mookaloid
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| posted on 12/11/10 at 11:18 AM |
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Peugeot 306 diesel
For some strange reason my nephew likes Peugeot 306's - his current one which he paid £1000 less than a year ago for has a slipping clutch and
the back axle seems to be falling off.
Even stranger he wants to buy another and he wants me to look at one he has found to see if it is ok - I can't think of anything worse to do on
a saturday morning my self but I suppose I should help where I can.......
So knowledgeable people on LCB what problems should I be looking for on a peugeot 306 diesel with 130k miles on it? What is the back axle issue that
they all seem to suffer from and how do I spot it? I tried telling him to avoid it like the plague but that doesn't seem to be an option. 
Many thanks in advance
Cheers
Mooky
"That thing you're thinking - it wont be that."
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coozer
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| posted on 12/11/10 at 11:33 AM |
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Shout at the Co-op driver, turn your phone off and have a long lie in
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 12/11/10 at 11:48 AM |
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The problem with the rear axles is two fold: the rubber mountings that attach the axle assembly to the body perish and fall apart (fairly cheap and
easy to fix), but the main problem is the bearings that the trailing arms pivot on wear out and break up with age, giving lots of movement at the
wheel. If the bearings are in a bad way there will be a noticeable amount amount of negative camber on the rear wheels. The bearings can be replaced
if no too far gone, but if left the bearing housing gets worn away making repair impossible to expensive. If you can find a good complete rear beam
assembly s/h it's not too bad a job to swap it all over.
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will121
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| posted on 12/11/10 at 11:49 AM |
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i had a 2000 306 diesel from new till 225k miles with no major problems, think rear axle problems are the subframe mounting bushes, which requires the
subframe to be dropped to replace, would expect if getting bad may have been issued with an advisory if its had a recent MoT so worth looking at not
just the certificate (can also look on line if you have the Mot details) failing that a look under neath with a pry bar.
also worth looking at all teh electrics work as another French issue, finally clutch this is not always the actual clutch, ive been told that the
clutch cable runs close to the exhaust (on Diesels anyway) which causes the cable to dry and stick
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mookaloid
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| posted on 12/11/10 at 11:53 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by coozer
Shout at the Co-op driver, turn your phone off and have a long lie in
Did that last week 
"That thing you're thinking - it wont be that."
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ChrisW
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| posted on 12/11/10 at 01:45 PM |
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As has been said, the main problem with the rear beam causes excess negative camber, so have a good look at the car from behind.
The rear brake calipers are notorious for being crap, which is only really an issue for the handbrake.
Changing the whole rear subframe isn't a difficult job. The S16 one has stiffer torsion bars (I think, may be ARB's) so it's the
desirable one.
Chris
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mookaloid
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| posted on 12/11/10 at 01:52 PM |
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Thanks guys - anything else?
"That thing you're thinking - it wont be that."
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UncleFista
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| posted on 12/11/10 at 01:56 PM |
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On the HDi, if there's a knocking from the pulley end of the engine, use it as a bargaining tool, then replace the harmonic damper pulley for
£30-40 
The early versions are almost a service part, the later replacements last much longer.
Tony Bond / UncleFista
Love is like a snowmobile, speeding across the frozen tundra.
Which suddenly flips, pinning you underneath.
At night the ice-weasels come...
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zilspeed
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| posted on 12/11/10 at 03:25 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by UncleFista
On the HDi, if there's a knocking from the pulley end of the engine, use it as a bargaining tool, then replace the harmonic damper pulley for
£30-40
The early versions are almost a service part, the later replacements last much longer.
Or spark it together with your mig for nothing
Remember to keep a bucket of water nearby for putting the fire out when the rubber bit catches fire.
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PSpirine
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| posted on 12/11/10 at 04:15 PM |
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Had one for a while before it blew up in Belgium.
Main worry is definitely the rear axle - particularly as you can only realistically replace it with another used one (proper refurbs cost silly money
as do new ones if you can get them).
If it's got alloys, check the camber by putting your hand between the tyre and the inner wheel arch at the top of the wheel. You should have at
least 10mm between the tyre and the arch liner.
If the arch liner isn't there, it's likely to have been removed or trimmed away as the wheel started rubbing.
If the arch liner isn't there and the wheel has rubbed on the metal, then it's properly wankered.
Engines seem alright (I can only talk about the TurboDiesels, the ones to have!), as long as you change the belt (not too bad a job to be honest) -
pull off the inlet hose going into the intercooler and make sure there isn't significant amounts of oil in there (Turbo seals weeping, then the
engine self perpetually runs on it's own oil - quite happily revving with no input from me to 8k rpm in my case!).
Worth looking for one with the right interior/feature goodies as it's not economical to retrofit most things.
Phase 1's (More square lights) had Bosch injection pumps, and will run on vegetable oil. Also very easy to tune for more poke (and smoke!).
Later models had things like side airbags (usually broken) and a slightly different interior.
The sunroof can break. This isn't a switch breaking, this is actual cracking/breaking of one of the actuating arms that moves the glass. Best
keep it closed and enjoy the sunshine!
Another maaaajor hassle is the body to door wiring - the way it was designed is such that it twists it over itself when you open/close the door and so
the wires break which usually leads to intermittent issues with central locking and window winders (on mine, the window wouldn't work unless the
door was closed... better than the other way round I suppose). The only fix is to get new wire and solder it in.. as there's a fair few of them
there, not the most pleasant job.
Overall I thought it was a brilliant car except for the gremlins mentioned above. Having said that I did pay £500 at a dealer, and would have been
significantly more annoyed had I paid £1000 for one.
In fact I still have some beefy front brakes for one and a complete timing belt kit along with other goodies. Best get them on the bay!
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dhutch
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| posted on 12/11/10 at 05:26 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ChrisW
As has been said, the main problem with the rear beam causes excess negative camber, so have a good look at the car from behind.
The rear brake calipers are notorious for being crap, which is only really an issue for the handbrake.
Changing the whole rear subframe isn't a difficult job. The S16 one has stiffer torsion bars (I think, may be ARB's) so it's the
desirable one.
Sounds good to me, the issue with the handbrake on rear calipers is only on the disks. Rairly a issue for MOT but they are fairly poor, only really
and issue for me as i occasionally autotest in it when its too wet/cold to feel like driving the kitcar and its then a bit intermittent for locking
them up (bearing in mind its wet).
quote:
Originally posted by UncleFista
On the HDi, if there's a knocking from the pulley end of the engine, use it as a bargaining tool, then replace the harmonic damper pulley for
£30-40
The early versions are almost a service part, the later replacements last much longer.
Yes, the last one we bought we actaully got a cambelt out of them to try and cure it (there suggestion not ours) you can clearly see the aux belt
idler shaking about 10mm at tickover. Should clear up much above that. We then had them replace the harmonic pulley, belt, and tensioner. Still didnt
cause it but even with the 'fault' it did 25k troble free miles over two years before sale.
If the radio key fob doesnt work, you can try a new battery in it and reprogramming it to the car (details on pug306.net) but if that doesnt do it
dont hold up for any other easy fixes.
Ive had a rear wiper motor go which takes out the front windows (shared fuse) but again they about second hand.
No real rush issues anywhere as there on zinc phosphated. If there is rust its probably a repair job.
Second hand front bumpers fetch a fair bit and move fast if you hoping to get one for £20 they are more like £65 and two months wait.
The half leathers on the merdian spec ones are desirable items, nice to sit in, and when i broke one of our 306's i got £250 for them the same
day.
1800 petrols are nice and not much worse MPG than the 1600 (personal choice) dturbos well known for being good but not awesome mpg for a deisal, hdi
nice but costly and a bit nose heavy is pushed to the limit, nat asp deisals a bit guttless as is the 1400.
Cracking cars tho, we've had four now, the 1600 got to 150k (bought at 3yo) without issue and the hdi had simular millage (bought two years ago)
and my 1800 is a baby at 50k and tows the kitcar (1100kg ish) without much problem.
Daniel
[Edited on 12/11/2010 by dhutch]
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dilley
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| posted on 12/11/10 at 06:21 PM |
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Avoid the dw8 engine as they are crap!
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 12/11/10 at 07:46 PM |
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No one seems to have mentioned a leaking heater matrix which the 306 suffers from and is a dash out job !Part isn't expensive but don't
disconnect the hoses as they can be a pain.
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UncleFista
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| posted on 13/11/10 at 02:01 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by dhutch
The half leathers on the merdian spec ones are desirable items, nice to sit in, and when i broke one of our 306's i got £250 for them the same
day.[Edited on 12/11/2010 by dhutch]
Don't bank on a lot for a half leather interior, I bought mine complete with seats, door cards trim etc. like new, no wear for £30 on eBay
Tony Bond / UncleFista
Love is like a snowmobile, speeding across the frozen tundra.
Which suddenly flips, pinning you underneath.
At night the ice-weasels come...
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Ninehigh
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| posted on 13/11/10 at 02:48 AM |
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Do not get the non-turbo diesel. It lacked power so much I was blasting it everywhere just to get it moving
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ChrisW
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| posted on 15/11/10 at 05:58 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
No one seems to have mentioned a leaking heater matrix which the 306 suffers from and is a dash out job !Part isn't expensive but don't
disconnect the hoses as they can be a pain.
Good point. I changed one in my cabriolet. Not a pleasant job!
Chris
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