chris_smith
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| posted on 12/1/09 at 10:38 AM |
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Oils?
hi guys/gals just a quick one really, im running or will be shortly a xflow 1300, type 9 box and mk1 axle, can you all please let me know the best
oils for each in your experiences
and where is best to get them from with costs if possible
best regards
chris
The secret of success is to know something nobody else knows."
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BenB
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| posted on 12/1/09 at 10:59 AM |
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The cheapest cos you're going to get through a lot of it with a Xflow (total loss oil system and all that  ).
Get something fairly cheap and sticky. A modern oil will not offer the proper protection and will go all over the engine bay even quicker!!!
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 12/1/09 at 11:05 AM |
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I only use GTX Magnatec 15W-40 on the normal cars
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andylancaster3000
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| posted on 12/1/09 at 11:06 AM |
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I would say your best bet would be a good quality 20w50 in an engine of that era. A good place to start is with the valvoline 20w50 VR1 mineral stuff.
Very good oil IMO, always seems to maintain a good pressure how ever hot it gets. It's also a reasonable price considering what you get charged
for other 'racing' oils.
Having said that I've only used it in a CVH so it might be best to see what other x-flow owners use!
[Edited on 12/1/09 by andylancaster3000]
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britishtrident
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| posted on 12/1/09 at 11:27 AM |
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10w/40 especially for winter use
20w/50 causes starting problems with Xflos as soon as the weather gets a bit nippy.
The axle needs EP90 or EP80 or a multigrade oil that covers that range for example EP75/90. The EP (extreme pressure) bit is important it
indicates it is an oil suitable for hypoid gears.
[Edited on 12/1/09 by britishtrident]
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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nick205
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| posted on 12/1/09 at 11:29 AM |
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Millers has been recomended on here for older engines not sure it's that cheap though.
For my Pinto I use bog basic mineral oil from the motor factors (15w50 I think), a genuine Motorcraft filter and change every 1500 miles (it does get
a good pasting.
IMHO genuine filters and regular changes are the key to good engine life.
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robertst
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| posted on 12/1/09 at 01:40 PM |
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so synthetic is not an good choice then?
im saying this because mineral oil is starting to become a little bit rare where i come from...
some months ago i chose to buy a big can of mobil 1 0W40 and thank god i didn't put it in yet because i know it'll leak like water through
a colander.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 12/1/09 at 02:54 PM |
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A part synth is always OK
Although it wouldn't be my choice for an Xflo fully synth 0w/40 shouldn't give problems unless the engine has bore/piston/pistonring
problems or bad valve guide wear.
As far as I can recall Xflows have no natural rubber seals, however lets face it most Xflos have bore and valve guide wear .
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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carpmart
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| posted on 12/1/09 at 09:00 PM |
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I've always been very happy with Valvoline Racing VR1 oil in my pinto. It's 20w50 and I would have thought it perfect for the crossflow.
You only live once - make the most of it!
Radical Clubsport, Kwaker motor
'94 MX5 MK1, 1.8
F10 M5 - 600bhp Daily Hack 
Range Rover Sport - Wife's Car
Mercedes A class - Son's Car
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britishtrident
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| posted on 13/1/09 at 09:00 AM |
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In my youth I spent a large chunk of time jump starting xllo Cortinas because they wouldn't start as soon as the weather turned cold. In
those days Fords had a really bad reputaton for non starting, Using a 10w/40 oil in place of 20w/50 oil made a big difference.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 13/1/09 at 07:24 PM |
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Valvoline VRI . Modern electronics and pre engaged starters have made starting a lot more reliable . Any thing thinner will leak. Valvoline VRI will
also give better oil pressure and consumption
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Amsoil
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| posted on 14/1/09 at 01:08 AM |
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Best oil is as per my username.
Used it in the engine of my Le Mans car for over 3 years without changing it (No I'm not barking , the oil was analysed after each race). The
gearbox oil was put in in 2001 and will be changed now as the CWP is out of life and the box must be fully rebuilt with new parts.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 14/1/09 at 08:45 AM |
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I use whatever brand-name 20W50 I can find - and keep my battery on a 'maintenance' trickle charger when the car's not in use. This,
combined with Megajolt ignition and properly set-up bike carbs, means that the car will start on the 1st or 2nd attempt, even when the weather's
sub-zero.
It is a pig to start when the battery's not 100% though.
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