JoelP
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| posted on 19/5/23 at 09:44 PM |
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Pinto running problems
Hi. My 2L pinto on twin dellorto carbs isn't running great. Absolutely fine pootling about, but if you flog it for a few minutes, it starts to
misfire. Sounds like overfuelling, backfiring, missing a cylinder, but fine if you keep the revs high - which makes it progressively worse when you do
go back to low revs. Any ideas what causes this? I really can't be arsed with an engine that needs tuning every year!
Thanks.
Beware! Bourettes is binfectious.
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gremlin1234
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| posted on 20/5/23 at 09:35 AM |
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check the fuel filter
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JoelP
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| posted on 20/5/23 at 10:15 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by gremlin1234
check the fuel filter
Will do thanks. It has obviously stood for a while over winter, but I don't think the fuel ever passed 3 months old.
Beware! Bourettes is binfectious.
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Schrodinger
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| posted on 21/5/23 at 07:17 AM |
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and if you haven't done already top the fuel tank up.
Keith
Aviemore
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JoelP
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| posted on 21/5/23 at 07:22 PM |
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Nothing obvious in the fuel filter and it had already had a full tank of fresh weeks ago. I made a point of not letting it stand excessively, because
it died for 7 years last time I left it all winter!
Very tempted to fit a zx12 engine, but the pinto is such a suitable engine for these cars. When it runs right....
I've given it a ludicrous dose of petrol treatment. Also had to lift the mother in law out of it today lol, but at least she loved it! 
Beware! Bourettes is binfectious.
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JoelP
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| posted on 22/5/23 at 11:57 AM |
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It's also sounding quite tappety despite having fresh oil to a good level. Could a jumped timing tooth cause this sort of problem?
Beware! Bourettes is binfectious.
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jollygreengiant
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| posted on 22/5/23 at 12:14 PM |
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It might sound a silly reply, but, Try changing the rotor arm (there is a resistor buried in it between centre and tip) also, if it has points make
sure the the little thin plastic strip between the rivet and the heel (that opens and closes the points) is not flexing and allowing random points gap
when hot.
After that I would look at a hot breakdown of the ignition leads (hold one when running, if you get a jolt then a faulty lead), then after that I
would start looking at the ignition module.
JMHO
Beware of the Goldfish in the tulip mines. The ONLY defence against them is smoking peanut butter sandwiches.
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jacko
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| posted on 29/5/23 at 06:37 PM |
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Check the jets in the carbs is it twin side carbs or down draft
555
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 30/5/23 at 03:46 PM |
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Start with checking the basics , compression ,check and adjust the tappets/ inspect the cam for wear while you’re at it, unlikely to be a jumped tooth
but not impossible so worth checking . Also check the distributor advance/ retard is working correctly, Bosche distributors in particular can and do
seize , if fitted with points probably worth fitting new along with the condenser. Motorcraft distributor it’s worth fitting a small lead between the
points screw and the baseplate securing screw to cut down voltage drop , for what they cost a rotor , cap and leads before checking and adjusting the
timing . If electronic it could possibly be the module or if aftermarket it could very well be your problem? Carb(s) should be the last thing to check
and adjust when tuning an engine
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