smart51
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| posted on 26/7/05 at 11:30 AM |
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rivets in fibreglass
It's now time for me to fit my bonnet catches. I'd planned to use nuts and bolts with large load spreading washers but there are a couple
of problems.
One of the catches has to go where I've already glued in the inner pannel in the foot well and so I can't get to the inside surface of the
GRP.
Four of the fastenings have to go where the GRP is close to the chassis tubes - not close enough to get a rivnut in properly but not far enough away
to get a nut and washer in. Where I can I will use washers but my question is:
Is it OK to rivet to GRP or will it pull through?
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NS Dev
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| posted on 26/7/05 at 11:34 AM |
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You can rivet to GRP but you need special rivets, std pop rivets will pull through.
One of the aircraft types on here will know the name of the rivet that you need, it's on of those that split into 4 segments as you clinch them
up.
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nick205
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| posted on 26/7/05 at 11:54 AM |
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I've rivetted an ally number plate bracket to my nose cone. I made up another ally plate to go on the inside of the nose cone, so the rivets
are actually clamping the aly plates with the GRP sandwiched in between. This seems pretty solid and doesn't stress the GRP by trying to pop
the rivet against it.
As it's got to hold your bonnet down make sure it's robust - a couple of people on here have had their bonnets part company with their
cars 
Cheers
Nick
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ned
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| posted on 26/7/05 at 12:04 PM |
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as nick says, just put a bit of ally on the back and drill through that and get a sandwich with the fibrglass in the middle, this spreads the load
onto the fibreglass nicely.
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
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Mix
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| posted on 26/7/05 at 12:15 PM |
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Or even easier, use rivet burrs. These are thin washers with the same size hole as the rivet shank placed over the back of the rivet prior to setting.
Make your own from washers.
Mick
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Humbug
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| posted on 26/7/05 at 03:55 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Mix
Or even easier, use rivet burrs. These are thin washers with the same size hole as the rivet shank placed over the back of the rivet prior to setting.
Make your own from washers.
Mick
That's what I used - left over from the first set of pop rivets I ever bought (some years ago)... mind you, the strength of these has not yet
been tested in action!
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RazMan
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| posted on 26/7/05 at 09:52 PM |
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Belt & braces precaution - use PU adhesive along with the alloy strip. It is suprising how much extra strength this gives to the bond.
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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Liam
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| posted on 27/7/05 at 05:00 AM |
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Hello...
The correct type of rivet to use is the peel rivet. As you pull the mandrel through, the tail splits into 3 or 4 sections and opens out (like a
flower) giving a large bearing surface on the blind side. Should be able to pick em up from your local fastening supplier.
Liam
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NS Dev
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| posted on 27/7/05 at 07:03 AM |
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They're the beauties......thanks Liam!
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nicklondon
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| posted on 27/7/05 at 08:10 AM |
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i have some peel pop rivets here if you only need a few.
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NS Dev
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| posted on 27/7/05 at 09:33 AM |
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Ahhhh, hadn't spotted you on here before, Nuneaton eh! Have you been to the pub meet?
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smart51
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| posted on 27/7/05 at 10:39 AM |
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I've found a solution. There are fastenings for each bonnet catch, one of which will go right through the square chassis tube and the other
just underneath the tube. These will go through an aluminium plate 30mm by 35mm and will be tightened by nylocks. the lower bolt will pull against
the plate and so I don't need to fasten to the GRP any more. In the footwell, they will go through the inner panel as well but as they are so
high up, they cannot be seen.
It's a bit of a bodge, but what can't be seen ...
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nicklondon
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| posted on 27/7/05 at 01:36 PM |
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yes back in december.work has stop any recent visits
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