ekremors1
|
| posted on 29/9/06 at 05:31 AM |
|
|
Axle
Dear all,
I am building my own car from the Renault Clio 1.4 engine. I put the engine at the back part of the car.
My problem is ; because of the design there had been an angle occurs between axle joint points.
Is it work well?
Thank you
 
Rescued attachment AXLE.JPG
|
|
|
|
|
t.j.
|
| posted on 29/9/06 at 05:49 AM |
|
|
If you are using UJ's then it won't work
If you are using CV's then it might work.
As i'm looking at the sketch i think that the angles are to big.
Grtz Theo
|
|
|
ekremors1
|
| posted on 29/9/06 at 05:53 AM |
|
|
Joints are original. I did not make any modifications.I dont know thay are UJ's or CV's.
Also angles are not to much as I draw at the picture.
|
|
|
ch1ll1
|
| posted on 29/9/06 at 07:02 AM |
|
|
IF standard then they will be cv joints
they will take abit of an angle but not as per drawing !
can you take a picture so we can see the angles,
as i might not be as bad as you think !
also the more angle you have the shorter it becomes ( if you know what i mean )
|
|
|
ekremors1
|
| posted on 29/9/06 at 09:07 AM |
|
|
here is the picture of it. Suggestions
 
Rescued attachment DSC00040-rev1.JPG
|
|
|
NS Dev
|
| posted on 29/9/06 at 09:48 AM |
|
|
firstly move the engine forwards a bit to get the driveshaft angles better, then look at your rear shocker angles, because at the moment they are NOT
good!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
|
|
|
DarrenW
|
| posted on 29/9/06 at 09:58 AM |
|
|
Is it also possible to move the wheels back a touch if the engine cannot move forward.
As Nat says current rear shocker angles are interesting, i would guess this would have the effect of moving the wheels forward and up in bump, would
make for a very lively back end.
Are you using a torsion bar set up at the rear? Can you post some overhead pics of the back end and closer pic of rear suspension so we can see angles
and set up better. Looks like the rear suspension pivots from the very rear corners of the car so i can see where you are coming from with the shocker
angles. On reflection it may be OK. Certainly comparing it to standard 7 type rear shocker angles then they are different. Where did you get the
inspiration, from the donor?
It does look like an interesting vehicle. What will it look like finished? Do you have any sketches / renderings?
[Edited on 29/9/06 by DarrenW]
[Edited on 29/9/06 by DarrenW]
|
|
|
NS Dev
|
| posted on 29/9/06 at 10:21 AM |
|
|
another thought, you appear to be feeding all your rear suspension loads into an area of the chassis with little or no strength!!! (unless of course
the bar at the rear is the anti roll bar, in which case ignore this!)
Sorry to be critical but I am quite experienced with building transverse mid-rear engined vehicles and that is not going to work!
The way to gain strength and have rear suspension that works but it still easy to do is use trailing arms at the rear, mounted off the last transverse
chassis member forward of the engine.
Look at an autograss car or something like a GTM for inspiration.
[Edited on 29/9/06 by NS Dev]
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
|
|
|
ekremors1
|
| posted on 29/9/06 at 11:37 AM |
|
|
This system is not torsion. There is an ball bearing on it with hand made adjustable coil over.
I and my friends jump on the chassis's different point and see that suspensions are working very well.
Also I can move tyres back a little bit more. But this is not the answer.
For example when you change the suspension and spring of a normal car with race suspension and spring there is an ange occurs at the drive shaft.
Is this angle damage drive shaft of affect drive comfort??
Also I did not finished the chasis. There are alot of part to be weld at suspension and chassis. It is going to be more strong.
thank you..
 
Rescued attachment suspension.JPG
|
|
|
ekremors1
|
| posted on 29/9/06 at 11:45 AM |
|
|
Sory DarrenW I forget to answer your questions..
I have no last pictures of the suspensions. When ı take it ı can send it.
I have no sketches. But trying to shape it like similar 7.
The most different parts are the back engine and every part is hand made that is all.
|
|
|
MikeRJ
|
| posted on 29/9/06 at 12:07 PM |
|
|
If my eyes don't decieve me that is a single leading arm suspension design. Interesting choice, a trailing arm would at least have had the
advantage of being able to mount onto a strong part of the chassis.
Besides the strength of the chassis (or lack of) at the point where the arms are mounted, the actual trailing arms themselves look very narrow. Are
they capable of taking the lateral forces you get during hard cornering without deflecting?
Marlin run one of the driveshafts on their 5EXI at plainly ridiculous angles. I don't know if this has caused any problems, but seeing as
it's runing the Rover T16 Turbo engine I can't belive that CV will last long. It really put me off buying one (my wife loves this car and
wanted me to get one).
|
|
|
t.j.
|
| posted on 29/9/06 at 01:59 PM |
|
|
The uprights are held in the back in the pictures of ekremors1 
That explanes why the coilovers are in this angle.
I presume if you're driving this you will get lift at the rear.
Those angles at the marlin scares me.
2 or 3 cm off-line at rest would be my goal.
[Edited on 29/9/06 by t.j.]
|
|
|
