Dillinger1977
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| posted on 7/8/05 at 12:27 PM |
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front nosecone notch
can anyone post any pics of how they've notched the side panel front lower corner to get the nosecone to fit?
im guessing it needs a squareish tab removed from the bottom but by the looks of it, you'd be left with a hole as the corner of the sidepanel
protrudes out of a gentler corner of the nosecone.
any tips?
cheers!
-Rog
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smart51
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| posted on 7/8/05 at 12:52 PM |
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no picture, sorry, but a description if that helps.
put a piece of masking tape on the lower side panel. Sit the nose cone on the body slightly to one side so that the lower part of the side panel sits
inside the nose cone. draw on the tape with a pen, using the nosecone flange as an outline. Cut the side panel close to the line an file a bit off
at a time unit it fits.
You may need to file the end of the side panel so that it meets the nose cone evenly. there is a slight curve to my nose cone. More filing in a
little-by-little style but the results are worth it.
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marc n
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| posted on 8/8/05 at 07:26 AM |
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yep colins description sounds spot on
best regards
marc
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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Dillinger1977
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| posted on 8/8/05 at 03:13 PM |
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heres what i was meaning about the protruding corner.
i havent done it yet, its just a mockup (i love photoshop!) 
do you see what i mean about how the side panel has a sharp corner radius, and the nosecone is very rounded.
i'd imagine that there'll be a little bit of a corner poking out of the bottom. or is it in such a place you just dont notice?
or do you pull the lower corners inside the nose quite a lot?
do you still have the white one about marc? i might come and have a look. 
[Edited on 8/8/05 by Dillinger1977]
-Rog
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Dillinger1977
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| posted on 8/8/05 at 07:16 PM |
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heres what i meant. anyone got any ideas? 
cheers.
Rog
-Rog
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smart51
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| posted on 8/8/05 at 08:27 PM |
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Ah yes. I have the same problem. I'd forgotton about that. It was deemed to be a "it's bolted on - leave the details to the
tidying up stage at the end" type of job. Yours, like mine, would interest an SVA inspector. I think half of the problem with me forgetting
this is that it is out of sight in a small garage unless you kneel down.
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marc n
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| posted on 8/8/05 at 08:46 PM |
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this is what it looks like on the white car
 
Rescued attachment nosecone-notch.jpg
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Dillinger1977
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| posted on 8/8/05 at 10:25 PM |
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cheers for the pic marc
ahh, it looks like youve pulled in the lower corner a little more into the nose.
i can imagine that might still leave a small corner, did you shape it and use filler to blend it in?
-Rog
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smart51
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| posted on 9/8/05 at 07:16 AM |
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Oh! I've bonded my side panels to the chassis like in the picture posted by Dillinger. How can I fix this then?
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marc n
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| posted on 9/8/05 at 08:27 AM |
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quote:
ahh, it looks like youve pulled in the lower corner a little more into the nose.
quote:
i can imagine that might still leave a small corner, did you shape it and use filler to blend it in?
all i did was slit the side and warm up the fibreglass and curve it to the nosecone then seal the slot
not very easy to explain
hope it helps
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marc n
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| posted on 9/8/05 at 08:29 AM |
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quote:
Oh! I've bonded my side panels to the chassis like in the picture posted by Dillinger. How can I fix this then?
not sure colin you may have to release the bonding agent or slit the side panel bottom edge
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smart51
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| posted on 9/8/05 at 09:19 AM |
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If you squeeze in the side panels, you expose the sharp edges of the nose cone. How do these get through SVA?
How do you remove PU adhesive?
[Edited on 9-8-2005 by smart51]
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marc n
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| posted on 9/8/05 at 11:41 AM |
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car as seen in pic passed sva rad check !!!!!
dont know about the solvent side of things ??
best regards
marc
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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smart51
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| posted on 10/8/05 at 09:24 AM |
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how about this. if I cut the bottom corner of the side panel back so that it is under the wishbone, will it look OK / Pass SVA / be safe
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Dillinger1977
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| posted on 10/8/05 at 10:12 AM |
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thats something i was previously considering, just having a gap underneath (you can see the curved pencil line on the original photo you doctored!)
still havent quite decided myself. id like to keep the side corners flush with the nose corners but that leaves it sticking out the bottom.
pushing it in means the nose sticks out the side (and there'll still be some fettling)
how should it be secured? rivets across top+bottom lip?
where did you use sealant on yours?
-Rog
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smart51
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| posted on 10/8/05 at 11:28 AM |
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I put PU along the top of the top chassis rails and put in a couple of rivets, crucially 1 at the end to stop peel. A few clamps held it in place
over night. I then put PU on the underside of the lower rail and riveted, clamped. for neatness and extra strength, I ran a bead of PU in the gaps
as the GRP was a bit bigger than the chassis.
I agree that the sides flush with the nose cone looks better. It;s just as well as my only other option is to strip it all off and start again.
If I were doing it again, I'd fit the nose cone properly between gluing on the top and bottom of the sides. I fastened the nose cone with
clamps and the results are not 100% perfect. I think the nose cone may have moved by a mm or two. It looks OK though.
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