turbodisplay
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 posted on 7/4/10 at 06:30 PM |
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Opinions on this dash please
Currently doing the next dash in the range, looking to have a dial for rpm on this one. For bec I`m lookin to make a 14k rpm dial, is this high
enought or do I need 15k?
Just wondering what people think/improvements?
The Gear and speed indication will be top left, the bottom right will have a 20 character, 4 line display.
 
dash2
Also I could probally do with a better name - any sugestions? 
Thanks
Darren
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Richard Quinn
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| posted on 7/4/10 at 06:47 PM |
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Dunno. Darren seems ok to me 
Is the tacho analogue or segment LCD/LED thingy? The rest of it looks fine to me.
ETA - 14k is probably ok for most. Certainly ok for me as the max rpm logged on my V twin is "only" 11,450 
[Edited on 7/4/10 by Richard Quinn]
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turbodisplay
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| posted on 7/4/10 at 07:00 PM |
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Cheers for the reply.
Analogue pointer- using a stepper motor, so accurate indication of rpm. Might put more segments to indicate 250 and 750 divisons rather than just 500
rpm markers .
Thanks
Darren
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NigeEss
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| posted on 7/4/10 at 07:11 PM |
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Looks a bit odd with the 3/4 circle tacho and a big space. I'd prefer a full circle.
Other than that, looks good.
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deltron63
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| posted on 7/4/10 at 07:16 PM |
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looks good but needs a full tacho
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TimC
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| posted on 7/4/10 at 07:19 PM |
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14k will be enough for the vast majority.
Can you use the space where the tacho is blanked for a proper shift light?
If so, I'd be very interested.
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Hammerhead
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| posted on 7/4/10 at 07:33 PM |
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my effort (with shift light) I'd suggest trying to keep all the most vital info to the centre.
Image deleted by owner
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turbodisplay
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| posted on 7/4/10 at 07:54 PM |
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Hammerhead thanks for the input, that does look better! Much aprecciated!
The smallest lcd is about 45 * 80 mm so might work that way round. I like the shift light idea, maybee a large RGB led so the colour can change at
the shift point.
Ill look into that and see if it is possible.
Thanks
Darren
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franky
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| posted on 7/4/10 at 08:07 PM |
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are you having a decent motor on the tacho? A layout like stack's would be best IMO...
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AndyGT
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| posted on 7/4/10 at 08:46 PM |
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Just my 2peneth, but why not stick to your original layout and put the gear in the empty space next to the tacho and a shift light as described in the
space made by moving the gear indicator?
nothing is impossible
everything is possible
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turbodisplay
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| posted on 8/4/10 at 07:21 AM |
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Looking at using the stepper motor used in bmw dashes so will be a good motor.
A stack style layout will require a new case to be made up.
I`ll have a play with both layouts then do a poll.
Thanks
Darren
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scudderfish
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| posted on 8/4/10 at 07:51 AM |
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I really like Hammerhead's layout. However don't forget us CEC owners, my engine redlines at 6k RPM, and the big thing coming out of the
tunnel is my gear indicator
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 8/4/10 at 11:28 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by turbodisplay
Looking at using the stepper motor used in bmw dashes so will be a good motor.
The driver makes as much or more difference than the motor. Micro-stepping is essential to get smooth movement on tachometers and speedometers with
commercial gauge steppers. There are a few manufacturers that make driver ICs that do all the hard work for you e.g.
Freescale.
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hicost blade
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| posted on 8/4/10 at 12:43 PM |
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I would be tempted to go for a shape you can see through a steering wheel, I had a quick sketch over lunch break. This is the kind of thing another
manufacturer is looking at doing very soon 
 
Description
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turbodisplay
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| posted on 8/4/10 at 01:40 PM |
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It will be used with a driver that does mirco stepping.
Hicost, that does look good!, problem is that the case will cost many £, if I use CNC ali.
The RPM dial will be an insert, if it does not cost too much it may be worth making a 0-7k rpm face.
Thanks
Darren
[Edited on 8/4/10 by turbodisplay]
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hicost blade
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| posted on 8/4/10 at 02:00 PM |
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How is your case made at the moment?
I would low pressure die cast it, the first few could be sand cast.....I know a guy........
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turbodisplay
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| posted on 8/4/10 at 02:25 PM |
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I tried casting, problem is that there is non linear shrinkage and air pokets that ruin the finish, if it is then CNCmilled it works out more
expensive than CNC milling a solid block.
Thanks
Darren
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hicost blade
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| posted on 8/4/10 at 06:49 PM |
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I had another little go, you could vacuum form it.....
 
Description
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turbodisplay
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| posted on 8/4/10 at 07:29 PM |
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Hicost that is an amazing bit of art!
I think it may have to be CNC milling or the idea of vacuum forming might work, did that is school and found out it is not as great a process as it
would appear to be. Mainly because it was not too accurate and secondly it did not like forming in corners.
I`ll have a play in CAD and get some mockups done.
Thanks
Darren
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hicost blade
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| posted on 9/4/10 at 04:18 PM |
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^^ Is a combination of Solidworks and Photoshop. Vacuum forming can be quite accurate if done by the right people in the right material, many products
are vacuum formed that people would swear blind they are injection moulded.
I would still look into casting it, a mould with correctly designed runners and risers, uniform thickness would allow the aluminium to flow and cool
properly, or chuck £6,000 at it and get an injection moulding done.
[Edited on 9/4/10 by hicost blade]
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