orton1966
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| posted on 1/2/09 at 07:44 AM |
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Floating front upright design
Has anyone made or better still got plans for racing style front hubs (like pic below) with a floating i.e. rotates with the week front axle?
Fabrication wise they look quite easy, light and strong but looking for more info on the design detail
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clairetoo
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| posted on 1/2/09 at 09:35 AM |
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Do you mean something like a front wheel drive front upright ?
Its cuz I is blond , innit
Claire xx
Will weld for food......
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nitram38
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| posted on 1/2/09 at 10:26 AM |
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The only thing that you should build into that set up is some sort of wishbone adjustment, like rod ends on the wishbones.
Otherwise you will be stuck with the wrong wheel alignment if your chassis is the slightest bit out and most amateur ones will be.
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orton1966
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| posted on 1/2/09 at 11:26 AM |
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i agree, about adjustment on the wishbone, regarding the upright it just looks quite a smart simple fabrication and was hoping someone somewhere had
plans/cad files for something similar
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nitram38
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| posted on 1/2/09 at 12:18 PM |
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I made my own.
You just need a hub and bearing to measure from. A donor hub helps too.
The main things to remember is to work out your scrub/kingpin inclination in relation to your tyre patch. Also you will need to work out where the
caliper mounts will go.
Just getting a cad drawing from someone else will mean nothing if they are using different wheel size, tyre size or offsets.
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short track 123
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| posted on 1/2/09 at 12:37 PM |
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Adjustment will be on the other end of the wishbone ( chassis side ) using Rose type joints.
Jason
[Edited on 1/2/09 by short track 123]
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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v8kid
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| posted on 1/2/09 at 01:43 PM |
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Chaps what are the advantages of a "floating" design over a conventional stub axle? There must be some of people would not use them but
I'm blessed if I can see them.
Regarding adjustability using the outer rose joint to adjust camber id fraught with dangers. The shank of the rose joint os alreadily heavilt loaded
in bending and adjusting it outwards magnifies the problem - using the inner rose joints where the load is spread over two joints is a better ideas.
If you are interested Aurora Spherical Joints pyblished an article on how to calculate the loading very simply - i think it is available on thier
website.
Another way th adjust camber is to bolyt the fixing for the rose joints on with a brachet which can be shimmed thus avoiding extending the rose joint
shank.
Also has the advantage if you make the fixing bolts small enough in a crash they will shear off rather than twist the chassis mounting points.
Cheers
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 1/2/09 at 02:50 PM |
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Sorry, I am being thick - what, exactly is floating?
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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designer
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| posted on 1/2/09 at 06:00 PM |
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I think he means 'floating' where the the stub axle rotates on bearings in the upright,
A simple idea for uprights is to get a set of Mini/Metro, cut off the top and bottom pivot mountings and turn the body to make a bearing housing to
weld to.
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 1/2/09 at 07:23 PM |
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Basically just a driven hub without the drive then, you would need to turn down the outer Cv joint to maintain tension on the bearings
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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nitram38
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| posted on 1/2/09 at 07:39 PM |
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Like mine:
[img][/img]
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v8kid
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| posted on 1/2/09 at 08:37 PM |
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Yes but why do it? I may be being dense but blessed if I can see the advantage - I must be missing something here.
Cheers
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Bob C
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| posted on 2/2/09 at 12:17 AM |
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I was on thje lookout for a FWD upright for a project the other day - a long browse in the scrappies revealed, the best bet for me was a corsa - this
was to make a AWD special. I'm using front corsa uprights front & back - the steering arms are suitable to be made on the same level as the
upper BJs for the non= steering end of the car. Loads in the scrappies so cheap as chips. I'll put some pics up when I get a bit closer
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nitram38
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| posted on 2/2/09 at 12:18 AM |
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There is one big advantage......not having to compromise.
When you use a ready made item, you accept it's design limits and settings.
If you want to run a different wheel size, then kpi and scrub will be altered. Your steering rack position is determined by the steering arms on the
hub and therefore dialing out bump steer is a problem.
My rack is parrallel to the top wishbone so it runs in the same arc....no bumpsteer issues.
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dnmalc
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| posted on 2/2/09 at 06:43 PM |
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Does it not increase the unsprung mass and therefore degrades the suspension performance?
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nitram38
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| posted on 2/2/09 at 06:51 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by dnmalc
Does it not increase the unsprung mass and therefore degrades the suspension performance?
Why?
Do you think that my hollow plate uprights could be heavier than solid cast items plus the mushroom adapters required?
Even my rod ends are lighter than ball joints.
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lsdweb
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| posted on 2/2/09 at 08:46 PM |
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Mine single seater ones are floating http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/upload/broken1.jpg but the geometry is slightly out!
I'm using similar uprights on the Westfield
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