.
Its in a very awkward place, not easy to turn, and not easy to tighten and seal after its drained. I'm looking at trying a modification to make
it easier
What size thread is the drain screw likely to be? I guess they're generally standard? Its a clarke 150l one.
I thought 1/4" npt, but when I look for bits, they're in america, and the ones here are 1/4" bsp?
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Fred W B
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| posted on 19/2/13 at 05:38 AM |
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In the small sizes BSP and NPT are so close as to make no practical difference.
Cheers
Fred W B
You can do it quickly. You can do it cheap. You can do it right. – Pick any two.
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r1_pete
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| posted on 19/2/13 at 08:03 AM |
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I think you'll find the fitting in the tank which the drain screw assembly fits into is 1/4" BSP, the thread will be about 1/2 dia but
tapered.
[Edited on 19/2/13 by r1_pete]
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owelly
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| posted on 19/2/13 at 09:35 AM |
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My compressor had a 1/8"bsp drain cock that was a fiddly critter to get at. I extended it with copper pipe and put a 1/4 turn valve that pointed
to a srain just outside my garage door.
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk
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blakep82
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| posted on 19/2/13 at 12:11 PM |
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Hmm, machine mart seem to sell 3/8" drain taps, a 3/8" to 1/4 reducer, and then nothing else of any useful size that fits either
www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/range/guid/E05B1C89-438D-4C1A-869F-253E794EAA6E?da=1&TC=SRC-drain+tap
The plan is to stick a ball valve on it somehow. I guess I'll have to go in the shop next time I'm there to get bits I need
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don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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NS Dev
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| posted on 25/2/13 at 07:42 PM |
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240v timer relay and 240v solenoid valve if you want to get really clever
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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JoelP
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| posted on 25/2/13 at 08:02 PM |
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I didn't even know you had to drain them!
Beware! Bourettes is binfectious.
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blakep82
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| posted on 25/2/13 at 08:13 PM |
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Ha ha Nat, im not made of money! And doesnt have power to it unless im using it. Though a 240v solenoid valve and a switch on a spur from the 32a
plug...
Keep it simple! Ha ha, guess I'll have to get the tap out and take it to machine mart or something for the right size
Yep joel, get it drained! Bottom of the tank, open the valve. Get a video of how much comes out :O
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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NS Dev
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| posted on 26/2/13 at 08:15 PM |
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In humid conditions our workshop one generates a couple of litres a day, and the blasting compressor, well, in a 6 hour session there's a LOT of
water from the two separators, but that is 50hp 130cfm!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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blakep82
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| posted on 26/2/13 at 08:31 PM |
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mines only on when i use it, which isn't much. when i open the tap, the most i've had is a few ml really, but i don't drain it as
often as i should...
a few elbow pipes and a ball valve will do the trick i think
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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907
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| posted on 26/2/13 at 10:43 PM |
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Have you thought of using nylon?
A 1/4" bsp swivel elbow. (with reducing bush if you have a larger drain plug)
Length of nylon tube. (6mm dia would be plenty)
Straight connector. (6mm to 1/4 bsp)
1/4" ball valve
As your drain is awkward to get to you would end up with a remote drain point.
My air lines that run around my workshop roof are all push fit nylon.
Cheers,
Paul G
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