Guinness
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| posted on 7/1/09 at 06:59 PM |
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Plumbing Specification Help?
I'm in the middle of my loft conversion at the minute. I was going to pressurise both the central heating system and the hot water system to
allow me to extend the c/h into the loft and provide h/w to the en-suite, but by the time I'd priced up all the kit, and the complexity of doing
it myself, I'm thinking I might as well change to a combi!
I've written the following spec, which I'd be grateful if any of the resident plumbers could have a read over and make any suggestions as
to errors or omissions? Before I invite a few firms to site visit / quote.
Cheers
Mike
"Mid Terrace Victorian House, 2 beds. Double glazed windows, insulated loft and floors, empty cavity walls.
Existing System
1 no Gas Fired, Wall Mounted, Ideal Standard FF250 Boiler, installed in the Kitchen. In excess of 10 years old. Flue straight through 9” brickwork
wall into yard. Regularly serviced.
Electronic Timer, 7 Day Programmable.
13 amp Fused spur adjacent to boiler.
Hot Water Cylinder located in airing cupboard in Bathroom (above kitchen). Insulated, but no thermostat, no immersion heater.
Central heating pump located in airing cupboard in Bathroom.
No thermostatic or electronic diverter valve, existing manual diverter valve in airing cupboard.
Hot water header tank located in loft above Bathroom.
Expansion tank for central heating located in loft above Bathroom.
Radiators as follows:-
Lounge (new)
Dining Room (new)
Hall (new)
Bathroom (new)
Back Bedroom (new)
Front Bedroom (5 yrs old)
(No radiators in downstairs cloak, utility room, kitchen)
(No radiator in upstairs hall or existing loft)
Hot Water supplies:-
WHB in Downstairs Cloak
Sink in Utility
(Washing Machine Cold Fill Only)
(Dishwasher Cold Fill Only)
Tap in Kitchen
Bath in Bathroom
WHB in Bathroom
(Electric Shower)
Proposed System
Attend site, drain down existing c/h system and h/w system.
Attend site, isolate, disconnect, carefully remove existing wall mounted boiler, dispose of same.
Supply and install new wall mounted condensing combination boiler, sized to suit application. Grade A Rated Energy Efficiency. Minimum 3 year
warrantee.
Supply and install flue extension kit externally, to clear carport roof.
Supply and install new electronic programmable timer in kitchen.
Supply and install new electronic thermostat in dining room.
Supply and install TRV’s to following ground floor radiators, lounge, dining and hall.
Alter and adapt existing cold water feed, filling loop, hot water and central heating pipework to suit new boiler.
Extend cold water feed to new supply to loft conversion en-suite.
Extend hot water feed to new supply to loft conversion en-suite.
Extend central heating system to new loft conversion, radiators as follows, 1 no to bedroom, 1 no to walk in wardrobe, 1 no to en-suite bathroom.
(Allow for these additional rads when sizing the boiler).
Power flush existing radiators / pipework.
Supply and dose central heating system with corrosion inhibitor.
Re-fill system, pressure test, bleed, certify and leave working."
And I guess if anyone wants to quote for the work that would be great too! Needs to be installed and completed by end of Feb. Or offer any guideline
prices.
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ruskino80
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| posted on 7/1/09 at 07:05 PM |
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what size pipe feeds your current boiler in gas,new combi will require 22 mm to within 1m of boiler.
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thegasmen
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| posted on 7/1/09 at 07:05 PM |
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plumbing
Hi Mike
We would usually charge approx 1850 to remove tanks and cylinder and fit new boiler ect and also to fit wireless remote digital room thermostat
including thermostats on radiators and vat.
Regards Michael
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Guinness
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| posted on 7/1/09 at 07:17 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ruskino80
what size pipe feeds your current boiler in gas,new combi will require 22 mm to within 1m of boiler.
22mm comes out of the meter, disappears under the floor. By the time it gets to the boiler it seems to have reduced down to 15mm  Not sure where
the change is, and without removing half the kitchen units / tiles I'm not likely to! 
Gasmen, would you travel!  Also roughly how long to do the job? I don't really want to be without heating / hot water for very long at the
moment!
Cheers
Mike
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MikeR
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| posted on 7/1/09 at 07:28 PM |
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i'd define what carefully means - ie "yeah mate, i was careful, didn't want to fall over and hit my head when i yanked it and half
your plaster from the wall"
Also, mate used to be a builder and said despite every plumber claiming it, none ever filled the system with anything but water. they saved a few quid
that way and you won't know till 10 years + down the line when the warranty is worthless.
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thegasmen
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| posted on 7/1/09 at 08:03 PM |
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plumbing
Im Afraid
Its a bit to far for us to travel where in leeds just make sure they fit the system to the benchmark standard which comes with the boiler instructions
and it states in there they have to put down which inhibitor they have put in more importantantley they should flush the system properley afterwoods
and you want that all important corgi notification which states when you sell the house that you have an efficient boiler registered at that
property.
cheers Mick
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thegasmen
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| posted on 7/1/09 at 08:05 PM |
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plumbing
forgot to say should take approx one to one and a half days.
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Guinness
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| posted on 7/1/09 at 08:09 PM |
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Thanks Mick!
My regular plumber is based in Wakefield! But he doesn't want to travel either!
Looks like I'm going to have to try friends and family to find a recommended plumber.
Mike
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adam1985
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| posted on 7/1/09 at 08:47 PM |
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yeah make sure they fill in the benchmark also the inhibitors and flush will come with a sticker make sure that is fitted you aint got much chance of
3 year warantee most come with one some have 2 year and a couple do five year price wise its hard to say you can get a cheap a rated boiler for 4-5
hundred or get something good like a bosch for 900-1200 time wise it all depends who your get weather they can throw 3-4 men at the job and just blitz
it or if its a one man band then it will take longer
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will121
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| posted on 7/1/09 at 09:02 PM |
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in some ways its better to not specify to much detail apart from any specific items you would like, work as an output specification in that you want
supply install, test, commision and set to work an A rated combi boiler to sized to provide the requirements of: provide details of existing house and
your proposed alterations, complying with CORGI (currently) benchmark standards and current Building regulations (this will dictate controls and
electrical standards)
Get them to provide detailed quote telling you what they are providing for the price for you to review with others.
This way helps to avoid you specifing and them pricing to your specification and later comming back with additions which you didnt ask for but are
required for certification,
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DarrenW
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| posted on 7/1/09 at 09:28 PM |
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I had a guy do me a combi swap about a year ago. Fitted a good Vaillant and remote stat etc. He isnt the cheapest but was good. Probs a good time for
haggling at the mo.
TBH honest only reason he wasnt the cheapest is cos the boiler wasnt cheap, but he prefers them as he never needs to do a warranty job.
Can let you have number if interested. He is based in Aycliffe.
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Guinness
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| posted on 7/1/09 at 09:53 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by DarrenW
Can let you have number if interested. He is based in Aycliffe.
Yeah that would be great thanks Darren!
Mike
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DarrenW
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| posted on 7/1/09 at 10:14 PM |
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Just texted it over to you. Please tell him where you got it from. He did my boiler swap at Lindisfarne Close in Bishop.
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