BATHO
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| posted on 23/4/10 at 04:11 PM |
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Help needed with cooling issue!
Having a problem with cooling if anyone has any suggestions....Fan kicks in and out when standing and driven at normal speed, but when driven hard or
at a constent high speed it stays on continuosly and the fan struggles to keep the temperature under control so i have to stop! I was thinking about
putting louvers and holes in the top of the bonnet but i have noticed not everybody does this and i don't really want to hack my bonnet if this
isn't the problem! i'm running a triumph spitfire 1500 with a cortina radiator and 15" fan with an adjustable fan switch and no
heater , any ideas would be great
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dogwood
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| posted on 23/4/10 at 04:18 PM |
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Cant say I can help with your prob.
But you defo dont need to cut holes
I run a 2.0 Pinto with a Polo rad.
I did a run dayb4 yesterday 22deg all day.
Round trip 200 miles, only time the fan came on was when i got home an was putting the car away.
Fan switches in at about 105deg.
Is your fan a sucker or blower.
Sometimes having the fan infront of the rad blocks the natural coolmng.
FREE THE ROADSTER ONE…!!
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 23/4/10 at 04:26 PM |
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I have a 2.0 pinto on a micra rad, so your cortina rad should keep the spit unit rrreally coool.
Have you checked for obstructions, airlocks etc, have the vanes on your water pump corroded away?
I cut vents in my bonnet to keep it cool when stuck in traffic, but made no difference at all so don't bother.
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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russbost
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| posted on 23/4/10 at 04:45 PM |
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One thing which can make a truly massive difference, particularly when on the move is if you have the air ducted to the rad so it can' t escape
or "leak" round the rad sides - same goes for the fan on the other side, if it can draw air other than thro' the rad you'll
waste tons of cooling effect. One further thin is that the hot air needs to be able to escape somewhere & it will want to rise rather than go down
beneath the car, so you may need some louvres, but would defo try the ducting/sealing solution first.
I no longer run Furore Products or Furore Cars Ltd, but would still highly recommend them for Acewell dashes, projector headlights, dominator
headlights, indicators, mirrors etc, best prices in the UK! Take a look at http://www.furoreproducts.co.uk/ or find more parts on Ebay, user names
furoreltd & furoreproducts, discounts available for LCB users.
Don't forget Stainless Steel Braided brake hoses, made to your exact requirements in any of around 16 colours.
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/furoreproducts/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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BATHO
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| posted on 23/4/10 at 04:49 PM |
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Fan is a sucker type and i've just fitted a new water pump. I was going to up grade to a polo rad and exspansion tank but not sure if this would
make much difference!
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BATHO
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| posted on 23/4/10 at 04:53 PM |
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Russbost, i have about 25mm gap around my radiator would this make a massive difference?
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britishtrident
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| posted on 23/4/10 at 06:33 PM |
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Simples problem is down to ignition timing being way to retarded - Check the centrifugal advance is working (also very sparingly lubricated the
mechanism and twist the shaft clockwise and counter clockwise a few times) ) , gap the points to 0.015" and set the ignition timing
properly.
With things like this you have learn to see the wood from the trees, and not jump to the conclusion it is a radiator or air flow or water flow issue.
If the ignition is too retarded you get a massive increase in the heat energy rejected to the cooling system and exhaust system especially as the
crankshaft speed increases.
[Edited on 23/4/10 by britishtrident]
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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prawnabie
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| posted on 23/4/10 at 06:49 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by russbost
One thing which can make a truly massive difference, particularly when on the move is if you have the air ducted to the rad so it can' t escape
or "leak" round the rad sides - same goes for the fan on the other side, if it can draw air other than thro' the rad you'll
waste tons of cooling effect. One further thin is that the hot air needs to be able to escape somewhere & it will want to rise rather than go down
beneath the car, so you may need some louvres, but would defo try the ducting/sealing solution first.
I agree with the ducting suggestion - that alone made the difference between the fan coming on at below 20mph on my car and it only coming on when
stuck in traffic for a few mins.
Shaun
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russbost
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| posted on 27/4/10 at 05:49 PM |
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Batho, I would say a 25mm gap is certainly enough to make a significant difference, particularly at higher speeds - whether it's enough to cure
your prob ...............????
I no longer run Furore Products or Furore Cars Ltd, but would still highly recommend them for Acewell dashes, projector headlights, dominator
headlights, indicators, mirrors etc, best prices in the UK! Take a look at http://www.furoreproducts.co.uk/ or find more parts on Ebay, user names
furoreltd & furoreproducts, discounts available for LCB users.
Don't forget Stainless Steel Braided brake hoses, made to your exact requirements in any of around 16 colours.
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/furoreproducts/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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cliftyhanger
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| posted on 8/5/10 at 07:38 AM |
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Bit late in but......
unless the rad is badly blocked (possible?) or severe airlocks, then it should easily cool a spitfire. In fact the fan shouldn't be needed at
all when moving.......
As above the problem is bound to be with the engine tuning, so check that first.
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