David Jenkins
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| posted on 6/5/03 at 07:53 AM |
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X-flow sump
Now that the car's coming together I'm starting to realise that my sump's too deep - I've probably only got around 3"
clearance (if I'm lucky). It hangs about 1.5" below the rim of the bellhousing, so I've got some room to fix the problem - but
I'm not sure my welding's up to the task (I can make strong welds, but I can't guarantee 'leak-proof'!).
So to today's question...
Is there anyone out there who can modify a x-flow sump for me, or has a shortened one for sale at a sensible price?
cheers,
David
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steve26
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| posted on 6/5/03 at 10:55 AM |
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xflow sump
hi David. just a thought - what size engine is in your Locost...1300 or 1600?
Its just that the 1600 sump is deeper than the 1300 but you can fit either to the 1300 engine.
As a guide - my Locost race car has a 3" ride height (to the chassis), but only 2"clearance to the sump. I don't have any problems
with grounding but this is obviously with stiff springs for racing / smooth track etc....is u'r car for road or race use?
As for buying shorter sumps - the only people I know are Caterham Cars (still supply large capacity baffled shallow sumps) or Vulcan engines in
Hanwell. However these are only a tiny bit shallower than the Ford 1300 original item (probably a fair bit shallower than the 1600), and aren't
exactly cheap (Caterham somewhere around £80 i think)???
If a standard 1300 sump is anygood I have one for sale if u r interested.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 6/5/03 at 12:44 PM |
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It's a 1600 (now 1660  )
I believe that the 1300 sump won't fit a 1600 - the crank rattles on it, I believe... (unless someone tells me otherwise)
I might try ringing Vulcan and Burton, just for a laugh. I won't ring Caterham - I might end up in hysterics. 
Otherwise I might try Andy Spares and see if they've got an old sump, and have a go myself - I only live a few miles from his home town of
Ipswich.
cheers,
David
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timf
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| posted on 6/5/03 at 03:33 PM |
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x flow sump
david
i have a couple of sumps u can have for nothing also have x-flow 4-2-1 large bore exhaust manifold if you don't want them, they will probably
end up in the bin
Tim
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Sheepy
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| posted on 6/5/03 at 03:44 PM |
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Sumps, oil and breathers.
I'm also looking around this subject at the moment, sorry to butt in !! I've got a shallow sump on my 1660 X-flow. The markings on the
dipstick are all over the place and I have no idea which to trust. At the moment I'm getting a small amount of gases from the crankcase breather
but no oil...I'm about to change the oil, find the correct level and then route the breathers as recommended on here from crankcase to rocker,
rocker to bottle. I have some questions which I feel could be relevant here.....If the sump is shortened (i've been told I might have an RS200
sump) how much does the quantity of oil required at oil change differ? How can I find the correct level of oil for my engine without filling it and
blowing it sky high? If I change to the new route of breathers if the oil level is too high it'll swamp the rockers with oil...this can't
be good for them surely . If I plumb the crankcase to rocker how far away should the rocker to bottle connection be from it ...does it matter? Lastly
which oil do people recommend for this type of engine, it is X-flow 1660 with all bells and whistles....normal 10-40 or go for classic engine 20-50?
Thanks all for reading...any answers / comments anyone? Gaz
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 6/5/03 at 04:23 PM |
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Hang on - you're nearby! 
I'm in Bentley - whereabouts are you? (send me a U2U) I'm very interested in the sumps (but I already have a manifold...)
cheers,
David
quote:
Originally posted by timf
david
i have a couple of sumps u can have for nothing also have x-flow 4-2-1 large bore exhaust manifold if you don't want them, they will probably
end up in the bin
Tim
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Dave Ashurst
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| posted on 6/5/03 at 06:03 PM |
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I recommend grab a spare manifold if you can.
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paulf
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| posted on 6/5/03 at 09:50 PM |
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Hi David i did this job myself a couple of weeks ago.I tried to get a 1600 sump for some time with no luck and eventually found out that the sump on
my engine was a FWD sump and not interchangable with a RWD sump.I had to cut off just over an inch, to be level with the gearbox.
I marked it and cut with a disk grinder, then sat it on a peice of 18 g steel and marked around it. I then cut it out leaving a small overlap of about
1.5 mm.
To weld it I cleaned the liner in the welder and set up to run .6 wire smoothly then welded a section at a time working around the sump until complete
, i kept hammering the edge over as i welded to ensure no gaps to burn through. After welding i filled with water and found 2 pinholes which i welded
and then left full of water overnight with no leaks.Cleaned up and painted and no leaks at all when refitted.
To get the oil level i found the original amount of oil required from a haynes book and put that amount of water in the sump, marked the level and
then adjusted the new dipstick to match.
As it was a FWD sump i had to braze a dipstick tube into the side as the original would not fit.
I also boxed in the pickup with some baffles and cut and silver soldered the pickup pipe to the correct length.
Paul.
quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
Now that the car's coming together I'm starting to realise that my sump's too deep - I've probably only got around 3"
clearance (if I'm lucky). It hangs about 1.5" below the rim of the bellhousing, so I've got some room to fix the problem - but
I'm not sure my welding's up to the task (I can make strong welds, but I can't guarantee 'leak-proof'!).
So to today's question...
Is there anyone out there who can modify a x-flow sump for me, or has a shortened one for sale at a sensible price?
cheers,
David
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 7/5/03 at 08:10 AM |
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Paul,
Tim's kindly donating a sump to my cause, so I'll be having a go quite soon - thanks for the tips.
cheers to all,
David
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