zammobhoy
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| posted on 3/12/14 at 02:03 PM |
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Westfield/Megasquirt/Zetec in Scotland
Gentlemen,
I'm building a Westfield with 1.8 zetec/GSXR 600 ITBs and Megasquirt. Although the engine starts and runs pretty even, I suspect it is way too
rich (even when AFR reads 14-15) and I'm a million miles away from getting it IVA standard. I'm wondering if there is anyone with
Megasquirt experience in Scotland (Glasgow specifically) that I could speak to that could put me on the right track with it. I have been thinking that
my inlet manifold is too long and I've left the injectors mounted in the ITBs, as opposed to fitting them in the manifold pointing at the inlet
valves. Could this be causing unburnt fuel to run into the cylinders?
Cheers,
Paul
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theprisioner
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| posted on 3/12/14 at 04:12 PM |
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The only one I know of any repute is Sitech in Rosyth - Simon Smail. He should be able to help. My understanding is the Megasquirt ECU is home
constructed so little or no support for the hardware. Some tuners avoid them like the plague. Please let me know how you get on.
http://sylvabuild.blogspot.com/
http://austin7special.blogspot.co.uk/
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hkp57
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| posted on 3/12/14 at 06:38 PM |
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Not Glasgow but if you Give Andy a shout at the Scottish Kit Car Center
Fleet
SKC Raptor R - Hayabusa
Toyota C-HR Hybrid Limited Edition
Honda VFR1200 CrossTourer
DCT
Marlin Roadster 1800
Mercedes Vito 116 Sport
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BaileyPerformance
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| posted on 3/12/14 at 09:43 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by theprisioner
The only one I know of any repute is Sitech in Rosyth - Simon Smail. He should be able to help. My understanding is the Megasquirt ECU is home
constructed so little or no support for the hardware. Some tuners avoid them like the plague. Please let me know how you get on.
We love megasquirt! And support the hardware even if home built.
We build / repair / install and map MS.
Www.facebook.com/baileyperformance
Www.baileyperformance.co.uk
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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dubzter
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| posted on 3/12/14 at 10:20 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by BaileyPerformance
quote:
Originally posted by theprisioner
The only one I know of any repute is Sitech in Rosyth - Simon Smail. He should be able to help. My understanding is the Megasquirt ECU is home
constructed so little or no support for the hardware. Some tuners avoid them like the plague. Please let me know how you get on.
We love megasquirt! And support the hardware even if home built.
We build / repair / install and map MS.
Www.facebook.com/baileyperformance
Www.baileyperformance.co.uk
Ach only 300 miles away 
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BaileyPerformance
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| posted on 3/12/14 at 10:47 PM |
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Nice (very long) day out for you!!
We've had customers from all over UK, in the past folks have stopped in the hotel down the road :-)
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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zammobhoy
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| posted on 4/12/14 at 04:24 PM |
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Thanks for the replies guys,
I know that people have made MS work and I'm determined to do that. If anything, the fact that it is a DIY ECU is more appealing to me that
paying £1k for an off-the-shelf unit (I am building a car after all  ) I recently spotted The Scottish Kit Car Centre and I work pretty close to
them so they might be the best shout for advice.
cheers,
Paul.
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baz-R
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| posted on 4/12/14 at 06:06 PM |
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are you using a wideband and controler or narrowband exhaust sensor?
also try and run about 10 deg btdc at idle to start with and make sure your engine has the same ign timing as the megasquirt is telling you.
use a fixed timing light not one that has an advance feature as wasted spark systems spark twice as often and make them read incorrect
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zammobhoy
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| posted on 5/12/14 at 11:36 AM |
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I'm using a wideband lambda sensor on the exhaust.
Totally agree on the advance mate. The standard map in TunerStudio had way to much advance at idle (20deg), so I backed the whole map off 10deg and
that improved things dramatically. Another thing that happened the other night in the garage was that the engine suddenly died and wouldn't
start. MS was still alive but clearly not triggering from the VR. Traced it to a faulty diode (d24) on the VR circuit which was replaced and now
idling much smoother. AFR sitting at 11 but it's now way more consistent than it's ever been so i should be able to adjust this to a more
reasonable level. Wonder if the timing and duff diode has been the problem all along. Might have to change that diode to a higher wattage if it
re-appears - its a V3 mainboard btw.
Cheers,
Paul.
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BaileyPerformance
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| posted on 5/12/14 at 11:55 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by zammobhoy
I'm using a wideband lambda sensor on the exhaust.
Totally agree on the advance mate. The standard map in TunerStudio had way to much advance at idle (20deg), so I backed the whole map off 10deg and
that improved things dramatically. Another thing that happened the other night in the garage was that the engine suddenly died and wouldn't
start. MS was still alive but clearly not triggering from the VR. Traced it to a faulty diode (d24) on the VR circuit which was replaced and now
idling much smoother. AFR sitting at 11 but it's now way more consistent than it's ever been so i should be able to adjust this to a more
reasonable level. Wonder if the timing and duff diode has been the problem all along. Might have to change that diode to a higher wattage if it
re-appears - its a V3 mainboard btw.
Cheers,
Paul.
D24 should be a fast recovery signal diode, IN4148 in the later ECUs, IN4001 in the early versions.
I've never seen that diode fail, could be a one off, or you have power and grounding issues
Dale.
www.facebook.com/baileyperformance
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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zammobhoy
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| posted on 5/12/14 at 12:45 PM |
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Yeah, Dale I did have an issue with with another diode connected to the power circuit after stupidly taking a soldering iron to the input/output
connector with the ignition still switched on!
Ah well, we live and learn
cheers,
Paul
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zammobhoy
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| posted on 15/12/14 at 01:43 PM |
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Further developments with this issue have revealed no components were actually faulty in the MS. Looking at it with the scope shows the VR signal
decreasing in voltage as the temp drops. I can compensate for this by twiddling R56 to change the comparator voltage. Can any MS guru out there give
me a guide to adjusting the pots on MS as I've not seen too much on the subject other than to turn them fully anticlockwise
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