Fencewrecker
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| posted on 10/11/13 at 12:47 PM |
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Clutches on Mazda MX5 engined cars
Help! I have a 1.8 Mazda engine driving a 7 via std box and diff.
On a recent track day I got clutch slip when changing from 3rd to 4th at high revs.
My question is: as I am running an MX5 std clutch with only 3000 miles use, what clutch replacement do people recommend.
Also have others had the same problem.
Thanks
Dave
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Slimy38
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| posted on 10/11/13 at 01:32 PM |
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I have to admit, after a few months on mx5nutz this is the first time I've heard of a standard clutch slip. What makes it all the more unusual
is the fact that it's in a car almost 500 kilos lighter.
As far as I can gather the MX5 owners tend to look for new clutches when they have forced induction, even a quick search for 'new clutch'
only brings back posts relevant to big turbo's and similar.
I'm guessing that because you know the history that you were the one to replace the clutch? Did you use a brand name or OEM clutch? Are Borg and
Beck still going, they seemed to have a good rep?
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 10/11/13 at 02:48 PM |
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I'd agree with Slimy, very unusual to have a new, standard clutch slip especially in something as light as a Locost. More likely would be a
problem with the hydraulics or operating linkages keeping pressure on the release bearing.
Assuming the clutch end is all standard Mazda, does your pedal box definitely allow the master cylinder to fully return? If not then this a recipe
for clutch slip.
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Tazzzzman1
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| posted on 10/11/13 at 04:18 PM |
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I recently had issues with my clutch on the Sr2 running standard MX5 1.8i and gearbox/ diff.
Mine wasn't slipping but was dragging, making it almost impossible to select gears. Seemed to get worse the warmer the clutch/ engine became.
When we took it apart we found one of the pressure plate fingers had bent outwards....really annoying as clutch had only done 1.5K miles....
Ended up fitting a new one and 3K miles later still okay.
If yours is slipping I would check to see if you have sufficient play between slave cylinder actuator pin and clutch lever ( we had an issue on the
new clutch slipping and had to shorten the pin by 10mm to give correct throw on lever), Only other thing I can think of is a damaged pressure plate or
too much grease applied to splines when fitting which has now worked its way onto the clutch plates.....
HTH
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Fencewrecker
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| posted on 10/11/13 at 08:42 PM |
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Hi all
Thanks for responses, the clutch was an after-market not OEM, I fitted it new during the build. The slave actuator pin has sufficient free play
checked this out first as that was my thought. However the clutch bite point has always felt high on the pedal, combined with no drag. So I have come
to the conclusion its either a faulty pressure plate or I need a stiffer sprung one. Interestingly the clutch is fine for normal street driving.
I have just bought a hoist so will be removing the engine and stripping the clutch in the next few weeks, so will post findings.
I would welcome posts on recommendations for whether to buy a OEM, Stage 1 or Stage 2 and the best sources at reasonable prices.
Thanks
Dave
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