Northy
|
| posted on 18/1/05 at 10:01 PM |
|
|
I'm only in Malton, and know Yuk quite well, but I still don't think he'd like me looking at it to copy it! 
Graham
Website under construction. Help greatfully received as I don't really know what I'm doing! 
"If a man says something in the woods and there are no women there, is he still wrong?"
Built 2L 8 Valve Vx Powered Avon
|
|
|
|
|
skippad
|
| posted on 18/1/05 at 10:07 PM |
|
|
I could try make to a drawing from memory but it might'nt be accurate!
...it was 2yrs ago since i've seen inside!
|
|
|
NS Dev
|
| posted on 19/1/05 at 08:22 AM |
|
|
Northy, you'll be surprised how much deeper the other sumps are than the Caterham one.
Yes, you're right about the fins though, they do take up a lot od the depth, more than a few mm, think about 12mm, which is 25% of the sump
depth!
If you fabricated one the same depth as the bottom of the caterham fins, btu with a nice gentle chamfer at the front, and a couple of steel strips
along it for a bit of abrasion resistance, that shouls work ok.
The westy (+ QED etc) baffle, is basically a plate that screws into the sump just below the windage tray height, and has a hole for the pickup pipe to
go through, and a small gap all around the edge to allow the oil to drain back.
I had considered one of these but they are too deep to get the engine below the bonnet on my car, and I was not happy with the baffling.
Tha Caterham foam should actually do a superb job of baffling, as long as a thin oil is used to prevent problems with slow drain back to the pickup
pipe. The only problem is the tiny oil capacity it has, meaning even with the foam being good at de-aerating the oil, it still gets aerated!
I will use the caterham one until I can find a cheapish dry sump pump.
To make the pan I will cut up my spare cavalier steel sump, bolt it to a spare block, and tig weld in a vee shaped tray that just clears the windage
tray, and to the bottom of this weld a u-section channel, capped at each end and tapered to be deeper at the front and back, and put 1/2" bsp
hydraulic fittings welded into the side of the u-channel at each end.............if that makes any sense at all.
|
|
|
Northy
|
| posted on 19/1/05 at 09:20 PM |
|
|
That makes perfect sense NSDev! Sounds like a good plan, if you find two cheap pumps let me know!
I'll do a steel sump over winter. One other improvement will be on the sealing of it I think, as I've always had a small oil leak with the
Chaterham one 
Ned, are you reading this? Have you got any pictures of the baffling inside the Westy sump?
Cheers
Graham
Website under construction. Help greatfully received as I don't really know what I'm doing!
"If a man says something in the woods and there are no women there, is he still wrong?"
Built 2L 8 Valve Vx Powered Avon
|
|
|
Stu16v
|
| posted on 19/1/05 at 10:55 PM |
|
|
Westfield 16v sump...
SBD sump...
HTH Stu.
[Edited on 19/1/05 by Stu16v]
Dont just build it.....make it!
|
|
|
ned
|
| posted on 20/1/05 at 09:26 AM |
|
|
sbd and qed sumps are one in the same, mine was from westfield...
I've had to cut a bit off the baffle plate to get the dipstick through..
From memory its 100mm deep
Ned.
[Edited on 20/1/05 by ned]
beware, I've got yellow skin
|
|
|
Stu16v
|
| posted on 20/1/05 at 06:12 PM |
|
|
quote:
I've had to cut a bit off the baffle plate to get the dipstick through..
(Bit late for Ned but) Err, just shorten the dipstick! You will still have the 'MAX' mark, and finishes at a mid point between MIN and
MAX. The MIN mark is irrelevant because you dont want to be running it that low...
Dont just build it.....make it!
|
|
|
Northy
|
| posted on 20/1/05 at 06:47 PM |
|
|
Is hat baffle sufficient? Or could it be improved?
Ned, do you know the distance between the top lip of teh sump and the baffle plate?
Cheers
Graham
Website under construction. Help greatfully received as I don't really know what I'm doing!
"If a man says something in the woods and there are no women there, is he still wrong?"
Built 2L 8 Valve Vx Powered Avon
|
|
|
NS Dev
|
| posted on 21/1/05 at 09:11 AM |
|
|
Northy, think I know what you are asking for, if I were you I'd put the baffle as close to the underside of the windage tray as poss, 3mm below
perhaps?
|
|
|
ned
|
| posted on 21/1/05 at 10:04 AM |
|
|
With regards to the windage tray, my memory is hazy, but i seem to remember when fitting arp bolts on another xe that they foul the windage tray, am I
making this up or is this the case?
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
|
|
|
NS Dev
|
| posted on 21/1/05 at 02:32 PM |
|
|
I have heard this, but done it twice myself with no problems of fouling, so just check when you do it, it's easy for the tray to get bent and
foul the bolts I would assume.
|
|
|
fastavatar.jpg){kind=avatar}
