Hugh_
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posted on 17/2/09 at 08:45 PM |
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Pinto cam identification
I've been having a look at my BV head (44.4 inlets, 38.1 outlets) which came with the car when I bought it prior to fitting. It is purported to
have previously seen 170hp (haha) but I can't find any reference to the cam.
It is stamped K355-C on the shaft, and KCGP1 and RB on the end. Any clues?
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vinny1275
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posted on 17/2/09 at 09:00 PM |
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At a rough guess, I would say Kent Cams GP1 - Still in their brochure, not sure if the specs would have changed since yours was new (probably not) -
would be worth giving them a ring, they should be able to get the tech details for you....
HTH
Vicne
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deezee
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posted on 17/2/09 at 09:04 PM |
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Sounds like a Kent Cam GP1 for the 2.0L Pinto. They call it a Race Camshaft.
Application -- Race
Power Band -- 3500-8000
Cam Lift(mm) -- 7.51
Valve Lift(mm) -- I 12.49 E 12.14
Duration -- I 313 Deg E 311 Deg
Timing -- 48/85 85/45
Full Lift -- 108 Deg
VC (mm) -- I 0.20 E 0.25
LTDC -- I 3.43mm
Required Parts -- CF36 / VS42
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24vseven
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posted on 17/2/09 at 09:06 PM |
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yes i would agree check here
http://www.kentcams.com/
if you pu in gp1 and search click on one of the options it gives you the spec
damn to slow lol
[Edited on 17/2/09 by 24vseven]
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Hugh_
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posted on 17/2/09 at 09:08 PM |
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Ok cool, does anyone know what you need to do to get a 2.1 to 8k rpm more than once?
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24vseven
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posted on 17/2/09 at 09:23 PM |
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in a word lots
i stand to be corrected here but i think you need uprated rods and pistons arp bolts double dowl flywheel ligten and balance and watch the clearance
on the valve to piston if the head has been skimed
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mookaloid
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posted on 17/2/09 at 09:31 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by Hugh_
Ok cool, does anyone know what you need to do to get a 2.1 to 8k rpm more than once?
Depends on which bottom end you have. if it's a 205 injection block then you should be ok with ARP bolts and lightening and dynamic balancing.
however if the head is a good one you don't need to go to 8K to get 170 bhp - just over 7K should be enough and 170 BHP is not a silly figure
for a pinto if well built.
Cheers
Mark
"That thing you're thinking - it wont be that."
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MikeRJ
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posted on 17/2/09 at 10:26 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by mookaloid
Depends on which bottom end you have. if it's a 205 injection block then you should be ok with ARP bolts and lightening and dynamic balancing.
however if the head is a good one you don't need to go to 8K to get 170 bhp - just over 7K should be enough and 170 BHP is not a silly figure
for a pinto if well built.
The cam only starts making power at 3500 RPM; having a bottom end only capable to 7000RPM means you suffer the idle and driveability issues of a race
cam but don't get the full benefits of it.
If this is for a road engine I'd definitely consider getting a milder cam.
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mark chandler
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posted on 17/2/09 at 10:44 PM |
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You could soften the cam by running it around 7 degrees advanced which would rein in the power and little and make it more useable.
Throttle bodies would also help control it a little over large carbs, as the car is light you could be okay but I suspect a pain to drive on the open
road, its really a track only cam.
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Hugh_
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posted on 18/2/09 at 12:02 AM |
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Thanks again for the replies guys. It is a 205 block with balanced crank and lightened flywheel, and as it's got them I assume ARP bolts but I
will drop the sump at the first oil change and check. It's on Dellorto 45s and will have a megajolt.
As I'm coming from a fireblade which didn't have much below 5 and ran out of clock at 11 I will give it a go with this cam, it will get a
mix of road and track use. I love the sound of lumpy idles though I've never had to live with one.
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mookaloid
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posted on 18/2/09 at 12:28 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by MikeRJ
quote: Originally posted by mookaloid
Depends on which bottom end you have. if it's a 205 injection block then you should be ok with ARP bolts and lightening and dynamic balancing.
however if the head is a good one you don't need to go to 8K to get 170 bhp - just over 7K should be enough and 170 BHP is not a silly figure
for a pinto if well built.
The cam only starts making power at 3500 RPM; having a bottom end only capable to 7000RPM means you suffer the idle and driveability issues of a race
cam but don't get the full benefits of it.
If this is for a road engine I'd definitely consider getting a milder cam.
I Agree I used a FR33 and got over 170BHP at just over 7K - power tailed off by 7.5K so no point in going to 8K
"That thing you're thinking - it wont be that."
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