mad-butcher
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| posted on 6/5/12 at 11:34 AM |
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maybe I'm missing something but if it's rigid rear end then chain angle doesn't matter as it's in constant tension ( as in a
chain drive diff ) to tension/adjust the chain, you only really need say 2 links play can you not slot the mounting plate for the rear axle bearing
carriers
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ChrisW
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| posted on 6/5/12 at 11:37 AM |
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The problem was more that with the tight chain angle I was worried that it would hit the engine casing, but I think I've resigned myself to the
idea that, if it proves necessary, adjusting the clearance using an angle grinder isn't the end of the world. I didn't really want to do
it that way, but it's a whole load of effort to go to for a 'proper' fix.
Chris
My gaff my rules
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Confused but excited.
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| posted on 6/5/12 at 11:56 AM |
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If you are worried that a plastic guide wheel will wear, why not just use a small free-running sprocket?
Tell them about the bent treacle edges!
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Fred W B
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| posted on 6/5/12 at 04:03 PM |
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Gearing sounds right now.
I would also prefer a proper idler sprocket, rather than a plastic roller.
With such a short chain run, you have to be carefull to keep the sprokets well aligned in the longitudinal direction. It is easier to move the engine
to adjust the chain slack, rather than trying to keep the axle square in the chassis if you move that for chain adjustment.
With the solid axle you need to keep the axle square in the chassis so that the contraption runs straight.
Cheers
Fred W B
[Edited on 6/5/12 by Fred W B]
You can do it quickly. You can do it cheap. You can do it right. – Pick any two.
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